dos
Champion
Is there any way to get notified then pre-orders are available? Is the only way to keep checking the website?
Home Arcade System
- Thread starter RGB
- Start date
Hi @RGB,
I just want to tell you I do really want to purchase 2 HAS units. From what I read in the first post, I am also interested in getting some extra modules:
Looking forward to hear news from you. I hope you're doing well. Thanks.
I just want to tell you I do really want to purchase 2 HAS units. From what I read in the first post, I am also interested in getting some extra modules:
- HD15 adapter PCB
- 8pin mini DIN to HD15 PCB
- RGB to Composite Video/S-Video adapter
- 8pin mini DIN adapter + BNC cable
- CPS2 Kick Harness
- JAMMA Extension Harness
Looking forward to hear news from you. I hope you're doing well. Thanks.
hidaniel
Enthusiast
In for one as well when they become available.
Thanks roy,
Glad you mentioned it roy. It was not clear to me whether I should PM or not.
I noticed that in the first post of this thread, RGB wrote he would not take orders via PM but in the first pages of this thread several people PMed him to place an order.
I guess that's an update RGB made recently.
But, I think I'll take your advice just to make sure my order reach the wait list (considering the google doc is not available anymore).
hoagtech
Enlightened
Hey. I'm double testing a couple bootleg boards on the HAS that werent working in my NAC.
For some reason. I cannot get sound to work on the HAS.
I have it connected through Mini Din to SCART and my other scart consoles sounds are working great the Banbridge auto switch.
I even hooked up an headphone to RCA adapter I cannot get sound to come through.
I feel like I'm missing a basic step here...
Edit: I used a PCB that had working sound on my NAC but didnt work on HAS. But when I plugged in the M-72 Multi. The sound was working.
I wonder what makes certain PCB's have sound on cabs but not HAS..
For some reason. I cannot get sound to work on the HAS.
I have it connected through Mini Din to SCART and my other scart consoles sounds are working great the Banbridge auto switch.
I even hooked up an headphone to RCA adapter I cannot get sound to come through.
I feel like I'm missing a basic step here...
Edit: I used a PCB that had working sound on my NAC but didnt work on HAS. But when I plugged in the M-72 Multi. The sound was working.
I wonder what makes certain PCB's have sound on cabs but not HAS..
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XtraSmiley
Legendary
I've never had a PCB not have sound with the HAS. Can you list some titles and maybe we can figure it out.
hoagtech
Enlightened
I’m happy to. Tomorrow it goes down
AlxUnderBase
Enlightened
in case of some bootlegs, you are right ... no sounds ... Mike will teach you what to try to have sounds on some of the bootleg pcbs !
Hello, I noticed that some boards (original and bootlegs) displays and image problem with the HAS that is not present If I connect directly on an arcade cabinet.
The image is distorted diagonally and the "NO SYNC" text is displayed on my PVM (SONY 20M2MD). In most cases also the sound is crippled and unrecognizable.
I see this issue on many boards. For example: a Neo Geo MVS mv-1fz works perfectly fine but both the Galeco boards World Rally 2 do not (but the WR1 is working).
My PSU is a Meanwell 606 and I checked the voltage supply of it (with a multimeter) and it seem fine (+5v, -5v and +12v).
Any one has any hint for me?
Thanks in advance
The image is distorted diagonally and the "NO SYNC" text is displayed on my PVM (SONY 20M2MD). In most cases also the sound is crippled and unrecognizable.
I see this issue on many boards. For example: a Neo Geo MVS mv-1fz works perfectly fine but both the Galeco boards World Rally 2 do not (but the WR1 is working).
My PSU is a Meanwell 606 and I checked the voltage supply of it (with a multimeter) and it seem fine (+5v, -5v and +12v).
Any one has any hint for me?
Thanks in advance
XtraSmiley
Legendary
It may be the sync as some games will not work properly with a PVM. Have you tried changing the sync settings on the HAS?
EDIT: You can see my post below, but on the old HAS there was this to adjust sync:
Note that on the HAS I have the jumper (JP2) 75 Ohm/TLL pulled off (meaning it is in TTL mode) and the Switch 1 (SW1) set to (B) Buffered for CSync.
On HAS 4.0 it has switches as listed in the instruction book.
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XtraSmiley
Legendary
Here is a post from a few years ago. I didn't update it but it may help someone more recently. I've tested (played) a ton more games on a HAS 4.0, so if you have questions about a specific game feel free to ask.
2 September 2018 HAS testing update, in the future I'll update this post vice making a new one:
At this time I have not needed to purchase a SCART cable to use with the OSSC at all. Please try my settings before spending an extra $20-25 on something you my not need. A small caveat is that you will not have a LPF in this scenario, resulting in very light image distortion most visible on solid backgrounds. See my note below about this. I will retest when I get my SCART cable.
I am using HAS 3.1, OSSC 1.6 FW .81, 8pin min DIN cable with the 8pin mini DIN to HD15 adapter PCB connect to the OSSC, with 3.5 audio cable for sound.
