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I wouldn't, even if it "works" rather I'd go with a SCART cable to SCARTComponent adapter from Amazon.
The quality on that little device is really very good...

Here you can see the comparison, taken with a PVM14L5 (works with both RGBs and YPbPr) so the only difference is the format/adapter.
6W3AKRJ.jpg


Most noticable is the color inaccuracy, but it's really very minor and is in fact a amazing reproduction in NTSC color space.

"The first NTSC standard was developed in 1941 and had no provision for color. In 1953 a second NTSC standard was adopted, which allowed for color television broadcasting which was compatible with the existing stock of black-and-white receivers. NTSC was the first widely adopted broadcast color system and remained dominant until the 2000s"
 
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Hmmm interesting. The guys over at HDRetro Vision has worked long and true on their product. I highly doubt that this converter can exceed the quality HDRetro Vision pushes out?

But you do have/own this converter so to each is own.
 
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The RGB to component converter linked to on Amazon is a cheap clone of the CSY-2100. The latter being the original product and of much higher quality, especially noticeable in colour reproduction.

Another option which has an equally good conversion to the CSY-2100 and the benefit of audio pass-through is the Shinybow SB-2840.

The HD RetroVision cables are fine but take a few shortcuts in order to simplify and cram the circuit into the cable.

The benefit of the external converters is that they can be used with any system that outputs RGBS over scart. The downside is their size and fact they require external power.

The benefit of the HD cables is their compactness and ease of use, nothing else is required other than the cable. The downside is they can only be used on the one system and the video quality doesn't match that of the external converters.
 
Frank_fjs said:
and the video quality doesn't match that of the external converters.
Click to expand...
Bingo! ;)
zionfarm said:
The guys over at HDRetro Vision has worked long and true on their product
Click to expand...
HDRetro Vision worked long and true?
Plz, they stuffed a converter in a cable and marketed it to dummies who couldn't figure this stuff out for themselves.
dolan_400x400.png


Furthermore unless you have a CRT TV that accepts component, a modern LCD/QLED/OLED either...
  • Won't work at all
  • Will work but look like shit because it treats all low resolution as interlaced source
"240p video signals are electrically equivalent to 480i signals, except for that special timing signal described above. Because of this, improperly designed TVs can misinterpret 240p signals as 480i signals."
Well that and improperly modern TVs were never designed to display progressive low resolution(s).
 
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I’ve seen some consumer photos/comparisons of the HD Retro Vision cables over on Reddit and it’s all a bit of a scam isn’t it. The RGB Hype Mafia strikes once again! :love: :thumbdown:
 
djsheep said:
I’ve seen some consumer photos/comparisons of the HD Retro Vision cables over on Reddit and it’s all a bit of a scam isn’t it. The RGB Hype Mafia strikes once again! :love: :thumbdown:
Click to expand...
They work wonderfully. I have them with various heads (NeoGeo/Genesis/PS). Really clear picture and no disturbance/noise.
 
Tracking all guys. I was just inquiring about the different options I can get the best picture. I own a OSSC, the Retrotink 2X, 2 Sony PVM’s, & numerous scart/component cable sets. Thank you guys for the input.

V/r
Kelly
 
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If you have a OSSC and a HAS I highly recommend trying the 8-pin mini din to SCART cable as the primary means of connection.

That way, if you also own a component CRT... Get the cheapo device I linked from Amazon.
You'll have the din to SCART cable to support 'em both from the HAS. ;)
 
Frank_fjs said:
The RGB to component converter linked to on Amazon is a cheap clone of the CSY-2100. The latter being the original product and of much higher quality, especially noticeable in colour reproduction.

Another option which has an equally good conversion to the CSY-2100 and the benefit of audio pass-through is the Shinybow SB-2840.

The HD RetroVision cables are fine but take a few shortcuts in order to simplify and cram the circuit into the cable.

The benefit of the external converters is that they can be used with any system that outputs RGBS over scart. The downside is their size and fact they require external power.

The benefit of the HD cables is their compactness and ease of use, nothing else is required other than the cable. The downside is they can only be used on the one system and the video quality doesn't match that of the external converters.
Click to expand...
I’m using a Micomsoft Xselect-D4 to transcode from my HASv2 to component on a Sony consumer Trinitron. How would you rank the Xselect-D4? Would I get better results with the shinybow converter?
 
jepjepjep said:
Micomsoft Xselect-D4 to transcode from my HASv2 to component on a Sony consumer Trinitron
Click to expand...
I don't think you'll see a real improvement in visuals unless you ditch the consumer Trinitron for a PVM/BVM and go pure RGBs.
 
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I started to wire up my power supply but I’m not sure that I got the right one. I’ve got a Suzo Happ Power Pro. From top to bottom the terminals are +5V 15A, gnd, gnd, -5V 1A, +12v 2A, FG, AC115, AC115. Is it going to be a problem if it isn’t +12 2.5A?
 
@RGB I am starting to understand the HAS a little better (from use everyday with the OSSC) but I'm still ignorant when it comes to mono/stereo.

For example, Battletoads:

Amplified:
L = L speaker -
10 = L speaker +
M = R speaker -
11 = R speaker +

Switchable via dip #2
ON = Stereo
OFF = Mono

Speaker level output.

Does this mean if I leave the stereo on, the HAS will provide stereo sound out via the 3.5mm jack into my OSSC via the JAMMA edge? Or is the only way to get stereo to tap it off of the PCB? Also is speaker level output safe for the HAS?

I'm trying to figure out how to get stereo for my games now based on the thread:

List of arcade PCBs with stereo output
 
No, it's always mono via the 3.5mm on the HAS, and if you switch the Battletoads to output stereo, you'll get one channel output only via the 3.5mm.
As for other games with stereo from that list, I see that besides the MVS, most output it not via the JAMMA, but some AUX connectors, so you want to use an external speaker level to line level adapter for those.
 
Got it. So for the rare game, like BT or the MVS that puts the stereo out via the JAMMA edge, the HAS has no way to tap into that? So I would need some sort of in-between adapter on the JAMMA edge?
 
You can use the MVS's stereo line level 3.5mm jack to tap stereo. The adapter in-between the HAS and JAMMA won't work, unless such adapter has its own 3.5mm jack for stereo output. I used to offer a JAMMA extension cable with such functionality.
 
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