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Sp33dFr34k

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@Helios the HAS is chamma compatible, but your IO is not. You need to hook up the kick harness connector to get button 6 to work. And you need to disable button 6 on the HAS otherwise it will always be pressed (button 6 to ground). On HAS it's JST XH 6 pin, and on the IO side it's a 14 pin JST NH. You need pin 4 and 8 for P1 B6 and P2 B6.

http://triplemoonstar.brinkster.net/theshed/images/naomijamma.gif
 
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9999 Damage

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While we're tossing out goofy ideas... AvramCE's OpenMVS consolization kit is basically a supergun (with no kick harness support) broken into a bunch of pieces and fit into a console-like shell, and with A/V tuned for the MVS's RGB.

That made me think: I don't see any reason why a supergun designer couldn't make a generic consolization kit. The community could create PCB-specific 3D cases (edit: with access to dips, pots, LCD selectors...). AFAIK the main issue is whether there's enough of a market for it, since the arcade crowd is very comfortable with superguns and cabinets.

Personally, I love consolization kits. A standalone supergun like HAS gives me ultimate flexibility, but if I had the option, I'd love to have a bunch of console-like devices with small AC adapters than either A) plugging and unplugging PCBs to my supergun every session, or B) lining up a bunch of superguns and arcade PSUs on the shelf.
 

Helios

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triple_lei

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He's saying to use one of these and wire your stuff to it. It's not going to degrade anything

https://www.arcaniac.com/collection...3-96mm-0-156-pass-through-fingerboard-adapter

Wow, I was just thinking I needed one of these for my CPS2 multikit, but I didn't know they existed.

I'm using twistedsymphony's LCD holster and my HAS JAMMA extension with the acrylic & spacers was too fat to fit in that tiny space, so I had the bare PCB just flopping around ever since. This passthrough is definitely what I need here, right? And no problems with the PCBs possibly flexing from the weight of the JAMMA extension?
 

dos

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Wow, I was just thinking I needed one of these for my CPS2 multikit, but I didn't know they existed.

I'm using twistedsymphony's LCD holster and my HAS JAMMA extension with the acrylic & spacers was too fat to fit in that tiny space, so I had the bare PCB just flopping around ever since. This passthrough is definitely what I need here, right? And no problems with the PCBs possibly flexing from the weight of the JAMMA extension?
Yeah all something like that does is extend the JAMMA edge. Whether it's right for your specific application, no idea as I don't use a LCD holster
 

Helios

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@Helios the HAS is chamma compatible, but your IO is not. You need to hook up the kick harness connector to get button 6 to work. And you need to disable button 6 on the HAS otherwise it will always be pressed (button 6 to ground). On HAS it's JST XH 6 pin, and on the IO side it's a 14 pin JST NH. You need pin 4 and 8 for P1 B6 and P2 B6.

http://triplemoonstar.brinkster.net/theshed/images/naomijamma.gif
I connected the HAS CN4 P1 B6 and P2 B6 to the Sega JVS CN3 pin 4 and 8.
Also used my multimeter to confirm continuity between each point.

but still having the same problem, button 6 on the arcade stick still not working.
 

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the Goat

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I connected the HAS CN4 P1 B6 and P2 B6 to the Sega JVS CN3 pin 4 and 8.
Also used my multimeter to confirm continuity between each point.

but still having the same problem, button 6 on the arcade stick still not working.
Did you disable button 6 on the jamma edge?
 

XtraSmiley

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Just to troubleshoot, can you program button 6 to a different physical button and test it. (Hold down two buttons, hold start until red led on HAS blinks, and pick a new button to be button six, press it 6 times, you'll see the red-led blink, then press start).
 

Sp33dFr34k

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I connected the HAS CN4 P1 B6 and P2 B6 to the Sega JVS CN3 pin 4 and 8.
Also used my multimeter to confirm continuity between each point.

but still having the same problem, button 6 on the arcade stick still not working.

You've got them on the wrong way around buddy. If you'd be using the JST NH connector you'd see the pin numbering is correct in the schematic, but the numbering should start at the left side in your picture.
 

Helios

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You've got them on the wrong way around buddy. If you'd be using the JST NH connector you'd see the pin numbering is correct in the schematic, but the numbering should start at the left side in your picture.
After the switching the cables to the left side, the 6P started working.

Thank you so much.
 
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Keroro1125

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Hoping the S-Video adapter becomes available again sometime in the near future. I have a 36 inch Toshiba that'd be awesome to use with the unit but the best it can do is S-video.
 
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