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DARKSOFT CPS1 Multi - Support thread

I would actually like to find JP manuals for every game and confirm all my settings against that. I figure that's the region where the most testing/balancing happened, so to me it's the most "correct". It's all preference though, like when I put a second multi in my SF2:WW Dynamo cab I'll use the US defaults from those manuals.

@TMF68k can you supply any more Japanese manual photos showing dips for other CPS1 games? Anything you have would be a big help, or if you know a Japanese website that has this data.
 
S-S-S-S-S-S-S-S-S-S-S-S-S-S-S-S-U-C-C-E-S-S!!!

I moved the RESET and QSOUND wires so they are sandwiched between the top of the A-Board and the bottom of the Multi. Once again, done mainly for cosmetic reasons and the rest is for functional value (so the exposed wires aren't snagged during cab installation, PCB rotation, storage, etc). Anyhow, everything is still functional and working as it should. The solder points are described in these previous posts:
Here is a snap of the mod where the top of the A-Board and the bottom of the Multi are separated like pages of a book. NOTE: I used a yellow female/female dupont wire for the RESET connection:

WireMod_Sandwich.jpg


Here is a close-up pic of the header with the wires connected to the new header:

WireMod_Closeup.jpg


Here is a pic of the header that I used on the left and the original header after I desoldered/removed it on the right. NOTE: The longer side of the new header is fitted through the PCB and soldered onto the solder side of the multi.

WireMod_Header.jpg


And here is a pic of the microSD/header area. There is plenty of clearance for the vertical dupont connector between the boards.

WireMod_InBetween.jpg


This mod isn't official or even necessary, so perform this at your own risk.
 
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Oh snap I like it!
I don't think I'd bother to move the pins to the bottom of the multi tho.
I still hope the dual crystal PCB comes with two solder pads to consolidate the three separate wires into a single 3-wire IDC cable (1 cable connecting these two central points).
 
jassin000 said:
Oh snap I like it!
Click to expand...
Thanks brutha!
jassin000 said:
I don't think I'd bother to move the pins to the bottom of the multi tho.
Click to expand...
Well, the decision here was if part of the reason is to prevent snagging, might as well take the extra step to sheath the wires between the boards. I had a 2.54mm spacing header with longer leads, so I used it. But I'd imagine you can just desolder the one that comes with the multi and resolder it on the reverse side too.
jassin000 said:
I still hope the dual crystal PCB comes with two solder pads to consolidate the three separate wires into a single 3-wire IDC cable (1 cable connecting these two central points).
Click to expand...
I think this is a great idea! One can then just use a 3-position dupont wire to the header. C-c-c-c-lean city, baby!
 
Wraith said:
I don't understand your post can you please clarify? Also, your scan of the JP manual doesn't seem to have any indication as to what factory defaults are.
Click to expand...
I wrote that the default is only on 8 of A.
The manual default is written in sans-serif.
 
I just didn't want to desolder the DIPs, rather a overlay PCB with a pinheadder on it to move switchs off the motherboard.
Will be ordering soon as @Mitsurugi-w opens up the sales thread. ;)

Getting this issue resolved is tops on my list, as I feel this is the only thing holding the multi back.
Its basically the greatest multi EVER IMO, we only need to solve this minor inconvenient problem.
 
jassin000 said:
I just didn't want to desolder the DIPs, rather a overlay PCB with a pinheadder on it to move switchs off the motherboard.
Will be ordering soon as @Mitsurugi-w opens up the sales thread. ;)

Getting this issue resolved is tops on my list, as I feel this is the only thing holding the multi back.
Its basically the greatest multi EVER IMO, we only need to solve this minor inconvenient problem.
Click to expand...
Agreed. Was thinking of a daughter board, similar to what Mitsurugi showed but without the ribbon cable. Just directly to the bottom of the mainboard. But I may desolder and replace as well. Not in any rush.
 
Even though the outer row of pins are not needed electrically, I wonder if it would be better to be able to solder those pins for extra stability.
 
the Goat said:
Even though the outer row of pins are not needed electrically, I wonder if it would be better to be able to solder those pins for extra stability.
Click to expand...
Not necessary. I solder a ground on both sides of the top row. It's not going anywhere.

Also, if you solder all of those too, good luck removing it later if you want to. :P
 
CPS1.x Multi 8)

Looks great @Mitsurugi-w remote PCB is a little big but I think the community should be able to mod up the LCD case to contain this as well.
Could you perhaps get the board measurements over to @APDWaldo6 so he could start working on it?
 
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