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May have been covered earlier, apologies if so. What current draw can I expect on +5, +12, -5V with CPS2, MVS, and PGM?

I've got a lovely Power-One linear power supply that provides 5V at 3A with OVP, 12V at 1A, and -5V at 0.4A; was hoping to put it to use!
 
May have been covered earlier, apologies if so. What current draw can I expect on +5, +12, -5V with CPS2, MVS, and PGM?

I've got a lovely Power-One linear power supply that provides 5V at 3A with OVP, 12V at 1A, and -5V at 0.4A; was hoping to put it to use!
Current draw depends on the board you’re using. Manufacturers require 7A on 5V for some boards. I would say go with 7A at the minimum and you should be fine.
 
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I have a crazy request for the next revision.

Can we get a physical coin box to plug into the HAS?

I love the act of dropping coins to play arcade and dumping the bucket out to see my real life savings and score.

What do you guys think?
 
I’m with @the Goat on this— not for me.

That said, it shouldn’t need a HAS revision, right? You could send credit signals on DB15 pin 3, and make controller input a pass-through.
Hmm. you got me intrigued.

The DB 15 screw terminals I could find don't have a female connector and are meant to hardwire to leads. How would I go about using a passthrough and extracting pin 3 while still being able to use the controller.

Here's the DB - 15 terminals I could find.

8e-3c6d1b5b2ef6-1-abfeb4e639106ff0c2b1bb883b66c2dc.jpg


And if you didn't prefer to perform the act of dropping coin to play. Could we at least agree a credit tracker would be awesome so we can have some sort of benchmark to our gameplay and value?

Metal Slug X comes to mind just hitting the credit button over and over until you reach the credits. It would nice to know that on your difficulty it costed you. $6.75 at $0.25 per credit to reach those credits.

What do you guys do to keep track? Or do you just nail that credit button like "God Mode"?
 
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Hmm. you got me intrigued.

The DB 15 screw terminals I could find don't have a female connector and are meant to hardwire to leads. How would I go about using a passthrough and extracting pin 3 while still being able to use the controller.

Here's the DB - 15 terminals I could find.



And if you didn't prefer to perform the act of dropping coin to play. Could we at least agree a credit tracker would be awesome so we can have some sort of benchmark to our gameplay and value?

Metal Slug X comes to mind just hitting the credit button over and over until you reach the credits. It would nice to know that on your difficulty it costed you. $6.75 at $0.25 per credit to reach those credits.

What do you guys do to keep track? Or do you just nail that credit button like "God Mode"?
Sounds like a cool product idea. I'll give it a thought to add more complexity/value to it :)
 
Metal Slug X comes to mind just hitting the credit button over and over until you reach the credits. It would nice to know that on your difficulty it costed you. $6.75 at $0.25 per credit to reach those credits.

What do you guys do to keep track? Or do you just nail that credit button like "God Mode"?
Ideas for your project:
  • Solder wires to the solder joints on your supergun
  • Get both an F and M DB15 breakout board and wire them together to make your pass-through
  • Instead of buying breakout boards, splice a DB15 extension cable
  • (my preferred option) Throw 100 JPY in a bowl every time you continue
    tongue.png
    Substitute with a phone app or abacus as you please.
 
The more fun number to care about and keep track of is your score (which typically resets on continue so try not to!)
 
Ideas for your project:
  • Solder wires to the solder joints on your supergun
  • Get both an F and M DB15 breakout board and wire them together to make your pass-through
  • Instead of buying breakout boards, splice a DB15 extension cable
  • (my preferred option) Throw 100 JPY in a bowl every time you continue
    tongue.png
    Substitute with a phone app or abacus as you please.
That's exactly what I did to track my Metal SLUG XX score

I had to dig into the archives to find these photos

A credit tracker would be nice..

