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FS Egret 2/Windy 2/NNC/Q25 (Repair refund)

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acblunden2 said:
Egret II Update:
  1. Yellow touch-up spots just laughed at Goof-off and paint thinner.
    • Will mix up a batch of retrobright and if that doesn't work, I am probably going to tear it down and repaint the sucker anyway.
  2. I am definitely having issues with the E2 PSU.
    • Furthest I can turn down the voltage without load is 5.7vdc-5.9vdc. 12vdc and -5vdc are ok.
IMG_2798.JPG
IMG_2800.JPG

I have extra CPS2 and NAOMI boards, so what the heck, I plugged them in. SFA in attract mode doesn't show the character sprites. All the backgrounds, overlays, SFX are there. MvC2 gets just past the Capcom logo as the music starts to wind up and gets stuck in an infinite loops. I am going to re-cap it and see if that helps. If not, looks like Peter Chou to the rescue once I get this bad boy home next month. @radiantsvgun, please PM me those connectors. Hope those boards aren't toasted.

Good news is the marquee light works and the monitor looks pretty good. Below are some snaps with the TPG driving the monitor. I am getting some wavy crawlies across the screen. I guess the MS9 doesn't like Crafty Mech 15khz. I didn't see those in the CPS2 or NAOMI screens. A tiny bit of convergence issues as well:

IMG_2793.JPG
IMG_2796.JPG

IMG_2795.JPG

Windy II Update:
  1. Outside, the Windy II looks pretty good. Inside it pretty grimey. Matter of fact, the Windy looks worse than the E2 from the inside
    • Lots of oxidation everywhere too
  2. Monitor looks like it is about to die
    • Does a chirp, collapses on itself horizontally, then springs the image back into form
    • What do you guys think that is? Filter cap? EDIT: Looks like it is a HOT that is going out at best, flyback at worst
  3. Oh, stupid me, I forgot to bring a laptop with a VGA connector to test with external video, because..........
  4. While voltages tested good off the PSU
  5. Plugging in the NAOMI brought me to a JVS I/O error
  6. Looking at the JVS I/O board, there is oxidation everywhere
  7. I think I see a cap leaking
  8. I ran a separate USB cable to the from the I/O to the NAOMI, still no luck
IMG_2801.JPG
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The Happ adapter I had was made by @FrancoB several, several years ago. Also, there is a French seller making those adapters on eBay. I don’t think his have a connection for -5v while Franco’s does.
 
acblunden2 said:
I am definitely having issues with the E2 PSU.


Furthest I can turn down the voltage without load is 5.7vdc-5.9vdc. 12vdc and -5vdc are ok.
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Please understand this practice. There is no useful information gain by measuring switch power supply this way when you have guaranteed improper function by operating without minimum current load require for regulation. if you don't want plug pcb in hook 1ohm 50watt resistor on your DC +5v and DC ground and remeasure results.
 
I just keep some shitty/cheap PCBs on hand for testing cabs.

I have an old pandoras box that someone gave to me that I used as a test pcb for a while, I have a logic pro2 with some glitchy graphics (worth only $16 working so... ) that I also use
 
twistedsymphony said:
I just keep some shitty/cheap PCBs on hand for testing cabs.

I have an old pandoras box that someone gave to me that I used as a test pcb for a while, I have a logic pro2 with some glitchy graphics (worth only $16 working so... ) that I also use
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Combatribes is my trusty test PCB. It's survived everything so far.
 
brad808 said:
Please understand this practice. There is no useful information gain by measuring switch power supply this way when you have guaranteed improper function by operating without minimum current load require for regulation. if you don't want plug pcb in hook 1ohm 50watt resistor on your DC +5v and DC ground and remeasure results.
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Thanks. I'll remember to always have such a resistor handy. When the cabs arrived, Hatsune Mike was telling me these PSU's were awful. He was right.

I have a bunch of those Peter Chou switching PSU's laying around so I am just going to throw that in there. It's near the same form factor so it will fit. I also use that on my test bench and it works wtih ever PCB I own.
radiantsvgun said:
The Happ adapter I had was made by @FrancoB several, several years ago. Also, there is a French seller making those adapters on eBay. I don’t think his have a connection for -5v while Franco’s does.
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From your PM, I was hoping for just links to the connector housings. I have an upcoming purchase from mouser I need to make anyway. So if anyone knows just what the connectors are on the E2 PSU, please let me know.

