You're in luck. I have a cab given to me that isn't worth restoring. The coin mech is yours. One problem is that it will just be cosmetic, not functional. I don't know what you call them, but the rails that the coins fall through, were removed. From the front it should look fine though after some clean up. I have no idea how much it will be to ship though. PM me.
- Thread starter Failerson
- Start date
Any help identifying this monitor? What's the best way to clean it? How do I tell if it's fully discharged? Any help is greatly appreciated.
http://imgur.com/d5iqusn,bqMTT54,uC15YQU
http://imgur.com/d5iqusn,bqMTT54,uC15YQU
All I can tell from the tube label is that it is a 25" tube. The tube doesn't matter. Pictures of the Chassis are needed.
That model number is indicative of a K7000 but there is a small possibility that it is a K7000A. Take a picture of the chassis anyway and post here for us to confirm for you.
As for the discharge thing, no way to check. Just discharge it anyway. As for washing it, use this video:
Make sure you discharge the monitor first.
As for the discharge thing, no way to check. Just discharge it anyway. As for washing it, use this video:
Make sure you discharge the monitor first.
More pictures. Just making sure I didn't get screwed on the price.
http://m.imgur.com/kBQktDM,2b0DH4L,UozdhED,7JBDsc8,1riS5HV,jHT6ltI
http://m.imgur.com/kBQktDM,2b0DH4L,UozdhED,7JBDsc8,1riS5HV,jHT6ltI
Yup, that's a K7000 chassis, and funny enough, that's the exact same picture tube that I have in mine. An RCA A63ADT10X05 with the bonded yoke/purity setup that I had pulled from an old TV i got for free. While the K7000 chassis typically does self-discharge the tube, it won't always do that. I got bit by my set after pulling the chassis out to do some work on it. Didn't get bit when I pulled the chassis, but got bit when I went to put the anode cup back on. heh.
Just to be safe, take something like a metal spatula from the kitchen, strip a whole bunch of insulation from some thicker gauge wire and wrap it tightly around the metal handle, tape it down with some duct-tape, then wrap the handle a few times with a kitchen towel. Super cheap and quick discharge tool if you don't have a long metal shafted screwdriver.
You can strip off the other end of the long wire and clip that bare wire to the metal chassis cage and put the metal spatula under the anode cup to discharge it and dislodge the clips.
Just remember, after you discharge the tube it will tend to build up a charge again while you work on the chassis. BEFORE YOU RE-ATTACH THE ANODE CUP, DISCHARGE THE TUBE ONCE MORE.
Just to be safe, take something like a metal spatula from the kitchen, strip a whole bunch of insulation from some thicker gauge wire and wrap it tightly around the metal handle, tape it down with some duct-tape, then wrap the handle a few times with a kitchen towel. Super cheap and quick discharge tool if you don't have a long metal shafted screwdriver.
You can strip off the other end of the long wire and clip that bare wire to the metal chassis cage and put the metal spatula under the anode cup to discharge it and dislodge the clips.
Just remember, after you discharge the tube it will tend to build up a charge again while you work on the chassis. BEFORE YOU RE-ATTACH THE ANODE CUP, DISCHARGE THE TUBE ONCE MORE.
Yeah, it's a K7000. The coloring of the board, layout, and especially the pots on the neckboard are all exactly the same as the P538 K7000 board that I have. It's not a Zenith K7000A since that flyback has two wires coming out of the anode cup. What's funny is the RCA tube in his monitor is exactly the same as the one in my cab that I pulled from a TV set. It may be that the previous owner had tube swapped as well since the yoke/purity setup is bonded to the tube in the A63ADT10X05 model. I think WG would have used an unbonded yoke setup for their monitors.
Hopefully the project will be done soon the only thing I need now is the kick harness and either a cd rom drive or scsi2sd thing, monitor bezel and glass. Everything else is on its way. It's such a tease getting everything part by part. then will come the hard part, wiring this thing. Not looking forward to that. I am looking forward to playing a non emulated version of third strike. Maybe it's me but the game emulated doesn't feel like I remember. I could be crazy though.
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Heh. I know that feeling. Sadly, for me at least, the bulk of the fun WAS the anticipation and getting everything and putting it together. Once i finished my project, it felt kind of anticlimactic. lol. Hopefully one day they can figure out how to add a multi-CPS1 to the CPS2 and CPS3 awesomeness. /dreams.
