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my 2cents : I'd advice against atx psu use with naomi"2" especially with netdimm+pi+cf powered from the naomi2😅

it is advised to use a good known working psu (I personally use a meanwell qp-150-3a) have the 5V lane at 5.1V off load, so as the ram module get what they really should be working with IIRC, otherwise, "undervolting" those can mean killing chips
 
Shin said:
my 2cents : I'd advice against atx psu use with naomi"2" especially with netdimm+pi+cf powered from the naomi2😅

it is advised to use a good known working psu (I personally use a meanwell qp-150-3a) have the 5V lane at 5.1V off load, so as the ram module get what they really should be working with IIRC, otherwise, "undervolting" those can mean killing chips
Click to expand...
But what is a good one to use with the HAS combined with a Naomi 1 using a capcom I/O board?
 
I am sure this must have been answered many times before but this is a simple and solid solution.
The ATX PSU is the way to go but you need to buy a quality PSU. This is what I use on my NAOMI 2:

. Corsair ATX 450M PSU
. A high quality ATX to JST adapter to power the NAOMI 2, https://irkenlabs.com/product/atx-to-jst-vl-adapter/
. To power the HAS I take the included power cable for the HAS and attach a standard MOLEX power plug so I can power the HAS from the ATX (I shorten the cables)
. Then I power the Capcom IO (or similar) via the JAMMA edge from the HAS
. I only use the JVS part of the Capcom IO but feel free to use the RCA for audio if you need that.
. I take VGA directly from the NAOMI 2 to my monitor.

I hope that answers your question @And One
 
And One said:
But what is a good one to use with the HAS combined with a Naomi 1 using a capcom I/O board?
Click to expand...
from what I understand Naomi "1", is a lot less picky in that department.
I'd still recommand the Meanwell QD-150-3A for the N1, but most ATX seem ok for N1. (as for N2 it's picky)
 
The NAOMI 2 is not very picky, however it vital to use a solid PSU and a proper ATX to JST-VL adapter. The one from Irken is very good.

The Meanwell QD-150-3A should also work nicely you just need to source the JST-VL plugs.
 
I've used several different ATX power supplies with both Naomi 1 and Naomi 2 without any issues, but yeah, make sure its some reputable brand.

I'm using a Seasonic for ny Naomi2 setup now. Works flawlessly.
naomi2.jpg
 
rtw said:
I am sure this must have been answered many times before but this is a simple and solid solution.
The ATX PSU is the way to go but you need to buy a quality PSU. This is what I use on my NAOMI 2:

. Corsair ATX 450M PSU
. A high quality ATX to JST adapter to power the NAOMI 2, https://irkenlabs.com/product/atx-to-jst-vl-adapter/
. To power the HAS I take the included power cable for the HAS and attach a standard MOLEX power plug so I can power the HAS from the ATX (I shorten the cables)
. Then I power the Capcom IO (or similar) via the JAMMA edge from the HAS
. I only use the JVS part of the Capcom IO but feel free to use the RCA for audio if you need that.
. I take VGA directly from the NAOMI 2 to my monitor.

I hope that answers your question @And One
Click to expand...
Thank you so much!!!
 
Wow.... so I finally hooked up the HD15 adapter to my V4.1 via doing some testing on my PVM. Man oh man, total night and day between my OG V3.2 running it with the Playstation adapter with component. I also tried plugging in a regular scart cable then into a Retrotink RGB2COMP transcoder. Can someone chime in either is it the HD15 with my V4.1 making a better visual than my V3.2?
 
Photos taken with my iPhone 13 Pro Max using the Pro Cam app on my friends borrowed Sony PVM 20M2U
Left photo: V4.1 via HD15/Monoproce DB15-BNC cables.
Right photo: V3.2 via RGB’s PlayStation hat going in component
 

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RGB said:
RGB video is the way to go :thumbup:
Click to expand...
Man you ain’t lying brother. Now I need to sell all of my Minigun Superguns 😂🤣🤣. How is your stock for those DB15 hats?
 
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Here’s an odd issue that has arisen with my HAS 4.0, player 1 buttons 5 and 6 do not register no matter what I do.

- I have tried remapping the buttons. The led indicator blinks on the HAS indicating it sees the input, but once registered no button press is sent to the game.

- Swapping the p1 controller to p2 all buttons work normally as p2

- I’ve tried multiple pcbs and kick harness types and verified they are working ok separately from the HAS

- I’ve tried plugging the kick harness into the JAMMA extension board as well as on the HAS main unit directly.

Any ideas what to try next?
 
kuze said:
- I’ve tried plugging the kick harness into the JAMMA extension board as well as on the HAS main unit directly.

Any ideas what to try next?
Click to expand...

Were all tests done with the JAMMA extension? If so, please try without. If you're using one of my JAMMA extensions, then check the DIP switch positions for buttons 5 and 6.
 
RGB said:
Were all tests done with the JAMMA extension? If so, please try without. If you're using one of my JAMMA extensions, then check the DIP switch positions for buttons 5 and 6.
Click to expand...
Yes all tests were done with your JAMMA extension. I tried the DIP switch positions for buttons 5 & 6 both on and off.

I have now tried removing the JAMMA extension and plugged the HAS directly into the game PCB and no difference.
 
Button 6 output is driven with a robust external NPN transistor, so it would be strange if it died.. so I have an idea - go into rapid-fire config, and exit it with start. It will reset all potential rapid-fire settings (the fastest rapid-fire rate is often too fast and the game won't detect it, so it looks like a dead button).
 
RGB said:
Button 6 output is driven with a robust external NPN transistor, so it would be strange if it died.. so I have an idea - go into rapid-fire config, and exit it with start. It will reset all potential rapid-fire settings (the fastest rapid-fire rate is often too fast and the game won't detect it, so it looks like a dead button).
Click to expand...
That didn't make any difference unfortunately, but was a good idea.
ShootTheCore said:
Also try the Full Reset of the controls by holding down Start on Player 1 and Player 2 while powering on the HAS.
Click to expand...
That worked! After doing this I was able to successfully reprogram the P1 buttons and B5 and B6 are now being sent to games.

Thanks for the help guys!
 
Will the HAS be in stock again soon? I've been checking the store page for a couple of months now but it's continually said "Sold Out". Just found this forum thread.
 
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