HAS 3.1 right side showing 8pin min DIN cable connection and 3.5mm audio cable. These two cables plug into the OSSC (see below). Note that on the HAS I have the jumper (JP2) 75 Ohm/TLL pulled off (meaning it is in TTL mode) and the Switch 1 (SW1) set to (B) Buffered for CSync.
OSSC 1.6 version. Left side when looking from top. HDMI cable out and 3.5mm audio cable into OSSC port "A3 IN" from the HAS.
OSSC 1.6 version. Right side when looking from top. 8pin mini DIN to HD15 adapter PCB connect to the OSSC "V3 IN" port. 8pin min DIN cable plugged into it from the HAS. Lower cable is the OSSC power.
On OSSC the default setting for Pre/Post Coast is 1. You may have to set to something higher such as 4 to get a good sync for some games. I was able to get a sync on some games at 1 but I have read that others needed a 4 for the same game, so it could be odd tolerances between boards. Finally you must be in mode AV3: RGBS (the first/default mode is AV3: RGBHV).
Atomiswave : Dolphin Blue, Metal Slug 6 =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 1, but had to mess with it initially by setting to 4. Now seems to work starting in 1. Set Atomiswave hi-rez dip switch to off, get 480i passthrough, looks like shit, and you must correct the aspect ratio in your TV settings.
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 1, but had to mess with it initially by setting to 4. Now seems to work starting in 1. Set Atomiswave hi-rez dip switch to on, get 480p passthrough, looks much better but you must correct the aspect ratio in your TV settings.
Capcom CPS2 : Dungeons & Dragons Tower of Doom (Phoenix ROMs) =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 1, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off.
Irem M72 : Dragon Breed =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast 1, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off. Also, bottom layer of this games screen is cut off (score, lives, time layer) at the default settings. To see it you have to adjust the settings under Advance Timing Tweaker. I set Vertical Sync Length to 6, Vertical Backporch Length to 30, and Vertical Active Length to 240. This allows you to see the full bottom line information and graphics, however the top is now cut off a bit. You could cut back on my settings to see the numbers, giving up a little bit of the graphics but gaining back the top line. Your call how you rock this.
Irem M92 : Major Title 2, Ninja Baseball Bat Man =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 1, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off.
PGM : Demon Front, Espagaluda, The Gladiator, Oriental Legend, Photo Y2K, Photo Y2K 2 =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 1, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off.
Taito F3 : Elevator Action Returns =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 4, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off.
Sega STV : Radiant Silvergun =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 4, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off.
Sega System 16 : Altered Beast, ESWAT, Golden Axe, Shinobi =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 1, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off.
Not having a SCART cable makes it so you can play all PCBs with one cable, and avoid having to change the TTL to 75R, which is hard because the jumper is under the plexi, but there is one issue, see below.
*****Low Pass Filter. The HAS uses a THS7316, which doesn't have a LPF (at the frequency we are using for Arcade Boards), but that is normally good because the OSSC has a built in LPF. What you never want is, more than one LPF, or no LPF, so we should be set right? Yes, except the OSSC VGA input that we are using via the 8pin mini DIN to HD15 adapter doesn't have a LPF, so in essence, our feeds in this set up do NOT have a LPF at all, resulting in a picture that isn't as good as it could be. This is likely the reason I have some of the distortion I listed earlier below. Once I get my SCART cable, I'll post my results.******
The ONLY thing I think I noticed, and it's difficult to spot because you need a solid back ground and there is no way to pause arcade games, is that the images seem to have slight distortion in the solid back grounds. You can Google why LPF are important in old arcade/console image clarity to see some examples. It's not terrible, but I'll post more results when I get my SCART cable.
Anyway, a big thanks to RGB for the HAS, Jassin for his testing before hand that let me jump right into playing, and to James at JNX, who is always helping me get shit working
2 September 2018 HAS testing update, in the future I'll update this post vice making a new one:
At this time I have not needed to purchase a SCART cable to use with the OSSC at all. Please try my settings before spending an extra $20-25 on something you my not need. A small caveat is that you will not have a LPF in this scenario, resulting in very light image distortion most visible on solid backgrounds. See my note below about this. I will retest when I get my SCART cable.
I am using HAS 3.1, OSSC 1.6 FW .81, 8pin min DIN cable with the 8pin mini DIN to HD15 adapter PCB connect to the OSSC, with 3.5 audio cable for sound.
HAS 3.1 right side showing 8pin min DIN cable connection and 3.5mm audio cable. These two cables plug into the OSSC (see below). Note that on the HAS I have the jumper (JP2) 75 Ohm/TLL pulled off (meaning it is in TTL mode) and the Switch 1 (SW1) set to (B) Buffered for CSync.
OSSC 1.6 version. Left side when looking from top. HDMI cable out and 3.5mm audio cable into OSSC port "A3 IN" from the HAS.