Well the MAME version is pretty darn good. The problem might be you are playing it on a non-CRT display. In any case, once you do have this on a real arcade machine dressed to the 9's with real arcade controls, with a proper CRT monitor, standing in front of a genuine arcade machine, with your face faintly illuminated by the glow of the marquee and radiant phosphors emanating from your CRT, it will be infinitely better than your MAME experience.
Anyhow, congrats on getting this far bud. Last time we had a noob drop by, the whole forum mobilized to help him. His thread for a while was more popular than Darksoft's Neo Geo thread. But we haven't heard from him since. Can't wait to see the final result!
P.S. don't forget to hook that monitor up to an ISO transformer. If you don't have one with your cab let me know. And I'll send it with the coin mech.
Anyhow, congrats on getting this far bud. Last time we had a noob drop by, the whole forum mobilized to help him. His thread for a while was more popular than Darksoft's Neo Geo thread. But we haven't heard from him since. Can't wait to see the final result!
P.S. don't forget to hook that monitor up to an ISO transformer. If you don't have one with your cab let me know. And I'll send it with the coin mech.
I got the monitor cleaned today and I didn't even electrocuted. Must be a good day. Does anyone have an idiots guide or could point me to one that would show how to wire from the wall to the power supply?
http://imgur.com/Gg6bsWi,nuhY3ZM
http://imgur.com/Gg6bsWi,nuhY3ZM
Use Bob Roberts' wiring guide: http://therealbobroberts.net/acwiring.html. It is the bible.
For the power distribution block, you can use barrier strips. They are really cheap if you can't find a good cheap power distribution block. Personally, I like power distribution blocks with quick disconnects because they look cleaner. Bob's diagram shows these. Also, I would not advise distributing everything from the PSU. It works, but if anything goes wrong, you have to de-tassle everything which is a pain. A good power distribution block is professional looking and allows you to use quick disconnects. I use these quick disconnects for my buttons and power. They are really cheap but of course you have to wait two weeks for them from China. You need a crimping tool to use them however.
Also, I think you are using one of those rectangular arcade switching PSU's instead of the original Peter Chou style arcade PSU's? That is fine. But these don't have a clean terminal to connect from your house's plug. You can use one of these. Board up the hole where the original Peter Chou style arcade PSU once was. Cut a hole in that board for this. You can salvage this from a dead computer PSU if you are adventurous. Makes it look all professional.
For the power distribution block, you can use barrier strips. They are really cheap if you can't find a good cheap power distribution block. Personally, I like power distribution blocks with quick disconnects because they look cleaner. Bob's diagram shows these. Also, I would not advise distributing everything from the PSU. It works, but if anything goes wrong, you have to de-tassle everything which is a pain. A good power distribution block is professional looking and allows you to use quick disconnects. I use these quick disconnects for my buttons and power. They are really cheap but of course you have to wait two weeks for them from China. You need a crimping tool to use them however.
Also, I think you are using one of those rectangular arcade switching PSU's instead of the original Peter Chou style arcade PSU's? That is fine. But these don't have a clean terminal to connect from your house's plug. You can use one of these. Board up the hole where the original Peter Chou style arcade PSU once was. Cut a hole in that board for this. You can salvage this from a dead computer PSU if you are adventurous. Makes it look all professional.
Figured I'd show a picture. It's almost there. Just needs paint. Before monitor and everything else goes in.
http://m.imgur.com/8LnU6oA
http://m.imgur.com/8LnU6oA
First coat of pain on big blue.
http://imgur.com/XkM1UCG
http://imgur.com/XkM1UCG
Sorry if anyone is annoyed by my daily posts. I'm so close to being done. It's mainly my excitement to play a game I used to play when I was younger. It's almost a working game.
http://imgur.com/mzXCI36
http://imgur.com/mzXCI36
xodaraP
Legendary
I don't know about everyone else but I love seeing regular updates of a project coming together so keep them coming!
Could someone point me in the right direction for a couple items? I need a line filter, distribution block ( quick disconnects). Power supply and fuse protection and I can't seem to find the scsi2sd thing everyone has bought. So maybe an old scsi drive?
Oh and can anyone recommend replacement speakers that don't seem cheap like the original paper ones? What thickness plexi or glass do people use for in front of the monitor? Does anyone know what sort of art went on the glass for third strike? Lastly bezel piece for the monitor? Suggestions?
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