Hedonism Bot 2.0
Grand Master
My windy 2 chassis is completely dead.
- Thread starter XeD
- Start date
For Sale
problem is people with a faulty psu on windy2 can't really tell if something else is broke till psu is fixed. Unfortunately there's no info on the net about fixing or anyone finding a suitable replacement.
Just from my side, I'm overall OK with how things ended up for me and I'm not seeking personal compensation from @XeD, but as a group I do agree we should seek compensation from Yaton due to the deceptive "tested working" terms of the sale. I paid for three working cabs and ended up with two working cabs that I'm happy with (especially the NNC) and one non-working project cab. I'm sure the Windy 2 I'll get up and running eventually (even if it means a new tube + chassis) and it should clean up well at least externally after a lot of work. It would be really sad if the original tube has to go though, because honestly it looks like it could be a great display.
I understand that participation in a group buy like this is a bit of a gamble for everyone involved and there will be some problems. I am however disappointed to hear that the majority of the non-NNC cabs being received are not working and certainly were not tested. If you still owe Yaton money for the cabs, it may be easier to negotiate not paying the remainder (however much that is) or a portion of it, than it would be trying to get money back from him or replacement parts.
If by some miracle we could source working Windy 2 chassis from Yaton for the non-working monitors like @radiantsvguns and mine, that would be awesome and my preferred option but if he had them I imagine he would have already listed/sold them on eBay to be honest.
I understand that participation in a group buy like this is a bit of a gamble for everyone involved and there will be some problems. I am however disappointed to hear that the majority of the non-NNC cabs being received are not working and certainly were not tested. If you still owe Yaton money for the cabs, it may be easier to negotiate not paying the remainder (however much that is) or a portion of it, than it would be trying to get money back from him or replacement parts.
If by some miracle we could source working Windy 2 chassis from Yaton for the non-working monitors like @radiantsvguns and mine, that would be awesome and my preferred option but if he had them I imagine he would have already listed/sold them on eBay to be honest.
I tested all the Windy’s with Guillaume and they’re all problematic... collapsed monitors or heavily distorted images. Chuck Norris probably had a few games on all cabs as all control panels are destroyed. The good news is that all cabs had working PSU’s (for now), but all of them are project cabs.
The NNC’s are all sexy, but throw away the PCB plank: all of them are rotten and have mold...
Haven't tested this with live volts yet, but did meter this all out and it checks good. Here is what my DC adapter for the Egret II PSU looks like:
Close Up:
This the the 13 position 41791-series Molex connector which I picked up locally (2 for $1). The interesting thing is that the Egret II connector has only 12 positions while the actual PSU has 13 positions with one key removed. But from left to right, here is what you should do for each pin:
Back:
Here is the fingerboard I used to check connectivity was going to the correct pins. It has all the pins lables silk screened on it so I can't get the metering tests wrong. Got it from Ian Kellog's site before his apartment was burt down. Also, that is the card from the package bought at Home Depot for the connects I am using for the replacement Peter Chou PSU
Lastly, visual inspection shows the caps on the Egret II all look good. But there is some darkening around the resitors just to the right of the big capacitor on the top right. This should be the reason why it runs high and unstable. I think I will just leave this alone for now and use the Peter Chou PSU.
Still have to make the AC adapter. Don't have the proper connector for that just yet. For that, I just need to make sure I have hot and neutral ID'd correctly.
Close Up:
This the the 13 position 41791-series Molex connector which I picked up locally (2 for $1). The interesting thing is that the Egret II connector has only 12 positions while the actual PSU has 13 positions with one key removed. But from left to right, here is what you should do for each pin:
- Might be hard to see in this pic, but I removed the left most pin from the header. The connector from the harness only has 12 positions. You can leave it in, but you may find it may confuse you later as you align the pins up for connection.
- Not connected but leave it in place to ensure proper alignment.
- This is the keyed pin, so it must be removed for the fit.
- This is the -5 volt pin. I used yellow wire here which is non-standard. But it is all I had handy.
- Interestingly, folks say that the Egret II only has one -5 volt connection at the harness. When I tested my harness with a meter, connectivity to both -5 volt pins was shown.
- +12 volts (used red here because that is what I had handy)
- +12 volts (used red here because that is what I had handy)
- Not connected. Leave this pin here.
- Ground (black)
- Ground (black)
- Ground (black)
- +5 volts (used white here because that is what I had handy)
- +5 volts (used white here because that is what I had handy)
- +5 volts (used white here because that is what I had handy)
Back:
Here is the fingerboard I used to check connectivity was going to the correct pins. It has all the pins lables silk screened on it so I can't get the metering tests wrong. Got it from Ian Kellog's site before his apartment was burt down. Also, that is the card from the package bought at Home Depot for the connects I am using for the replacement Peter Chou PSU
Lastly, visual inspection shows the caps on the Egret II all look good. But there is some darkening around the resitors just to the right of the big capacitor on the top right. This should be the reason why it runs high and unstable. I think I will just leave this alone for now and use the Peter Chou PSU.
