What's new
By:

FS Egret 2/Windy 2/NNC/Q25 (Repair refund)

For Sale
8bitforlife said:
Rg111 said:
What are some good tips for storing cabs in cold weather?

I mentioned this before, but I never got an answer. Searching on the internet has given me mixed opinions as well. We've been getting sub-zero temps out here, and my cabs will be stored in a garage. Has anyone had any problems/success?
Click to expand...
this may sound silly but when I got my big red freighted here I got big bag versions of those little packets they put in products that you don't want moisture getting into like beef jerky for instance. They are quit big bags. Just put 1 to 2 in each cab if its prolonged storage. They are called Desiccant Bags.
Click to expand...
I've seen guys do this if they have shed arcades in snowy states.
 
I found a post on another forum from a few years back where someone wrote you can use a Blast City MS293x chassis in place of the PB7534 on a Windy 2.

He didn't mention whether the yoke would have to be swapped, but it seems like he would have if that were necessary.

https://www.aussiearcade.com/archive/index.php/t-75969.html
dragonlee' said:
Also you can use Nanao MS2930 ,MS2931,MS2933 and MS2934 chassis if your Toshiba chassis gone dead.Check with Jomac if he does repair them because its a digital chassis.
Click to expand...
 
The 32 should work on the same yoke as 30, 31, 33 and 34, so you could reasonably expect it to work on the Windy as well. However, the tube curvature is different on the monitors, so geometry might be off. The 32 is curved, 30 (et al) semi-flat.

I posted inductance readings of both yokes in this post:

will a Nanao MS-2932 Tube work with an MS-2931 Chassis?

I don't know if @twistedsymphony ever tried it.

For the record, the resistance readings are probably off by +-0.5. My multimeter doesn't work well with low resistance. So if I have the resistance down at 0.55, it just means my multimeter was jumping back and forth between 0.5-0.6. Also, my inductance meter is a cheap $15 affair. So YMMV!

As for how you measure inductance, well, it's like measuring resistance. Just put the meter leads in the yoke connector and touch the metal pins. Doesn't matter which lead goes to which pin. If the poles on the yoke are exposed, you can also try to measure it from there.
 
Last edited:
Stupid question but no need to discharge the tube first right?
 
nem said:
I posted inductance readings of both yokes in this post:

will a Nanao MS-2932 Tube work with an MS-2931 Chassis?

I don't know if @twistedsymphony ever tried it.
Click to expand...
I finally found a couple of MS2931 chassis, they just arrived earlier this week and are still in the box though. I'll probably pull the back of the Net city and start checking things out in another week or two. Your reading will be invaluable to verifying my tube and yoke once that time comes :D
 
  • Like
Reactions: nem
kuze said:
Stupid question but no need to discharge the tube first right?
Click to expand...
Unless you're removing the anode cap, there's never a need to discharge the tube.

However, you will need to remove the yoke connector(s) from the chassis. Depending on the chassis the connector(s) can be in a pretty hard to reach spot.
 
nem said:
kuze said:
Stupid question but no need to discharge the tube first right?
Click to expand...
Unless you're removing the anode cap, there's never a need to discharge the tube.
However, you will need to remove the yoke connector(s) from the chassis. Depending on the chassis the connector(s) can be in a pretty hard to reach spot.
Click to expand...
Thanks, yeah it can be a pain to reach those connections - certainly was plugging the degauss cable back in.

How does this LCR meter look? Should do the trick?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WNNYQT
 
OK, I've had 5 people PM me so far asking where I got my MS2931 Chassis...
I got them from Yaton, on eBay... bought them probably 2 months ago now (it takes a while to get them in), I believe they were part outs from Net Citys that didn't sell as part of the group buy.

The whole reason I bought 2 is because it's highly likely that one or both of them don't work. Probably not what you all are looking for. It doesn't matter because I need one, working or not.

These chassis are hard to find, I've been hunting for a one for the better part of a year. Yaton posts them up every so often and they're usually sold within hours.

Sorry, but there is no super-secret stash of NOS chassis that I know about. :whistling:
 
DecepticonZero said:
Word of warning. You gotta be careful, because Yaton listed several 2932 as "Net City Chassis" a few weeks back. Always verify the model using the close up photos he posts.

Also expect to recap it upon receiving.
Click to expand...
I'm well aware, I've bought 6 chassis from him at this point. I don't even look at what he lists them as and only go by what I see in the photos.

from my perspective Yaton sells mis-listed junk, but sometimes junk is better than nothing.
 
Oh, I wasn't directing that at you, but just posting it as info for folks who might be less experienced with chassis swaps and/or dealing with Yaton.

I know you know what's up.
 
Yeah definitely. Don't buy it until you're 100% sure it's the correct chassis from the pictures, and don't buy it unless you're prepared to at minimum do a re-cap or send it to someone for a refurb.

most of the chassis I've bought from him needed all new adjustment pots replaced cracked resistors and a number of other rusty or cooked parts that I replaced just because they were ugly.
 
I killed a Tosh tube with a Yaton MS2931 chassis a few months ago. 100% dead. I still have no idea what the hell happened there. Corroded pins on the neck connector? Some kind of short circuit?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top