After Nichion, I would choose Rubycon based on the little I know.
I personally recommend Panasonic caps..... I use them almost exclusively at work.. for re-capping mainly Chassis etc....Yeah brother , but in my head are only Nichicon brand (it's easy when you have on hand a esr meter to know exactly the value of capacitors you wanna change) ... if you're in my place you will go on the Panasonic or Rubycon route?@AlxUnderBase - I've seen Panasonic, Nichicon and Rubycon capacitors being highly recommended in arcade repair logs / tutorials. I don't think you can really go wrong with either of those brands.
Awesome ... i've compiled this cart on Digikey (Cap Kit replacement for Rev.14 Igs PGM boards) . Thank you Tim for all your time who was spend to give us great infos.I personally recommend Panasonic caps..... I use them almost exclusively at work.. for re-capping mainly Chassis etc....Yeah brother , but in my head are only Nichicon brand (it's easy when you have on hand a esr meter to know exactly the value of capacitors you wanna change) ... if you're in my place you will go on the Panasonic or Rubycon route?@AlxUnderBase - I've seen Panasonic, Nichicon and Rubycon capacitors being highly recommended in arcade repair logs / tutorials. I don't think you can really go wrong with either of those brands.
T.
Sprague/Vishay, Illinois Capacitor (IC)
Vishay and IC are Japanese?These are all very nice Japanese caps that I use.
Thanks djsheep =) Can I replace it with a new coin cell? It's a CR2032. Just tested it on the multimeter, its dead anyways, original coin cell I'm guessing.The battery on PGM motherboards saves book keeping information, scores, settings, etc. If you got a Varta battery, it would be wise to remove it. But if you got a Coin Cell, you're all good to go - leave it alone and enjoy the games![]()
The fabled Illinois, Japan. Just outside of Kyoto actually.Vishay and IC are Japanese?
Yes... I think it is a good idea. I only have one game scanned in so far. If you can scan them in at 300DPI. That would be great.@GC8TECH is it worth, do you think, getting scans of PGM2 PCB's? I have the majority of them (missing 2, I believe) and would be happy to contribute.
The game you have is one of the two I'm missing. So afterwards only KoF98UM will be left!Yes... I think it is a good idea. I only have one game scanned in so far. If you can scan them in at 300DPI. That would be great.@GC8TECH is it worth, do you think, getting scans of PGM2 PCB's? I have the majority of them (missing 2, I believe) and would be happy to contribute.
T.
I have a copy of it, but no scanner. I'll check around with friends and see if one of them has access to one.The game you have is one of the two I'm missing. So afterwards only KoF98UM will be left!Yes... I think it is a good idea. I only have one game scanned in so far. If you can scan them in at 300DPI. That would be great.T.@GC8TECH is it worth, do you think, getting scans of PGM2 PCB's? I have the majority of them (missing 2, I believe) and would be happy to contribute.
Best bet is to measure it at the jamma finger. There should be space to probe the PCB there right on the finger....@GC8TECH Great YouTube videos sir, thanks for them!
Switching gears here, regarding checking voltage on the IGS PGM, I haven't checked yet but is there a 74 Series Logic chip somewhere there? MB or on one of the two PGM PCB's?
https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Measuring_Voltages