On a related note, regarding the JAMMA connection to a JVS cab. I could see in the Windy II, there was no JVS-to-JAMMA connector. (I am wondering how @Cereth did it. I am sure he has a bunch of JVS-to-JAMMA adapters though). So I think I will make a JAMMA loom for it to avoid the cost and lag associated with the conversion. Will see if my buddy's laser cutter can cut slot in the panel mount for additional AMP Up connectors. Looks pretty straight forward but let me know if anything is not correct:

Video Connection:
  1. JAMMA Red -> Pin 1 on VGA
  2. JAMMA Green -> Pin 2 on VGA
  3. JAMMA Blue -> Pin 3 on VGA
  4. JAMMA VGnd -> Pin 5 on VGA
  5. JAMMA CSync -> Pin 13 on VGA
I have one of these handy so if that is the proper way to do it, will make it easy.

Audio Connection:
  1. JAMMA Speaker Level output into a resistor network for Line Level output into female RCA's
I think this is like $3 in parts to achieve this.

DC Volts Connections:
  1. JST VL connector
I'll probably do the same on the NNC. Only tricky part I see is to laser cut the slots on the panel. And doing that cut is just to make it look clean.
 
radiantsvgun said:
@acblunden2 you should reach out to FrancoB and see if he still has his schematic. I have no idea what those connectors are.
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I will. And don't sweat it too much brutha. I am sure the spacing the pins is standard. I'll just pull out the cheap Harbor Freight callipers and do some measuring, then match it to a connector series that works. Post the info here when I find out. Sucks I can't work on these cabs till next year. They are still at my buddy's place.

Oh, regarding my last post with the JVS/JAMMA loom, as far as laser cutting holes for additional wire harnesses connector panels, I think I will just re-terminate the AMP Up connectors coming from the JVS/IO so that those wires and the JAMMA wires terminate into the same connector. Should be much easier to pull off than laser cutting slots into the panel. Also, no need for a physical re-connection under the CP when switching from JVS-to-JAMMA. The only switching will be with the boards in the back. And it is a good idea for me to leave the harnesses coming from the I/O as OG. I'll just fab new ones for this purpose. Plus, I don't know how to extract AMP Up pins and likely don't have the tool for it.

While I don't have access the the E2 and Windy II till next year, the NNC is at my house which I can work on. Here is what I noticed that I have to work on:
  1. My monitor remote board only allows me to adjust settings DOWN, not UP.
    • Hope it is just a loose connection and at worse, a solder reflow will fix it
    • This should just be isolated to my cab and not everyone else's
  2. 1P and 2P seems reversed
    • Wiring under under the CP looks correct, I suspect when Yaton's crew were either stripping out the good parts and putting back in older parts, they connected to the JVS I/O incorrectly
  3. Still need to familiarize myself with the cab
    1. Will need to figure out how to connect a System 256 and Taito Type X2 in there
    2. IIRC, TTX2 works off AC, so need to look where I can distribute the AC coming into the cab to the TTX2 while keeping everything else in tact
I'll post pics as I go along for anyone interested.
 
PSU Connector for Egret II found. Based upon info from FrancoB posted over on OA. The PSU headers are below with the links I found to them on Mouser:
A little over $3 in parts. Also, FrancoB says you have to remove one of the pins from the 13 position header for the keying to work. A little soldering, crimping, and heat shrinking and you should end up with something like this for whatever PSU you want to use:

EgretIIPSUHarness.jpg

Should help folks in this group buy that have issues with the PSU or it is dead. Hatsune Mike was cheeky when he came to pick up his cab in Fremont. He said, something like "Welcome to the world of Egret II." He didn't even bat an eye when his E2 PSU was found to be dead. Mine "works", but is overpowered and causes issues with the NAOMI and CPS2 I processed. I am going to swap it out for a Peter Chou, maybe even a Sun so I can run NAOMI games.
 
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I aprreciate that people may have issues with their cabs, not just from this container, but please remember that there are hundreds of egret 2 owners that have no issues with their PSUs.

Naomi is JVS and draws too much power for the stock egret 2 PSU (and many other jamma cabs) it should power CPS2 when working properly.

It’s not a fault that the PSU can’t power a Naomi.
 
markedkiller78 said:
I aprreciate that people may have issues with their cabs, not just from this container, but please remember that there are hundreds of egret 2 owners that have no issues with their PSUs.

Naomi is JVS and draws too much power for the stock egret 2 PSU (and many other jamma cabs) it should power CPS2 when working properly.

