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DARKSOFT CPS1 Multi - Support thread

So I was thinking my Pang 3 problems came from DIP settings, but even with all off (verified in SF test menu) the balls are really slow. In the service menu memory test, it fails the EEPROM test (red NG). Also in the service menu, if you go to the game settings (confusingly called DIP switch config even though it's a soft menu) it kinda automatically gives itself some really weird settings and you need to manually set them to defaults and save. Nothing seems to affect the slow balls though. Anyone else experience this? Is it just a natural incompatibility due to not using the Mitchell board?

EDIT: Ok, so I just solved this. Problem was, I was testing on my supergun with only one player controls available. The key is to enter the test menu and set defaults using the default setting option and not by manually setting each line item to default. Problem is, the default all setting option requires P1 and P2 shot to activate, so it was not possible on the supergun. Once I got it in my cab and used this option, the game worked normally with correctly accelerated baaallls
 
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TMF68k said:
Are there any titles that might not work?
Is the PANG3 slowness issue another cause?
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Sorry for the misunderstanding, Pang 3 slowdown for me was caused because I did not first reset to defaults in the service menu, nothing to do with a long or short board
 
Darksoft said:
Our experience is that only some of these long boards work. Let's see the feedback of people...
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A working board looks like this.


DSC_5437.JPGDSC_5438.JPGDSC_5440.JPGDSC_5439.JPG
 
@TMF68k thanks for the pictures. Interesting that a long board has a 12MHz "DASH" Oscillator.
 
The long A board and the newer short A boards both have 12 x HN53461. They are just in a different configuration.
 
So I’m pretty stumped, I can’t seem to get this thing working at all. Followed directions, triple checked everything, verified my A board works 100%, tried multiple C 92641C-1 boards that I unmodified according to the directions ( disconnected bodge wire from +5, soldered to ground ) and here’s what I get. Board comes up, lcd screen fires up, I can scroll through and select game, it erases and flashes (while flashing left side of screen fills with green lines ) then just a dead black screen, not even sound or garbled graphics, like the cpu instantly crashes. Dips all off, same result on every game. Any ideas?
 
TravistyOJ said:
So I’m pretty stumped, I can’t seem to get this thing working at all. Followed directions, triple checked everything, verified my A board works 100%, tried multiple C 92641C-1 boards that I unmodified according to the directions ( disconnected bodge wire from +5, soldered to ground ) and here’s what I get. Board comes up, lcd screen fires up, I can scroll through and select game, it erases and flashes (while flashing left side of screen fills with green lines ) then just a dead black screen, not even sound or garbled graphics, like the cpu instantly crashes. Dips all off, same result on every game. Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Do you have the reset wire connected? You shouldn't see anything on the screen while the multi is flashing.
 
TravistyOJ said:
So I’m pretty stumped, I can’t seem to get this thing working at all. Followed directions, triple checked everything, verified my A board works 100%, tried multiple C 92641C-1 boards that I unmodified according to the directions ( disconnected bodge wire from +5, soldered to ground ) and here’s what I get. Board comes up, lcd screen fires up, I can scroll through and select game, it erases and flashes (while flashing left side of screen fills with green lines ) then just a dead black screen, not even sound or garbled graphics, like the cpu instantly crashes. Dips all off, same result on every game. Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Hmm, can't this be a card problem (if everything else has been checked)? You wouldn't have prepared it on a Mac?
 
Roch said:
Hmm, can't this be a card problem (if everything else has been checked)? You wouldn't have prepared it on a Mac?
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Oh, I did prepare it on a Mac, is that no good? I need to find a PC, or there is a specific MacOS program to use?
 
TravistyOJ said:
Oh, I did prepare it on a Mac, is that no good? I need to find a PC, or there is a specific MacOS program to use?
Click to expand...
It may seem silly but I advise you to prepare your microSD on Windows, even for the decompression of the archive and formatting (all the steps). If you test, let me know.
 
Roch said:
It may seem silly but I advise you to prepare your microSD on Windows, even for the decompression of the archive and formatting (all the steps). If you test, let me know.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I’ll try that. Got an old PC I can get running, will try it out tomorrow
 
I wanted to bring up a problem I had. I first tested everything with a "normal" mobo. Everything was working then I swap with a repaired mobo. It seemed to work so I installed everything on it (with addons). This is a typical Chinese repair / overhaul board:

CPS1-modo-repair.jpg


It works perfectly with authentic games and conversions but there are audio issues with the multi... On some games (notably Ghouls'n Ghosts and Strider) the music cuts out after a few moments of play. Nothing serious, I quickly identified the origin of the failure but my Remote Dip was soldered on it and it's painful. I'm ill-equipped for that and I damaged the Remote connections by desoldering (fortunately the mobo is fine). I asked Mitsurugi if I could reorder the soldering part (waiting for his answer).

So, if you have this kind of A-board, test everything before you start ||.
 
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