IMG-3431.jpg

IMG-3426.jpg

IMG-3424.jpg


I like the idea of soldering to the joints of the PCB the best btw
 
Build a box with a coin slot, coin mech, coin switch, coin counter. wire it to your harness with quick disconnects

https://www.ebay.com/itm/265791276086
https://www.amazon.com/Suzo-Happ-25-Cent-Coin-Mech/dp/B00M107O1U
https://www.amazon.com/Atomic-Market-Switch-Straight-Arcade/dp/B07HM4WP2G
https://www.amazon.com/Atomic-Market-Pinball-Counter-Electronic/dp/B07HM5GWZX

Use the box as a piggy bank or something

EDIT: There's also these all in one solutions, still need to add the counter though https://www.amazon.com/Sintron-Comparable-Acceptor-Selector-Vending/dp/B00C185UQI
 
Just make a JAMMA interposer PCB, i.e a 1:1 JAMMA interface. Then tap out coin, no need to adapt the HAS at all.
Ummm. Can you dumb it down a bit for me?

please reference an example.

Are you saying use a Jamma extension and lead out the Jamma board instead?

If that's what your suggesting I prefer to keep my Jamma leads unextended as they make too many devices built on jamma extension chains such as -5v addition, CPS2 extension, Jamma capture device ETC.

If we adapt to the controller signal, or a jumper (wink wink @RGB) we wouldn't add to the chain of Jamma extension and possible video connection degradation.
 
Buy or make your own one of these to see what goes where https://www.tops-game.jp/products/detail.php?product_id=6283
those are neat but I don't see the advantage over a jamma label on the side.

He's saying to use one of these and wire your stuff to it. It's not going to degrade anything

https://www.arcaniac.com/collection...3-96mm-0-156-pass-through-fingerboard-adapter
That's what I figured, but I was trying to avoid that "Chain" of thought
 
those are neat but I don't see the advantage over a jamma label on the side.
The advantage is being able to use it on any harness if you have multiple, I just use a printout though.

That's what I figured, but I was trying to avoid that "Chain" of thought
Nothing wrong with it and it won't cause any problems (otherwise nobody would use RECO or pre-JAMMA to JAMMA adapters etc)
 
I have a crazy request for the next revision.

Can we get a physical coin box to plug into the HAS?

I love the act of dropping coins to play arcade and dumping the bucket out to see my real life savings and score.

What do you guys think?
I have a personal project like this. I have a second DB15 port on my stick that will connect to an Asahi 100 yen coin drop. A box would need to be built to hold the coin shoot. I haven't decided if I'm going to ask my dad to make a nice wood one or if I'll ask my brother to draft something up that can be made at a metal shop for a small run. I don't know how many people would be interested in such a thing considering a lot of active members here own cabs.

Edit: all this second DB15 port has is ground and the "select" button wired to the terminal post of a brook retro board; the other DB15 is fully wired up to the terminal post on a Brook UFB. Both boards are connected, so everything is wired together. When I drop in a coin, it "pushes" the select/coin button on the other DB15 that is hooked up to the supergun. PM me if you need pics too see the setup, I'm not going to clog this thread with it. I'll publically post about it when the project is done.

If you wanted to go really simple with it, just wire the coin shoot to your select button on your DB15 port, done. It doesn’t matter if you have it wired to a button and the shoot. You can put more than wire in each terminal slot. There are two other ways I could have wired mine up on my stick; it isn’t picky, I just did what I did because of the layout inside my stick.
 
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Hi all,

I'm having an issue with my Naomi + HAS setup. I mainly play Capcom vs SNK 2 and can't seem to get the 6th button to work.

During the Game Test Mode Input section the 6th button does not register when pressed.

The Sega IO 838-13683-93 Rev. B is set to Jumper A.
HAS 4.2 DIP Switch SW2 has buttons 4 through 6 set to ON.

Also did the button configuration following the HAS manual, when I set the 6th button I can see the status led blink.
But after saving the configuration, the 6th buttons still not working.

I might be missing something on my setup to get the button to work.
Any advice is appreciated.
 

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