It’s not a fault that the PSU can’t power a Naomi.
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Apologies, I am not normally a disagreeable person. But none in the group buy needs a ten year long owner making holier-than-thou statements about his blissful marriage with his Egret II. GFY (Good for You) that you haven't had any issues. Patently, there are Egret II owners out there that don't have issues with their stock PSU's. Many in this group buy shall be 1st time owners and might, will, and/or already have. There is no value add in anything you stated, and you come off as, well, one that self-felates. Or attempts to (hope C1-through-C7 can withstand your repeated attempts). We were all extended a huge solid by XeD and are all just trying to help each other out here.

Also, I too expected the CPS2 to draw less power than the NAOMI (w/Capcom I/O and MvC2). But that wasn't the case in what I saw. The DMM was plugged into the harness during testing. Under NAOMI load, the reading was 4.75vdc. Under CPS2 load, the reading was 4.56vdc. And you are completely wrong. The NAOMI w/Capcom I/O when used with carts is fully JAMMA compliant.

And again, GFY.
 
I don't consider that drama, just a personal difference of opinion. However, @markedkiller78 is indeed factually correct. E2 PSU was engineered for JAMMA standard power requirements, before JVS and Naomi even became an industry standard. Thus, why we have 2 other flavors released years later of this cab, AWSD and E3.

With that being said, there is no "Standard Requirement" stating you have to keep an E2 completely stock. You build it to your needs, its why folks go out of their way to build plug n play harnesses to retain stock wiring.

I feel that is the most important part. Retaining a standard to preserve the cab by not hacking it into a mess, but by no means required to keep it limited at its stock power.

While I hate using analogies, I think the perfect one in this case is like upgrading a car stereo with an aftermarket head unit. Using proper adapters to retain the stock wiring. As the factory radio does not suit your needs. However, when it comes time to trade that vehicle in, you can easily toss that factory radio back in.
 
markedkiller78 said:
Naomi is JVS and draws too much power for the stock egret 2 PSU (and many other jamma cabs) it should power CPS2 when working properly.

It’s not a fault that the PSU can’t power a Naomi.
Click to expand...
ReplicaX said:
@markedkiller78 is indeed factually correct. E2 PSU was engineered for JAMMA standard power requirements, before JVS and Naomi even became an industry standard.
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Who said anything about running a NAOMI on these E2s?

As far as I can tell the only time NAOMI was mentioned at all was someone running it on a Windy, which IS a JVS cab.

these people are having issues running JAMMA boards.

Dont get me wrong. I'm all for keeping original equipment but making straw-man arguments isn't helping to create a solution for those with problematic PSUs.
 
twistedsymphony said:
ReplicaX said:
@markedkiller78 is indeed factually correct. E2 PSU was engineered for JAMMA standard power requirements, before JVS and Naomi even became an industry standard.
Click to expand...
Who said anything about running a NAOMI on these E2s?

As far as I can tell the only time NAOMI was mentioned at all was someone running it on a Windy, which IS a JVS cab.

these people are having issues running JAMMA boards.

Dont get me wrong. I'm all for keeping original equipment but making straw-man arguments isn't helping to create a solution for those with problematic PSUs.
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It's not a straw man argument when Candy Cabs in general are in high demand and folks want the majority of their collection to work in them.

Problematic PSUs are problematic. However, do not forget we are also connecting 15-20+ year old PCBs into them that are aged on top of the PSUs themselves. In many cases, drawing more power than they use to when they were new and the hours of stress they have had on them.

It's not a straw man argument when I encourage ppl to do what they require for their needs while at the same time going the extra mile to make proper adapters to retain factory wiring.

Moonwalker is notoriously known to draw more power from being stressed due to age and its component for example. My original Raiden checkpoint ver. pcb is the same way.

So I think you are misinterpreting my statement @twistedsymphony:

Do what you need to do for what you want to run, just do it properly without hacking up cabinet wiring.
 
ReplicaX said:
Do what you need to do for what you want to run, just do it properly without hacking up cabinet wiring.
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In fact, that is why I asked the question originally regarding the connectors and dug up the info to fashion a proper harness. I want to keep it OG as possible. No hacking. Adapting is the aim. I am sure everyone else in the group buy does as well.

.....meh, it's Christmas time. Plus, I have too much love and respect for this place. Apologies for my behavior.
 
my comment wasn’t directed at anyone and it probably is pointless to point out that the egret 2 PSU, when working properly, is fit for its intended purpose. The fact the many have been running for years in an arcade environment is proof of that. Im sorry if I’ve caused offence or pissed anyone off.

I only commented as the PSU shouldn’t need to be replaced, unless something is wrong. Obviously people can do whatever they want.

Naomi draws a lot from the 3.3v line, that’s the problem. It’s easily fixed with an additional or replacement PSU. I’ll stop posting as this isn’t a tech section and no one is asking for any help.
 
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