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CPS2 I/O Interface

I can finish this up without moving it, wasn't a hard install (that ground wire in the coaxial shielded cable was maybe the hardest due to its size)...
Now that I have the proper pictures/information. :whistling: :D
 
Have you sent any paypal invoices following up on the confirmation email yet RGB? Just wanted to check in case I might've missed mine (also to help with me budgeting :whistling: :P )

Cheers
 
KingSopz said:
Does it matter which rg174 coaxial cable we use? There are so many out there.
Click to expand...
This is my question too (i don't know what kind of coax to use on it). That was the reason i've not installed yet the board , because i don't know what kind of coax cable to use on this installation :( . i've ask a friend who working on a PC store and he couldn't tell me what kind of cable i must use for this even if he watch on github installation.
 
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AlxUnderBase said:
KingSopz said:
Does it matter which rg174 coaxial cable we use? There are so many out there.
Click to expand...
This is my question too (i don't know what kind of coax to use on it). That was the reason i've not installed yet the board , because i don't know what kind of coax cable to use on this installation :( . i've ask a friend who working on a PC store and he could tell me what kind of cable i must use for this even if he watch on github installation not.
Click to expand...
Maybe we overthinking it to much LOL
 
KingSopz said:
AlxUnderBase said:
KingSopz said:
Does it matter which rg174 coaxial cable we use? There are so many out there.
Click to expand...
This is my question too (i don't know what kind of coax to use on it). That was the reason i've not installed yet the board , because i don't know what kind of coax cable to use on this installation :( . i've ask a friend who working on a PC store and he could tell me what kind of cable i must use for this even if he watch on github installation not.
Click to expand...
Maybe we overthinking it to much LOL
Click to expand...
I first tried this with RG174 and my audio didn't work. I splurged on some low-loss coax and it worked fine.

I used this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L67VJD...lja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1
 
Danexmurder said:
I first tried this with RG174 and my audio didn't work. I splurged on some low-loss coax and it worked fine.
I used this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L67VJD...lja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1
Click to expand...
looks like a much higher quality alternative. Does it have a solid inner core insulator? I tried to follow the exact instructions of the more experienced and thought rg174 was the only 'accepted' model as it was the majority consensus that it was the optimal choice or at least, the most recommended. It is nice to have options.
 
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FakeNoose said:
Danexmurder said:
I first tried this with RG174 and my audio didn't work. I splurged on some low-loss coax and it worked fine.
I used this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L67VJD...lja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1
Click to expand...
see now that looks like a much better alternative. I'll be replacing mine soon enough. I tried to follow exact instructions and thought rg174 was the only accepted type of coax.
Click to expand...
I just order one now, if you want i can cut you some (im not using 20ft lol) :thumbup:
 
FakeNoose said:
Danexmurder said:
I first tried this with RG174 and my audio didn't work. I splurged on some low-loss coax and it worked fine.
I used this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L67VJD...lja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1
Click to expand...
looks like a much higher quality alternative. Does it have a solid inner core insulator? I tried to follow the exact instructions of the more experienced and thought rg174 was the only 'accepted' model as it was the majority consensus that it was the optimal choice or at least, the most recommended. It is nice to have options.
Click to expand...
Yep, good thick insulator on the inner line.
 
Hi!

I also just got done installing the Digital AV interface. I can agree that the instructions are terrible. I did eventually get it running without issues... until...

S6BUdkf.jpg


Can anyone tell me what part the FB26 is? There are a bunch of them on the board. There was one right under where the AV board sits causing it to bend uncomfortably when I secured the case back together. I tried to desolder it and rest it down some but then I heard a *crack* and now when I load up the board I get nothing but a pink screen ;(

I don't know what this thing is called, but I would like to replace it as it was literally working both sound and video right before I cracked it.
 
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Kavas said:
Can anyone tell me what part the FB26 is? There are a bunch of them on the board.
Click to expand...
Yeah, what Frank said. Sadly since no markings, it's difficult to tell what the replacement part is. You can tell if it's broken electrically using an Ohmmeter/continuity tester. It's basically a wire running through some ferrite material. Should be close to 0 ohms. Should still work even if cracked, provided the wire is not broken and you didn't tear the copper vias when you bent it over.
-ud
 
I got it!

I guess it wasn't cracked. What I must have heard was some of the solder cracking underneath. Guess I didn't give it enough slack. The Ferrite Bead was so tall that it was bending the darn AV board, I could start to see the AV board start to get damaged. Completely removing the bead and then resoldering it in with a bit more slack and then bending it was the way to go. Now the board sits flush and all is well.

Not a fan of those 3D printed TEST/VOL buttons. Installed those as well and they seem to stick so easily.

Anyways, need to get me one of these IO boards. Signed up some time ago.
 
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