OSSC 1.6 version. Right side when looking from top. 8pin mini DIN to HD15 adapter PCB connect to the OSSC "V3 IN" port. 8pin min DIN cable plugged into it from the HAS. Lower cable is the OSSC power.
On OSSC the default setting for Pre/Post Coast is 1. You may have to set to something higher such as 4 to get a good sync for some games. I was able to get a sync on some games at 1 but I have read that others needed a 4 for the same game, so it could be odd tolerances between boards. Finally you must be in mode AV3: RGBS (the first/default mode is AV3: RGBHV).
Atomiswave : Dolphin Blue, Metal Slug 6 =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 1, but had to mess with it initially by setting to 4. Now seems to work starting in 1. Set Atomiswave hi-rez dip switch to off, get 480i passthrough, looks like shit, and you must correct the aspect ratio in your TV settings.
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 1, but had to mess with it initially by setting to 4. Now seems to work starting in 1. Set Atomiswave hi-rez dip switch to on, get 480p passthrough, looks much better but you must correct the aspect ratio in your TV settings.
Capcom CPS2 : Dungeons & Dragons Tower of Doom (Phoenix ROMs) =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 1, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off.
Irem M72 : Dragon Breed =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast 1, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off. Also, bottom layer of this games screen is cut off (score, lives, time layer) at the default settings. To see it you have to adjust the settings under Advance Timing Tweaker. I set Vertical Sync Length to 6, Vertical Backporch Length to 30, and Vertical Active Length to 240. This allows you to see the full bottom line information and graphics, however the top is now cut off a bit. You could cut back on my settings to see the numbers, giving up a little bit of the graphics but gaining back the top line. Your call how you rock this.
Irem M92 : Major Title 2, Ninja Baseball Bat Man =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 1, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off.
PGM : Demon Front, Espagaluda, The Gladiator, Oriental Legend, Photo Y2K, Photo Y2K 2 =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 1, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off.
Taito F3 : Elevator Action Returns =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 4, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off.
Sega STV : Radiant Silvergun =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 4, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off.
Sega System 16 : Altered Beast, ESWAT, Golden Axe, Shinobi =
HAS=TTL, OSSC=Pre/Post Coast on 1, 3x mode looks best as it doesn't cut off top or bottom but is 720p and 5x mode is 1080p, however the top and bottom are cut off.
Not having a SCART cable makes it so you can play all PCBs with one cable, and avoid having to change the TTL to 75R, which is hard because the jumper is under the plexi, but there is one issue, see below.
*****Low Pass Filter. The HAS uses a THS7316, which doesn't have a LPF (at the frequency we are using for Arcade Boards), but that is normally good because the OSSC has a built in LPF. What you never want is, more than one LPF, or no LPF, so we should be set right? Yes, except the OSSC VGA input that we are using via the 8pin mini DIN to HD15 adapter doesn't have a LPF, so in essence, our feeds in this set up do NOT have a LPF at all, resulting in a picture that isn't as good as it could be. This is likely the reason I have some of the distortion I listed earlier below. Once I get my SCART cable, I'll post my results.******
The ONLY thing I think I noticed, and it's difficult to spot because you need a solid back ground and there is no way to pause arcade games, is that the images seem to have slight distortion in the solid back grounds. You can Google why LPF are important in old arcade/console image clarity to see some examples. It's not terrible, but I'll post more results when I get my SCART cable.
Anyway, a big thanks to RGB for the HAS, Jassin for his testing before hand that let me jump right into playing, and to James at JNX, who is always helping me get shit working
Hi XtraSmiley, thank you. I will try to play with CSync SW2 switch (and as a last resort with the SW3 switch).
I noticed the two switches and I read the manual about them but I was afraid to mess with something and damaging my beloved PWM.
Thank you again.
I noticed the two switches and I read the manual about them but I was afraid to mess with something and damaging my beloved PWM.
Thank you again.
XtraSmiley
Legendary
Don't sweat testing different CSync on a HAS. RGB designed it to avoid damaging your PVM, however, this advice does NOT apply to any other SuperGun unless the creator can verify it.
FirebrandX
Student
I have a HAS 4.0 2019. I heard something about a 4.1 version coming out. Can anyone tell me what the new features are? Also I'm considering getting a Green Beret (Rush'n Attack) PCB, but from what I understand, it doesn't use JAMMA. Is there a recommended Jamma adapter I should use? Much appreciated for your help!
Brentradio
Champion
This PCB is Konami Classic pinout. Get this adapter from Arcadeshop.com and you can play lots of boards with it!
.
AlxUnderBase
Enlightened
Yes sir ... about the adapter i've used with my Rush'n Attack pcb is not available for i don't know what reason ... but you can get this sir : https://www.arcadeshop.com/i/363/konami-stern-series-jamma-adapter.htm
Also you can make yourself one until the adapter will come if you have the needed connectors : https://www.arcade-museum.com/pinouts-class/Konami_Classic.html
Because i plugged backwards and i powered i had some issue with , but now is fixed by Hammy and i'm happy with this beauty !
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Brentradio
Champion
