Home Arcade System

Just one comment to that tutorial - it's not advised to power on HAS without the PCB game (i.e. no load), as you could see the voltage peaked to around +5.36V, that can be dangerous to components on the HAS. Also, if you set voltage to +5.00V without proper load, you'll see that when you power it on with a PCB game, the voltage will drop to +4.7-4.9V depending on the game.
 
@8bitforlife - definitely worth trying the ground loop isolator, it's inexpensive. Have you tried to join GND with FG on the PSU? If you do, make sure you don't touch the PSU cage and audio/video cable at the same time (when they're powered on).
i got a new cord completely shielded no more interference. I also got that ground loop device ill try it with old cord to see if it gets rid of the interference. Ill Let you know.
 
Just one comment to that tutorial - it's not advised to power on HAS without the PCB game (i.e. no load), as you could see the voltage peaked to around +5.36V, that can be dangerous to components on the HAS. Also, if you set voltage to +5.00V without proper load, you'll see that when you power it on with a PCB game, the voltage will drop to +4.7-4.9V depending on the game.
What's the best way ? I was afraid that if I hook up an actual pcb game... high voltage might fry the pcb board instead?
 
I've just uploaded a revised video on youtube
@SmokeMonster Please update your Twitter link as the old video has been removed. Thanks
Modology, great video, some questions/comments though I hope you (or someone can clear up).

Step 8 in the audio portion, you say your 3.5mm is separate to help with audio interference. I think you're wrong on this. If you had a SCART cable with no audio in it, or if you used a separate 3.5mm from the HAS to the TV/monitor, then I think you would avoid interference. The cable you have, for some reason just feeds the SCART cable in with an external 3.5mm audio input. I think the HAS will just feed the DIN8 with an audio, so others can just purchase a SCART cable with audio in it, or if they are worried about interference, just use a separate 3.5mm cable. Your cable doesn't make much sense to me, but please chime in if I have this wrong.

Second, the UD controller plugs. Do these allow 6 buttons (SF style) to be used with the stock NEOGEO output or would one still need a kick harness and the UD plugs to get all the buttons working? If the kick harness is needed, how do they feed into the UD plug?

Thanks!
 
Step 8 in the audio portion, you say your 3.5mm is separate to help with audio interference. I think you're wrong on this. If you had a SCART cable with no audio in it, or if you used a separate 3.5mm from the HAS to the TV/monitor, then I think you would avoid interference. The cable you have, for some reason just feeds the SCART cable in with an external 3.5mm audio input. I think the HAS will just feed the DIN8 with an audio, so others can just purchase a SCART cable with audio in it, or if they are worried about interference, just use a separate 3.5mm cable. Your cable doesn't make much sense to me, but please chime in if I have this wrong.
You are right, I was wrong about the part audio interference. I think the Cable was designed for NESRGB which has sound output interference which is the reason why they isolate audio signal out to 3.5mm plug. For HAS Supergun, there will be no issue like that. It's just conveniently that this cable is compatible with HAS SuperGun and currently available for purchase

Second, the UD controller plugs. Do these allow 6 buttons (SF style) to be used with the stock NEOGEO output or would one still need a kick harness and the UD plugs to get all the buttons working? If the kick harness is needed, how do they feed into the UD plug?
You need to plug the KICK HARNESS cable (that you can purchase from @rgb) from HAS Supergun to your CPS2/ CPS3 board. Without KICK HARNESS, UD-USB or any controllers hooked up wont recognise the extra buttons
 
Second, the UD controller plugs. Do these allow 6 buttons (SF style) to be used with the stock NEOGEO output or would one still need a kick harness and the UD plugs to get all the buttons working? If the kick harness is needed, how do they feed into the UD plug?
You need to plug the KICK HARNESS cable (that you can purchase from @rgb) from HAS Supergun to your CPS2/ CPS3 board. Without KICK HARNESS, UD-USB or any controllers hooked up wont recognise the extra buttons
Thanks, so the kick harness plugs from the game PCB into the HAS PCB and the UD doesn't get any extra wires. So how does the UD get the extra signals?
 
Second, the UD controller plugs. Do these allow 6 buttons (SF style) to be used with the stock NEOGEO output or would one still need a kick harness and the UD plugs to get all the buttons working? If the kick harness is needed, how do they feed into the UD plug?
You need to plug the KICK HARNESS cable (that you can purchase from @rgb) from HAS Supergun to your CPS2/ CPS3 board. Without KICK HARNESS, UD-USB or any controllers hooked up wont recognise the extra buttons
Thanks, so the kick harness plugs from the game PCB into the HAS PCB and the UD doesn't get any extra wires. So how does the UD get the extra signals?
because the DB15 plug supports 6 buttons

DB15.jpg
 
Second, the UD controller plugs. Do these allow 6 buttons (SF style) to be used with the stock NEOGEO output or would one still need a kick harness and the UD plugs to get all the buttons working? If the kick harness is needed, how do they feed into the UD plug?
You need to plug the KICK HARNESS cable (that you can purchase from @rgb) from HAS Supergun to your CPS2/ CPS3 board. Without KICK HARNESS, UD-USB or any controllers hooked up wont recognise the extra buttons
Thanks, so the kick harness plugs from the game PCB into the HAS PCB and the UD doesn't get any extra wires. So how does the UD get the extra signals?
because the DB15 plug supports 6 buttons
HOLY CRAP, of COURSE. For some crazy reason, I counted 10 connections, not 15.. no idea why. Duh! Thanks so much for spelling out something so simple a caveman could have seen it! :P
 
@8bitforlife - definitely worth trying the ground loop isolator, it's inexpensive. Have you tried to join GND with FG on the PSU? If you do, make sure you don't touch the PSU cage and audio/video cable at the same time (when they're powered on).
i got a new cord completely shielded no more interference. I also got that ground loop device ill try it with old cord to see if it gets rid of the interference. Ill Let you know.
i can confirm that the ground loop device stops the interference of the rgb cord you solder yourself that is suggested to get for H.A.S. Maybe i did a shit job? But anyways no more interference with that cord or new one thats really nicely shielded.

For anyone interested
Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AtYuBb3SKHYSX

Is what i bought for 8.99$
 
Hey, thanks for confirmation, I'm really glad that it did the trick!
 
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