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I have an MV1F. Stereo only outputs through those 4 pin headers. If you're sending the audio signal to an amplifier, use the headphone header. That mono/stereo switch controls the headers. You're only going to get mono out of the jamma connector. I think it's only the multi cartridge boards that are able to output stereo via the jamma edge since it uses a slightly different pinout. That said, making a 4pin to headphone jack connector is really easy. The best part is the audio quality is superb and has far less background noise than an AES.
 
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Ruprit said:
I have an MV1F. Stereo only outputs through those 4 pin headers. If you're sending the audio signal to an amplifier, use the headphone header. That mono/stereo switch controls the headers. You're only going to get mono out of the jamma connector. I think it's only the multi cartridge boards that are able to output stereo via the jamma edge since it uses a slightly different pinout. That said, making a 4pin to headphone jack connector is really easy. The best part is the audio quality is superb and has far less background noise than an AES.
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That's certainly not the case with MV1F.

The switch alternates between mono and stereo output from the jamma edge. The header is fixed stereo.
 
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Thank you.

It doesn't make sense when you think about it. The 4 pin header is a dedicated stereo header, it's entire purpose is to supply an external stereo output. The switch has no affect here.

The switch controls audio from the jamma edge, mono or stereo, standard jamma or slightly modified MVS pinout.
 
So if I switch the stereo switch on the MV1f board to stereo will I get stereo out of my HAS V4 supergun through the jamma connector?

Do I need to flip the HAS V4 JAMMA/Stereo switch as well to be safe like the 2/4/6 slots that are wired for mvs?

I don't wanna burn out the amplifier.
 
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Has anyone here screwed their UD USB decoders into the HAS supergun? Wondering what size you used (the manual says DSUB screw locks with 10-11mm screw length but that's for the Saturn adapters - is it the same for the UD-USBs?)
 
Wraith said:
or use HD Retrovision’s PS1 adaptor and their genesis component cable. That’s what I do and the video quality on my high end consumer CRTs is sexual
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I was thinking about that the only thing is I left it at home back in the states. I wonder if their PS2/PS3 version will work?
 
zionfarm said:
Wraith said:
or use HD Retrovision’s PS1 adaptor and their genesis component cable. That’s what I do and the video quality on my high end consumer CRTs is sexual
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I was thinking about that the only thing is I left it at home back in the states. I wonder if their PS2/PS3 version will work?
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it does not. I forgot exactly why. @RGB. ???
 
Sorry, I a bit confused here, which adapter doesn't work with what cable exactly?
 
Yes, if you install the Viletim's component video add-on, you can use PS2/PS3 Component cables. Without the add-on you need the HD Retrovision’s PS1 adaptor and their Genesis component cable. The latter might be a better option, because it doesn't require soldering and you can use the Genesis cable with other consoles, too (using HD Retrovision’s adapters).
 
I missed the boat on ordering a HAT that allows component video on my HAS, do you ever plan on making more? I know the PS2 connector won't be an option anymore but wondering if you had an alt in mind.
 
if you get a quality scart to component transcoder, the results are the same, just a less “pretty” wiring set up.
 
shorjewken said:
I missed the boat on ordering a HAT that allows component video on my HAS, do you ever plan on making more? I know the PS2 connector won't be an option anymore but wondering if you had an alt in mind.
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I might but don't take my word for it, the priority is the newest HAS batch and a few other projects.
 
Great work RGB the little CXA2075 came in the mail today. Soldering question for you and the group. Do I also need solder in the PB, GND, & PR holes? I see in your example that you got two switches soldered on the board, do I need those two switches for mine to operate as well?


Last question what are these little pins called that can help me solder those holes together?


RGB said:
Another sneak peek.

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This is the CXA2075 based video encoder for the HAS. It outputs Composite Video, S-Video and DC coupled RGB via the PlayStation AV Multi. However, it can be easily upgraded to output Component Video (YPbPr) by installing the Viletim's NESRGB Component Video Board. I need to admit that the video quality is phenomenal with this addon.

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48059858602_aefba2e904.jpg
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@zionfarm

49700245528_cb6db758f6_o.png

  1. Cut 3 traces as shown above; bridge JP1.
  2. Install two switches, the following can be used: SSSS222700, JS202011CQN, CL-SB-22C-01
  3. Do not use the supplied goldpin headers. Stick a piece of thin double sided tape underneath the add-on board and stick it to the adapter PCB. Then solder it using some tinned copper wire (use resistor's leg or something). Edit: I just had a quick look at my adapter board and it looks that the add-on board won't touch anything on the HAS, so the supplied goldpins could be used here.
 
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@RGB You don't have any composite/S-video HATs available do you? Assuming you'll make more for a new batch?
 
@zionfarm Sorry, I missed part of your question:

"Do I also need solder in the PB, GND, & PR holes?"

Yes, you need to populate all holes.

@shorjewken I don't have them, but I will make some.
 
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