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@Helios the HAS is chamma compatible, but your IO is not. You need to hook up the kick harness connector to get button 6 to work. And you need to disable button 6 on the HAS otherwise it will always be pressed (button 6 to ground). On HAS it's JST XH 6 pin, and on the IO side it's a 14 pin JST NH. You need pin 4 and 8 for P1 B6 and P2 B6.

http://triplemoonstar.brinkster.net/theshed/images/naomijamma.gif
 
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While we're tossing out goofy ideas... AvramCE's OpenMVS consolization kit is basically a supergun (with no kick harness support) broken into a bunch of pieces and fit into a console-like shell, and with A/V tuned for the MVS's RGB.

That made me think: I don't see any reason why a supergun designer couldn't make a generic consolization kit. The community could create PCB-specific 3D cases (edit: with access to dips, pots, LCD selectors...). AFAIK the main issue is whether there's enough of a market for it, since the arcade crowd is very comfortable with superguns and cabinets.

Personally, I love consolization kits. A standalone supergun like HAS gives me ultimate flexibility, but if I had the option, I'd love to have a bunch of console-like devices with small AC adapters than either A) plugging and unplugging PCBs to my supergun every session, or B) lining up a bunch of superguns and arcade PSUs on the shelf.
 
dos said:
He's saying to use one of these and wire your stuff to it. It's not going to degrade anything

https://www.arcaniac.com/collection...3-96mm-0-156-pass-through-fingerboard-adapter
Click to expand...

Wow, I was just thinking I needed one of these for my CPS2 multikit, but I didn't know they existed.

I'm using twistedsymphony's LCD holster and my HAS JAMMA extension with the acrylic & spacers was too fat to fit in that tiny space, so I had the bare PCB just flopping around ever since. This passthrough is definitely what I need here, right? And no problems with the PCBs possibly flexing from the weight of the JAMMA extension?

EDIT: Never mind, the female end of RGB's HAS JAMMA extension fully assembled with the acrylic will fit together with Bit District's Multi LCD Holster, but you need to raise the entire CPS2 by 1 cm or so.
 
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triple_lei said:
Wow, I was just thinking I needed one of these for my CPS2 multikit, but I didn't know they existed.

I'm using twistedsymphony's LCD holster and my HAS JAMMA extension with the acrylic & spacers was too fat to fit in that tiny space, so I had the bare PCB just flopping around ever since. This passthrough is definitely what I need here, right? And no problems with the PCBs possibly flexing from the weight of the JAMMA extension?
Click to expand...
Yeah all something like that does is extend the JAMMA edge. Whether it's right for your specific application, no idea as I don't use a LCD holster
 
Sp33dFr34k said:
@Helios the HAS is chamma compatible, but your IO is not. You need to hook up the kick harness connector to get button 6 to work. And you need to disable button 6 on the HAS otherwise it will always be pressed (button 6 to ground). On HAS it's JST XH 6 pin, and on the IO side it's a 14 pin JST NH. You need pin 4 and 8 for P1 B6 and P2 B6.

http://triplemoonstar.brinkster.net/theshed/images/naomijamma.gif
Click to expand...
I connected the HAS CN4 P1 B6 and P2 B6 to the Sega JVS CN3 pin 4 and 8.
Also used my multimeter to confirm continuity between each point.

but still having the same problem, button 6 on the arcade stick still not working.
 

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Helios said:
I connected the HAS CN4 P1 B6 and P2 B6 to the Sega JVS CN3 pin 4 and 8.
Also used my multimeter to confirm continuity between each point.

but still having the same problem, button 6 on the arcade stick still not working.
Click to expand...
Did you disable button 6 on the jamma edge?
 
Just to troubleshoot, can you program button 6 to a different physical button and test it. (Hold down two buttons, hold start until red led on HAS blinks, and pick a new button to be button six, press it 6 times, you'll see the red-led blink, then press start).
 
Helios said:
I connected the HAS CN4 P1 B6 and P2 B6 to the Sega JVS CN3 pin 4 and 8.
Also used my multimeter to confirm continuity between each point.

but still having the same problem, button 6 on the arcade stick still not working.
Click to expand...

You've got them on the wrong way around buddy. If you'd be using the JST NH connector you'd see the pin numbering is correct in the schematic, but the numbering should start at the left side in your picture.
 
Sp33dFr34k said:
You've got them on the wrong way around buddy. If you'd be using the JST NH connector you'd see the pin numbering is correct in the schematic, but the numbering should start at the left side in your picture.
Click to expand...
After the switching the cables to the left side, the 6P started working.

Thank you so much.
 
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Hoping the S-Video adapter becomes available again sometime in the near future. I have a 36 inch Toshiba that'd be awesome to use with the unit but the best it can do is S-video.
 
I've been happily using my HAS supergun for years. Last night Buttons 2,3,4,5,6 all stopped working for Player 1. Any idea how I should start diagnosing this?
 
Enter the rapid-fire configuration and leave the configuration with the start button in order to clear any rapid-fire that could've been accidentally programmed. Next, if still doesn't work, enter the button remapping mode and set a new button layout. If none of that works, PM me.
 
RGB said:
Enter the rapid-fire configuration and leave the configuration with the start button in order to clear any rapid-fire that could've been accidentally programmed. Next, if still doesn't work, enter the button remapping mode and set a new button layout. If none of that works, PM me.
Click to expand...
Will do, thanks RGB!

EDIT:

That took care of it! I'd forgotten about the rapid fire feature. After disabling it and remapping the buttons everything started working again. Cheers!
 
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Is there a way to disable the rapid fire and button mapping all together? Asking because some folks that come over to play have a nasty habit of holding down buttons and start.
 
Having trouble swallowing a $70cad spend on an AV cable, any sources that are a bit more reasonably priced?
 
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