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Home Arcade System

This is the one I mentioned Mike. Using this atm, it's a bit bulky but I need to find matching feet for the HAS so it sits level.

5DdvVlw.jpg
 
Please also count me in for an extender as soon as it becomes available. I can feel that my HAS is waiting for it already ;)
 
@RGB that looks awesome! I hope your next project will be that device that lets us adjust position (and maybe even size) on a CRT TV via the HAS out...
 
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xtrasmiley said:
@RGB that looks awesome! I hope your next project will be that device that lets us adjust position (and maybe even size) on a CRT TV via the HAS out...
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I'm afraid that won't be my next device. Size adjustment won't happen either, that's well above my pay grade :)

I'd like to kindly ask not to link to other devices (that are similar to my products) in my sales thread.
 
I understand, you are a busy man. Just know, your products are the BEST, so if I can buy something you made, I will!

That being said, I've purchased 3 HAS' so far, and if you were able to easily incorporate that feature into a future HAS version, I'd be happy to purchase a 4th!

EDIT: And sorry, I didn't mean the extender (I'll buy yours of course!), rather the audio/video cables, but I will edit my post.
 
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RGB said:
I've just received this from the PCBWAY:

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This is my new JAMMA extension harness, an upgraded version of the 2016 JAMMA extension harness:
  • Clean design with solid copper planes and no unnecessary vias
  • JST VH and RA series of connectors
  • 60-65cm long
  • 2x16AWG for GND, 2x16AWG for +5V, 1x18AWG for -5V, 1x18AWG for +12V), 22AWG for everything else - all cables will be in black
  • Hard gold plated JAMMA edge contacts
  • DIP switch to enable/disable buttons 4, 5, 6 outputs on the JAMMA connector
  • Compatible with the HAS kick harnesses (and it doesn't require AUX harness between the HAS and the extension harness)


Optional configuration:
  • Black plexiglass case (matte or semi transparent black)
  • CPS2 connector for buttons 4-6 input (only needed for superguns other than the HAS)
  • Voltmeter
  • Test and Service buttons
  • Amplified stereo audio input (Taito F3, Konami PCBs, etc.)


Still waiting for the wiring, but once I receive that, I will begin assembly (up to 2 weeks max) and will offer these for sale. More details soon, but I can say that there should be enough harnesses for everyone interested, and it will be well-priced.
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Awesome harness, will get one for sure! Still haven't heard about my HAS order thou, but I guess March patch is not yet fully contacted?
 
nassekova said:
Awesome harness, will get one for sure! Still haven't heard about my HAS order thou, but I guess March patch is not yet fully contacted?
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Thanks. March was covered a good while ago, please check your spam folder. If you can't find my email, then PM me here and let me know your email address.
 
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Guys, do I need standoffs for all my PCBs? I'm going to connect them to the HAS on my office desk (wood top) but not sure if I'm going to damage unless the underside of the board is floating?
 
ZoomBoy said:
Guys, do I need standoffs for all my PCBs? I'm going to connect them to the HAS on my office desk (wood top) but not sure if I'm going to damage unless the underside of the board is floating?
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you don't need them if you have them on a wooden table. do have the enclosure for the has installed? in that case i would use feet, otherwise the pcb would hang on the jamma edge which would put quite some strain on it.
 
MoppelTheWhale said:
ZoomBoy said:
Guys, do I need standoffs for all my PCBs? I'm going to connect them to the HAS on my office desk (wood top) but not sure if I'm going to damage unless the underside of the board is floating?
Click to expand...
you don't need them if you have them on a wooden table. do have the enclosure for the has installed? in that case i would use feet, otherwise the pcb would hang on the jamma edge which would put quite some strain on it.
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Great, thanks for the answer. I'll try and support the board as best I can so it doesn't sag and warp the JAMMA edge - just wanted to make sure I won't short anything by having the underside touching my wooden desk :)
 
wood should be a pretty good insulator as long as isn't wet - in most cabinets, including candies the pcbs are screwed to wooden boards- insulation is one reason for it i suppose...
 
@RGB I added myself for another HAS during the July timeframe? Any estimate on when people from this batch would be contacted?
 
You should always have standoffs on your boards, and as many as you can fit (especially the ones near the middle). There are three reasons why.

1.)Support. Without standoffs (especially ones in the middle) your board can flex pretty easy. The larger the board the worse it will be. Not all have them in the middle, but usually in the four corners. Most should've had support in the middle

2.)Flexing of the board is especially bad on SMD components and can result in cold solder joints or just lift them up since QC wasn't the best on select boards. Case and point look at ST-V hardware with their SH-2. It has a lot of stand offs placements even in the middle of the board and around the cartridge slot. If you just put four standoffs on the corners you have no support in the middle when taking out cartridges, but especially when inserting them. I have like 10 standoffs on my ST-V for that reason.

3.)laying it flat against a piece of wood you always have a chance to bend some legs on the solder side. Ever buy a board that has a shit ton of these bent because the operator played jenga in a box with them? When the legs get bent on the solder side it can cause cold solder joints/intermittent connections. Probably won't ESD your board since wood but rip your desk if your board slides. A few hundred solder joints will make quick work on a piece of nice wood.

In any case the board really isn't going to lay flat with those solder legs on the solder side. Just buy some standoffs, their cheaper than tic tacs
 
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