FS Egret 2/Windy 2/NNC/Q25 (Repair refund)
- Thread starter XeD
- Start date
For Sale
brad808
Professional
That is how cab came. Not my handy work. all yellow paint up top too.
brad808
Professional
Would look seriously rough with light shining behind
it was fixed long ago then yellowing on glue is usually sign of age
I donated mine to @Cereth and @acblunden2 to try to work on a repro. Mine was completely shattered off!
There is a blank one on eBay for a grip
The Egret II panel is injection molded. I think the way the plastics industry works is that the vendor supplying injection molded parts retains the molds. Companies just order the quantities needed and are charged for everything including tooling costs. This would prevent companies from taking the molds and going to another supplier to produce the parts for less. So once Taito stopped ordering them, and given that this was a one of a kind part, somewhere, someone just set aside the injection mold or the mold was re-cut for another mold. So there is no way to repro the illuminated panel exactly as how it was produced. If think about it, back when I was a kid, I would go to the Flea Market and see perfect replicas of G1 Transformer toys. The only difference was the color of the plastics. Like the Flea Market had orange Constructicons instead of the Day-Glo green and purple versions sold by Hasbro. Clearly, whoever Hasbro contracted to mold Transformers, just injected their own run in different colors. That is the problem with doing business with China.
In any case, @Cereth has @Rg111's busted panel. Cereth is going to stab at resin molding it or whatever method. It is one thing to repro the panel, it is another thing to produce the graphics. If Cereth can pull it off, great. I have access to a vaccuum forming machine and professional graphic artists if it gets that far. The point is to reproduce it as close to OG as possible and get it out to the community for those that need it.
In any case, @Cereth has @Rg111's busted panel. Cereth is going to stab at resin molding it or whatever method. It is one thing to repro the panel, it is another thing to produce the graphics. If Cereth can pull it off, great. I have access to a vaccuum forming machine and professional graphic artists if it gets that far. The point is to reproduce it as close to OG as possible and get it out to the community for those that need it.
The last blank NOS panel purchased direct from Taito was ~$400 USD.
its going down in price I think. Question is as I don't need one but would be happy to put some money in a pot to buy it. Would it help speed the process along to help for the community?
Just pulled the pb7534 and took measurements of the deflection yoke with an lcr meter.
Red/blue:
L: 0.23 mH
R: 2.0(?) Ohms
Green/Yellow:
L: 11.95 mH
R: 5.8(?) Ohms
The resistance values may be inaccurate, my meter was jumping around all over the place and I took them the best I could.
The inductance values should be pretty close to accurate.
About to try a Blast City chassis on this tube and yoke, wish me luck!
Red/blue:
L: 0.23 mH
R: 2.0(?) Ohms
Green/Yellow:
L: 11.95 mH
R: 5.8(?) Ohms
The resistance values may be inaccurate, my meter was jumping around all over the place and I took them the best I could.
The inductance values should be pretty close to accurate.
About to try a Blast City chassis on this tube and yoke, wish me luck!
Ok well the green/yellow plug fits the Blast Chassis, but the red/blue does not (looks so close though!)... Looks like I'll have to make an adapter for that one.
In other news the existing AC input plug fits so the AMP up connector for video/power shouldn't have to be used. I'll just use VGA input like the Windy already used for video.
The degauss wire doesn't quite fit either and the degauss switch needs adapting. In all honesty I could live without degauss and the only real hurdle is the red/blue yoke wires to test this out.
In other news the existing AC input plug fits so the AMP up connector for video/power shouldn't have to be used. I'll just use VGA input like the Windy already used for video.
The degauss wire doesn't quite fit either and the degauss switch needs adapting. In all honesty I could live without degauss and the only real hurdle is the red/blue yoke wires to test this out.
brad808
Professional
Kuze can you please verify part # of q431. On heatsink near flyback. Thank you
On the PB7534 chassis? Do you just need a picture and the text written on the part?
90sCyberThriller
Student
Has has anyone else just tried to rebuilding their chassis yet? I pulled mine today and pulled off all the capacitors and ordered a new set. Half of the caps were off-brand Chinese caps and many more leaking. Also some of the worst soldering I've ever seen on the fly back.
brad808
Professional
Yes sir. or just verify k1358. Mine was broken off chassis laying loose. It test good so I hacked back in to regain HV. The heatsink clearly not original to chassis though. Just trying to see what original transisitor is
Will do - if not tonight then definitely tomorrow.
Not yet. But ordered this kit and will do it once the parts get here. arcadepartsandrepair.com says there are 4 filter caps that have to be ordered separately. They are:
- 3x - 470uf 250v
- 1x - 1000uf 200v
BTW, my monitor works only barely. Here are the symptoms:
- Chirps
- As it chirps, image horizontally collapses momentarily, then rebounds
- Hence testing the HOT before resigning the issue is a bad flyback and thus the monitor is lost
- After warm up, chirping/collapsing occurs less frequently
- Vertical sides are bowed inwards
90sCyberThriller
Student
I ordered the same kit. I removed all of my caps and made a list but I can tell some of the Caps previously replaced aren't correct like where there are supposed to be bipolar caps I had regular capacitors there. I also had lots of really bad solder joints and probably the worst soldered in flyback I've ever seen. I can't believe my monitor even powered up with this thing.