Still have to make the AC adapter. Don't have the proper connector for that just yet. For that, I just need to make sure I have hot and neutral ID'd correctly.
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That's not cool. I have a Windy 2 and Egret 2 coming
With regard to the AC power connection to the Egret II PSU, I tested to determine which of the two connections is hot and which is neutral. I tested this by plugging one of the multimeter test leads into a wall outlet ground. Then plugged the other lead into each line on the AC connector going into the PSU. Seems both are hot and I am wondering if that is ok connect to an alternate PSU (Peter Chou).
Additionally, looks like the switch that is just under the Egret II only shuts down the marquee light and the monitor. It does not cut off the AC line to the PSU. So as long as the cab is plugged into an AC outlet, looks like the PSU is always going to draw power. And if you have a PCB connected, the PSU will always power the PCB. Is that expected behavior for the Egret II?
Additionally, looks like the switch that is just under the Egret II only shuts down the marquee light and the monitor. It does not cut off the AC line to the PSU. So as long as the cab is plugged into an AC outlet, looks like the PSU is always going to draw power. And if you have a PCB connected, the PSU will always power the PCB. Is that expected behavior for the Egret II?
markedkiller78
Student
No, thats not normal. The switch is meant to cut power to the PSU (and everything else as a result)
Hers a link to the wiring schematic: https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/images/3/3a/Taito_Egret_2_Schematic.jpg
Hers a link to the wiring schematic: https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/images/3/3a/Taito_Egret_2_Schematic.jpg
90sCyberThriller
Student
Got my windy today. Very happy! Took a lot of cleaning but all of the wiring is original and there. Wish there was a Jamma adapter but who knows if it ever had one. interesting thing about the control panel. It's not original it's like a photocopy artwork of a very crappy panel so no matter how much cleaning you do it'll never clean up LOL. I hope to clean off the yellowing paint but it looks okay for now.
My monitor Powers up but I don't have anything to test it with right now because all of my games are jamma. the wiring in this cab is very complex compared to the original windy. I've never had a JVS cab before. Lots of inputs and outputs from the back to chain multiple cabinets. Luckily the manual is scanned.
Thank you for facilitating this group buy @XeD and thank you for help with shipping @Cereth and good luck to everyone else who got their cabs and is getting them fixed up. Hopefully everybody can keep things original and get them all running!
My monitor Powers up but I don't have anything to test it with right now because all of my games are jamma. the wiring in this cab is very complex compared to the original windy. I've never had a JVS cab before. Lots of inputs and outputs from the back to chain multiple cabinets. Luckily the manual is scanned.
Thank you for facilitating this group buy @XeD and thank you for help with shipping @Cereth and good luck to everyone else who got their cabs and is getting them fixed up. Hopefully everybody can keep things original and get them all running!
Attachments
@90sCyberThriller the Egret panels were the same way. Mine looks out of focus.
If you have a PC with a VGA output, an Xbox 360 with VGA cables, etc, you can test the monitor in 640x480.
If you have a PC with a VGA output, an Xbox 360 with VGA cables, etc, you can test the monitor in 640x480.
@90sCyberThriller do you have neck glow/raster or are you going to wait for a vga signal before powering on.
for anyone having windy2 psu problems sharp image said they fix psu. Not sure if that's helpful at all to anyone thought I'd pass it along.
Hedonism Bot 2.0
Grand Master
I don't know if that's the behavior but what I do to cut off power to cabs is I have a power brick connected to a remote control plug and I just turn cabs on with remote when I want them to have power
@90sCyberThriller if you don't have anything rewrite mentioned a dreamcast with vga will also work I believe.
Also I recommend a jammafier if you plan to run jamma on the windy2.
Also I recommend a jammafier if you plan to run jamma on the windy2.
You know what? That is a very excellent question.
Here's a pic of the tube sticker on my Windy 2:
In my case (this may not go for everyone), the tube looks to match a Nanao MS2930 chassis!
The tube model is listed on AO here: https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Nanao_MS-2931
This could be a great way to revive these tubes with broken chassis! MS293x series chassis are not "easy" to come by, but definitely not unobtainium.Arcade Otaku said:
Edit: This would only work if the tubes have matching or compatible yokes, more investigation is needed.
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any tube that fits in a blast will work in a windy2. Rewrite basically confirmed this by dropping in a tube into my windy2. So I think same curve.
