- Thread starter joele
- Start date
It actually is giving me a kick in the nuts.
And the components are so small that the soldering to test things is a bitch.
It's like mentioned earlier in the thread, if you get into the gameplay you don't really pay attention to it. I only really pay attention to it during the attract modes.
Finally got around to signing up here.
Just in case anymore data is needed for this issue:
I bought 2 kits and they both have the crackling sound issue. One is running on a rev 7 board with no jumpers, the other is on a rev 4 with jumper wire from PAL to kit because running it under the board resulted in the other 'messed up' audio problem. Both 'B' boards are on their own 'A' boards, and both 'B' boards had no crackling when I was running them as converted Progear and 19XX before the kit installs.
Just in case anymore data is needed for this issue:
I bought 2 kits and they both have the crackling sound issue. One is running on a rev 7 board with no jumpers, the other is on a rev 4 with jumper wire from PAL to kit because running it under the board resulted in the other 'messed up' audio problem. Both 'B' boards are on their own 'A' boards, and both 'B' boards had no crackling when I was running them as converted Progear and 19XX before the kit installs.
We are working on solving this as we speak. This is quite complicated to narrow down...
Finally got around to playing with my multi for an extended time after Mitsu fixed my missing audio issue. The crackle is definitely present on mine too. I could hear it pretty distinctly in Xmen Vs Street Fighter both in attract and during gameplay. Progear seems to have it a bit as well, though maybe not as distinct.
If it's of any help to you guys troubleshooting I'm running on a rev3 board using an F pal. I tried a G pal as well which also does it.
If it's of any help to you guys troubleshooting I'm running on a rev3 board using an F pal. I tried a G pal as well which also does it.
not really. its been known for a month.....
Every kit has some form of crackle. Some games are worse than others. The fix, if found, will work for all revisions of pcb or F or G pal. The issue is not on the B-board.
I didn't see anything in the thread saying they found a fix/cause, just that they were trying to narrow it down. So I didn't see any harm in supplying my configuration as well.
I don't think he meant to come off so harsh.
J
jassin000
So I don't see how this could even remotely be connected to the audio problem... But I'll share this experience anyway.
The included 14-pin IDC cable connecting the LCD screen to the mainboard is gray in color.. I have a JAMMA harness with rainbow colored wire, visible from the outside of the case. I decided to replace the included gray IDC cable with a rainbow colored one, because I'm big on matchy-matchy stuff (also maybe crazy).
Now I've never had a big audio problem to begin with, honestly I can only hear it clearly on the attract mode sound... After swapping cables? I can only hear it on the q-sound portion of the attract mode now, never at any other place demo/gameplay.
Again I don't see how its connected, something just seems strangely better with my audio crackle now. This is the only change I've made...?
Original stock gray 14-pin IDC
Rainbow 14-pin IDC (Ebay/China)
The included 14-pin IDC cable connecting the LCD screen to the mainboard is gray in color.. I have a JAMMA harness with rainbow colored wire, visible from the outside of the case. I decided to replace the included gray IDC cable with a rainbow colored one, because I'm big on matchy-matchy stuff (also maybe crazy).
Now I've never had a big audio problem to begin with, honestly I can only hear it clearly on the attract mode sound... After swapping cables? I can only hear it on the q-sound portion of the attract mode now, never at any other place demo/gameplay.
Again I don't see how its connected, something just seems strangely better with my audio crackle now. This is the only change I've made...?
Original stock gray 14-pin IDC
Rainbow 14-pin IDC (Ebay/China)
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Neither did I if that read as harsh, sorry!
l_oliveira
Professional
This is actually in line with the stuff Darksoft discovered recently (about power draw being a factor on the problem). When you remove the LCD, the current drawn by the kit reduces significantly.
>.>
A fix is in the works.
>.>
A fix is in the works.
That's awesome news! hope its as simple as one extra wire for power haha
If its firmware update related, i know i wont be capable to do it
Actually @jassin000 , what happens if you unplug the LCD altogether? I might try this tonight if I get a chance.
Also, whats the ebay link for that rainbow cable - wouldnt mind keeping that handy
Thanks all.
If its firmware update related, i know i wont be capable to do it
Actually @jassin000 , what happens if you unplug the LCD altogether? I might try this tonight if I get a chance.
Also, whats the ebay link for that rainbow cable - wouldnt mind keeping that handy
Thanks all.
