snakeGrave
Professional
Yeah, wiring that to gnd I was able to get everything running fine. Thank you!
MITSU CPS1.X Multi Dual Crystal
- Thread starter Mitsurugi-w
- Start date
LittleMegaGamer
Professional
Guys,
What nozzle diameter of your desoldering tool have you used to desolder the Crystal 12000mhz?
I used a basic desolder tool with a 2mm nozzle diameter that is definitely too big for this job and I wasn't able to desolder the 12000mhz.
What nozzle diameter of your desoldering tool have you used to desolder the Crystal 12000mhz?
I used a basic desolder tool with a 2mm nozzle diameter that is definitely too big for this job and I wasn't able to desolder the 12000mhz.
selu
Student
It is better to use a slightly finer one, and plenty of Flux to make it easier to remove the tin.
LittleMegaGamer
Professional
I will as I had no luck with the 2mm one...
What nozzle diameter have you used?
Have you got it off on the first attempt?
selu
Student
For me, a 1.5 mm tip is best. Although I'd say the optimal working range is 1-1.5 mm. I got It off on the first attempt without problem.
LittleMegaGamer
Professional
Accidentaly, I broke the pad where I suppose to solder the Reset jumper.
Do you think that it will work as well if I solder the Reset jumper at the pin on the back of the board? (like it is for the normal Multi)
I don't know if that solder pad worked as joint point too.
I will try it as soon I have time again to work on, but if someone knows more about it will be very useful... Tx
Do you think that it will work as well if I solder the Reset jumper at the pin on the back of the board? (like it is for the normal Multi)
I don't know if that solder pad worked as joint point too.
I will try it as soon I have time again to work on, but if someone knows more about it will be very useful... Tx
selu
Student
No problem. First, you need to restore the trace continuity by resoldering the pad. Once resoldered, check the continuity of the entire trace (each end). Second, you can proceed to install the Reset. You can solder the Reset jumper at the pin on the back of the board like Multi, yes. It's the same process. Good luck.
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LittleMegaGamer
Professional
Thank you for the tip.
Unfortunately, I coudn't restore the pad... I just made the thing worse... very disappointed... maybe my first arcade project that went wrong, as I think I damage the board...
My Crystal 12000mhz was also very stuck... I bought a desoldering gun to do this project, but it didn't come off nicely... anyway, maybe I did it in bad time and I should leave my nice Multi like it was...
I have another A board, but problably I will just install the just Multi in the normal way...
selu
Student
The damage doesn't seem too serious. Simply joining the broken section of the trace should be enough. Soldering a small wire to both ends of the trace would suffice (or resoldering the pad with a single solder point, as I mentioned, if possible). As for desoldering the crystal, it can sometimes be difficult because it's an electronic component that dissipates a lot of heat. A good quality desoldering tool is necessary to remove the crystal. If you're not comfortable repairing the PCB yourself, it's best to find someone on the forum who can fix it for you. The CPS1 is a legendary arcade board, and it deserves to be treated with the utmost care. Good luck!
RepairGuy95
Champion
Chipquik is what I use to pull components now.
I know it takes more time and cleaning it out with wick takes forever but its worth it for arcade pcbs.
To fix that you'll need to jump the broken trace point to point via wire.
I also use chipquick flux on everything, and it really keeps the heat moving.
I know it takes more time and cleaning it out with wick takes forever but its worth it for arcade pcbs.
To fix that you'll need to jump the broken trace point to point via wire.
I also use chipquick flux on everything, and it really keeps the heat moving.
Chipquick is great, but it's expensive. you can get generic "removal alloy" (essentially just bismuth based solder) for about half the price.
I use it on most SMD stuff and stubborn power pins on though-hole.
it can be messy to clean up but it's much kinder to the PCB
It seems an entire batch of the cables I include with this kit had the 5-pin connector mis-pinned. If you bought one from me the last few months your cable may be wrong. Fortunately these are easy to re-pin yourself. Please make sure your cable matches the picture below or your kit will not work.
LittleMegaGamer
Professional
Sorry for the off topic guys, I would like to back to this board and see if I could repair it (as soon I get some time!)
At the moment, I am this situation with the this solder pad lifted where I am assuming there were two traces joined.
Assuming that pad joined the pins X and Y like show below, could I fix it with a simple jumper wire between the two pins?
In the case I won't fix the problem above, would the board works as well? Just asking it because at the moment I don't have the Crystal installed to test that and I am looking for a replacement.
Thanks
At the moment, I am this situation with the this solder pad lifted where I am assuming there were two traces joined.
Assuming that pad joined the pins X and Y like show below, could I fix it with a simple jumper wire between the two pins?
In the case I won't fix the problem above, would the board works as well? Just asking it because at the moment I don't have the Crystal installed to test that and I am looking for a replacement.
Thanks
LittleMegaGamer
Professional
Just to say that it's all sorted.
I joined the pins above and fixed the board.
Also the original 12mhz Crystal was missing on this board and it is currently running SF2T with the Multi Dual Crystal without hooking up any further wire.
I might move my Multi on this board now and complete the job ...
LittleMegaGamer
Professional
Hi guys,
I decided to install the Multi on the repaired A board mentioned in the previous threads, where I found a solution for the missing (lifted) Reset pad. This board was also already running with the Dual Crystal as a replacement for the original oscillator.
I thought I’d share my experience, as I went for the solder-side installation and therefore have the Reset pin connected to two Reset jumpers.
I’ve been testing quite a few games and, thankfully, everything looks good!
I did have one funny issue to report. During my first test, everything was working except buttons B1, B4, B5, and B6 for both players. I had a feeling this was related to the Dual Crystal area, as I have the chip installed in a socket.
So I reassembled everything and found a way to keep the chip firmly pressed into the socket—and boom! Everything is working perfectly.
It’s great to have the CPS1 Multi setup with this fantastic upgrade!
I decided to install the Multi on the repaired A board mentioned in the previous threads, where I found a solution for the missing (lifted) Reset pad. This board was also already running with the Dual Crystal as a replacement for the original oscillator.
I thought I’d share my experience, as I went for the solder-side installation and therefore have the Reset pin connected to two Reset jumpers.
I’ve been testing quite a few games and, thankfully, everything looks good!
I did have one funny issue to report. During my first test, everything was working except buttons B1, B4, B5, and B6 for both players. I had a feeling this was related to the Dual Crystal area, as I have the chip installed in a socket.
So I reassembled everything and found a way to keep the chip firmly pressed into the socket—and boom! Everything is working perfectly.
It’s great to have the CPS1 Multi setup with this fantastic upgrade!
Golden Ogre
New User
Aaaaand.... now I need this. DM'd
did the same last week, very clever thing (your wires could be shorter)Had a need to take my CPS1 multi apart so had an opportunity to fit the DFO which has been in my TODO pile for a while:
Seems to be working great.