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DARKSOFT CPS1 Multi - Support thread

Roch said:
So, if you have this kind of A-board, test everything before you start ||.
Click to expand...
I have a couple of these boards, all of which have either lost sound entirely or have other issues. I have never successfully rebuilt or repaired them, nor have I ever figured out what the hell the modifications they did are intended to accomplish. The whole thing with the diode in the capacitor spot is just weird... my original Chinese 32-in1 CPS1 had one of these, but I swapped it out for a clean DASH board and am now using the same for my Darksoft multi.
 
Roch said:
I wanted to bring up a problem I had. I first tested everything with a "normal" mobo. Everything was working then I swap with a repaired mobo. It seemed to work so I installed everything on it (with addons). This is a typical Chinese repair / overhaul board:

CPS1-modo-repair.jpg


It works perfectly with authentic games and conversions but there are audio issues with the multi... On some games (notably Ghouls'n Ghosts and Strider) the music cuts out after a few moments of play. Nothing serious, I quickly identified the origin of the failure but my Remote Dip was soldered on it and it's painful. I'm ill-equipped for that and I damaged the Remote connections by desoldering (fortunately the mobo is fine). I asked Mitsurugi if I could reorder the soldering part (waiting for his answer).

So, if you have this kind of A-board, test everything before you start ||.
Click to expand...
My eyes hurt when I see that kind of work.
 
Arf, I got this card recently and everything worked fine on it. Even a conversion of Ghouls'n Ghosts...

Darksoft said:
My eyes hurt when I see that kind of work.
Click to expand...

Of course, it's not great, it was to replace a card that died (sent to repair - typical PPU failure)...
 
Mitsurugi-w said:
I can't say this often but I agree with @jassin000. Anything Apple deserves the trash bin.
Click to expand...
jassin000 said:
Mac's like to write all sorts of wacky hidden files and descriptors to media that cause problems.
The solution is to trash it for a Windows/Linux PC. :)
Click to expand...
Thanks so much, this was my issue. Rewrote SD on Windows and it’s working now!
 
I am now experiencing issues with Street Fighter II, CE, and HF. The original ROM board was for SFII:CE (USA), and all the dips are set at the same as it was before I installed the multi. The music intermittently disappears in all three of the games above, then returns later on at some point. I am using one of the multi-packs from that archive site that contain files for all of the DarkSoft Multis, with the USA CPS1 pack inside being dated 6/4/22. I did not have this issue with the original SFII:CE ROM board installed. Also, sometimes after I flash CE back from some other game, after it reboots, all of the characters, texts, etc. are solid red until I actually power down completely and then power back up. Then the colors are correct. Power cycling does nothing for the sound issue, though.
Both wires installed correctly, the PAL is installed, and the soundboard is an FPGA variant (with a qsound.bin placed in the root of the SD card). The SD was bought with the multi from HighScoreSaves, and I moved all files onto with a Windows 10 PC. I downloaded the ROMset again, formatted the SD card, then copied the files fresh onto it, but still have the same result.
Sorry if this question has been asked already, but, this thread is 24 pages long.


Edit to add: C board is a 90631C-5 which had been modded very cleanly to be battery-less. I undid the mod, checked to make sure there was no connection to 5V and verified that the pins in question were now connected to ground with a DMM. A board is a DASH.
 
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Finally got round to this. I find my A board (88617A-7B) and C board (90628-C-1 MERCS, no battery support) are incompatible with the multi. Possibly the ebay seller I bought this from played me like a fiddle. A shame as the boards are pristine. So, um, does anyone have multi-compatible boards they would be willing to sell me? I really don't want to buy from ebay again TBH :-(

Please PM me if you have anything.

Another QQ- do the 2 wires have to be installed, or will it work ok without?

Thanks guys.
 
Someone mentioned a similar projects and turned out to be the microSD or the dip switches. Which microsd are you using?
 
Darksoft said:
Someone mentioned a similar projects and turned out to be the microSD or the dip switches. Which microsd are you using?
Click to expand...

Is this reply for me? If so, it's an 8GB card that was sold to me with the multi from HSS. I don't know what brand it is...will have to go check in a bit.
Also, DIP switches were the exact same as they were when the original ROM board was in place as a SFII:CE (USA). Should they be something different?
 
obitus1990 said:
Is this reply for me? If so, it's an 8GB card that was sold to me with the multi from HSS. I don't know what brand it is...will have to go check in a bit.
Also, DIP switches were the exact same as they were when the original ROM board was in place as a SFII:CE (USA). Should they be something different?
Click to expand...
Yes, reply was for you. Dip Switches should be OK if the game was exactly SFII:CE. Can you try with a different microSD? It must be SDHC, the smaller the better and it should be original, otherwise weird things happen with timeouts, etc.
 
Darksoft said:
Yes, reply was for you. Dip Switches should be OK if the game was exactly SFII:CE. Can you try with a different microSD? It must be SDHC, the smaller the better and it should be original, otherwise weird things happen with timeouts, etc.
Click to expand...

It is a Sandisk HC (with Roman numeral I after it) followed by Class 4 -- 8Gb.
I don't have anything else this small, unfortunately. All my other Micro SD cards are much larger capacity SDXC.
 
obitus1990 said:
It is a Sandisk HC (with Roman numeral I after it) followed by Class 4 -- 8Gb.
I don't have anything else this small, unfortunately. All my other Micro SD cards are much larger capacity SDXC.
Click to expand...
Can you borrow some other microSD from Mister or any other place?
 
Roch said:
I wanted to bring up a problem I had. I first tested everything with a "normal" mobo. Everything was working then I swap with a repaired mobo. It seemed to work so I installed everything on it (with addons). This is a typical Chinese repair / overhaul board:

CPS1-modo-repair.jpg


It works perfectly with authentic games and conversions but there are audio issues with the multi... On some games (notably Ghouls'n Ghosts and Strider) the music cuts out after a few moments of play. Nothing serious, I quickly identified the origin of the failure but my Remote Dip was soldered on it and it's painful. I'm ill-equipped for that and I damaged the Remote connections by desoldering (fortunately the mobo is fine). I asked Mitsurugi if I could reorder the soldering part (waiting for his answer).

So, if you have this kind of A-board, test everything before you start ||.
Click to expand...
I bought one of these A boards cheap and put world warrior B+C on it. It works fine. The original world warrior A board is mint and in the multi works perfect with it. No way I'd put the beautiful multi with that rough looking hacked A board.

Where did these hacked A boards come from and why is the hack job so bad on them? They seem to be everywhere. I bought mine from yanton. I'd guess it's old cps1.5 stock.

Has anyone stripped out the hacked parts and rebuilt the audio section clean?
 
Darksoft said:
Can you borrow some other microSD from Mister or any other place?
Click to expand...

I pulled a 4 GB from my Mister and another 4 GB from a Rasberry Pi (one a Sandisk and the other a Panasonic, both SDHC). Same results. The music drops out, but, sound effects continue to work, just as with the 8GB that came with the multi.
 
rtw said:
@obitus1990 please share a picture of your A board.
Click to expand...

Do you need to see more than this (from the eBay listing where I purchased it)? If so, I'm going to have to go unscrew it from the cabinet and disassemble the whole multi to get anything further.
There is a number on the bottom of the board from the listing as well, 89626A-4 if that helps.
 

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