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Home Arcade System

I'm afraid I won't make xmas for you (I'm traveling until new year) but when I get back I plan on selling my 3.1 HAS b/c I bought a 3.2. The only difference is the switch for SCART/VGA out is reachable through the plexiglass. I use the switch a lot and it's easier for me, for most people I don't think there is that big of a difference.

I'm selling for exactly what I paid, no markup, so look for my post when I get back if you can't wait for Q1 next year.
 
archimage said:
add rubber feet to align everything and you're done
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Yeah I'll have a look into some rubber for it.
xtrasmiley said:
I recommend hang the HAS off of the table so it doesn't bend like that.
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If it was just me that wouldn't be an issue but taking it to events is where people aren't careful and another is kids.
 
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hernan43 said:
Received my HAS the other day so far so good. I am using this HAPP PSU:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Happ-15-AM...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I know that some people had concerns about having the exposed mains power terminals(as did I). Due to how my MVS is situated(inside the belly of a coffee table), I was a little worried about my own fingers accidentally turning me into charcoal let alone my kids. I was able to find a sterilite organizational container that fits the HAPP perfectly(11in x 6 5/8in x 2 3/4in). I drilled a couple holes in it for the cabling and it came out pretty good. I'm no electrician but I think this should provide for my safety and allow me to move it around without dying. It also leaves me room to add ventilation holes if needed.

I tied a small simple knot in the power cord to keep it from yanking on the terminals.

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I thought I'd share this in case anyone was looking for ideas. I wasn't looking for Ft. Knox but just something to keep stray fingers or pet paws from causing problems.

--Ray
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What's kind of fork used for your power supply? Link please. THX
 
The Spaniard said:
archimage said:
add rubber feet to align everything and you're done
Click to expand...
Yeah I'll have a look into some rubber for it.
xtrasmiley said:
I recommend hang the HAS off of the table so it doesn't bend like that.
Click to expand...
If it was just me that wouldn't be an issue but taking it to events is where people aren't careful and another is kids.
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for that situation I would not go with rubber feet, I’d go with a JAMMA extender, so you can put it out of the way.
 
archimage said:
don't forget to make vents for cooling, I don't think it's safer when totally closed like this
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Agree, it's cold at home and after a few hours the same PSU was hot, just sitting on the table.

I want to do an eclosure too, but i guess this might need some kind of active cooling and air extraction (or i'll wait for someone to sell a nice home made 3d printed front cover)
 
Catzoo said:
archimage said:
don't forget to make vents for cooling, I don't think it's safer when totally closed like this
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Agree, it's cold at home and after a few hours the same PSU was hot, just sitting on the table.
I want to do an eclosure too, but i guess this might need some kind of active cooling and air extraction (or i'll wait for someone to sell a nice home made 3d printed front cover)
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@twistedsymphony
 
I finally was able to put my HAS up and running and I tested it with a couple of jamma board, everythings works great. I just I wish I didn't forget to order a second SAT pad adapter. Well, next time.
I must say I was very pleased with HAS building quality! :-)
Thanks to @RGB for the great work and to you guys for the suggestions about the power supply.

One last thing: could you be more specific about which jumpers to close in order to use a PS1 RGB cable? I've a third party knockoff which served me very good for the last 20yrs or so, just wanted to give a shot at it. I tried it yesterday and image is out of sync (of course, with no jumper tweak).
 
Catzoo said:
I want to do an eclosure too, but i guess this might need some kind of active cooling and air extraction (or i'll wait for someone to sell a nice home made 3d printed front cover)
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archimage said:
@twistedsymphony
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There are literally hundreds of power supply caps available: https://www.thingiverse.com/tag:power_supply_cover/page:6

the reason being is that DIY and other budget 3D printers use a similar style PSU so lots of people have printed end caps to keep the wires from being exposed.
 
twistedsymphony said:
There are literally hundreds of power supply caps available: https://www.thingiverse.com/tag:power_supply_cover/page:6

the reason being is that DIY and other budget 3D printers use a similar style PSU so lots of people have printed end caps to keep the wires from being exposed.
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I'm always amazed by what you can find on thingiverse o_O

If anyone finds an already MWP-606 (which i guess most people will use here as it's a highly recommended one and i can't agree more for what i've tested so far), feel free to share !

Also, as i don't own any kind of 3D Printer right now, if anyone (in EU ?) would like to print one, i'll buy one for sure, and probably other folks here :)

(or put a damn HAS logo on it :D)
 
I am so disapointed.....At least i succes to find time to try it but I have no signal video....with my cps1...i forgot something?

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i use ps2 câble and i dont managed any setting only défaut. Cps2 normally run it seems no video output.
 
Is your PS2 Scart cable wired for Sync on CSync on Luma pin?
 
There's a jumper on the PS2 adapter to change between Luma/CSync. Also, make sure the CSync (marked SW1) is set to "B" position (buffered). Also, make sure the cable doesn't have any additional components inside, like the sync stripper. If it does, set the CSync on HAS to TTL (SW5). Do you have a link to the specific cable that you bought? I know that RGC sells a few variations.
 
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