What's new
By:

InfiniKey-CPS2

Thanks for all the help guys. I did confirm the right voltage at the 5v point. I also removed the infinikey and installed a new one with very careful soldering to make sure things were extra clean and precise.
A few observations:

I tried to boot with no infinikey. Solid color screen. (Yellow) no coin counter clicking.

I booted with IF, with no solder blobs at all on the key pads, same. Solid color screen no clicking.

I tried every key combination and same result, solid color, no clicking.

I tried the correct key combination and the clicking came back. So the key should be correct since its causing the pcb to react to it?

I guess it doesnt want to come back to life.

My next step is to use the suicide tester rom, and if that works I'll try decrypted roms.

This is a Super Street fighter 2 Asia board. I cant find the appropriate decrypted rom set on the avalaunch site. Any leads where I can locate the appropriate decrypted roms for this version?
 
From memory the Asia version had stuff removed so it wasn't a priority for the Avalaunch decryption effort.

You can install any region of the decrypted ROMs and it will boot though.
 
Thought I'd reply with my efforts to Infinikey a Rev.4 Super Turbo board.

Nothing worked in the end! I tried both the infinikey and an arduino security key programmer with all the right voltages and the pins attached directly to the DL chip. I got some spare eproms and programmed the decrypted rom set in the end.

Trust me to have the 1 in a million board that won't program!
 
I've only ever had 3 boards that wouldn't take keys, all 3 were rev 4 Asia region boards.

No idea why but yeah :( sorry to hear they wouldn't take.

At least it works well with the decrypted set
 
Velyks said:
Thought I'd reply with my efforts to Infinikey a Rev.4 Super Turbo board.

Nothing worked in the end! I tried both the infinikey and an arduino security key programmer with all the right voltages and the pins attached directly to the DL chip. I got some spare eproms and programmed the decrypted rom set in the end.

Trust me to have the 1 in a million board that won't program!
Click to expand...
have you used your setup to revive other (non rev 4) boards? What is your 5v at the chip when you're doing it? I find that it works best to resurrect those boards with extra 5v... I recently had a puzz loop 2 that wouldn't take keys from the other modchip solution, but it did work the old fashioned way with an arduino and battery.
 
@xodaraP I have the same issue with a SSF2 New Challenger asia board set i have. Could not get it working because would not program/take keys. I want to try again to see is i can get it working.
 
DarthMig said:
@xodaraP I have the same issue with a SSF2 New Challenger asia board set i have. Could not get it working because would not program/take keys. I want to try again to see is i can get it working.
Click to expand...
SSF2 is generally on rev 3 since it was the first ever CPS2 game. You'll find it often needs extra +5 to program as @KaPH33n mentioned above.

The solution I found using an Arduino was to remove all the EPROMs from the board so there was less drain and program it that way. Worked perfectly.

With an InfiniKey, not sure how you'd fix it without bumping the voltage which I hate doing but as long as it's not a huge amount and it's not over 5.1v it should be ok.
 
xodaraP said:
DarthMig said:
@xodaraP I have the same issue with a SSF2 New Challenger asia board set i have. Could not get it working because would not program/take keys. I want to try again to see is i can get it working.
Click to expand...
SSF2 is generally on rev 3 since it was the first ever CPS2 game. You'll find it often needs extra +5 to program as @KaPH33n mentioned above.

The solution I found using an Arduino was to remove all the EPROMs from the board so there was less drain and program it that way. Worked perfectly.

With an InfiniKey, not sure how you'd fix it without bumping the voltage which I hate doing but as long as it's not a huge amount and it's not over 5.1v it should be ok.
Click to expand...
So goin to 5.1v without eproms installed you are suggesting?
 
Are you programming with Arduino or InfiniKey? If it's InfiniKey you need the EPROMs installed because the board is getting keys at boot and there's no battery :)

If Arduino and using a replacement battery, remove EPROMs and try programming without increasing voltage. I didn't need to bump mine up after removing them, not having them draining the 5v line was enough to get the keys through.
 
xodaraP said:
Are you programming with Arduino or InfiniKey? If it's InfiniKey you need the EPROMs installed because the board is getting keys at boot and there's no battery :)

If Arduino and using a replacement battery, remove EPROMs and try programming without increasing voltage. I didn't need to bump mine up after removing them, not having them draining the 5v line was enough to get the keys through.
Click to expand...
With Infinikey, i do not have an Arduino setup to do programming.
 
If it's InfiniKey, bump up your power slightly - if currently sitting at 4.8, try 4.9, then 5.0, then 5.05, then 5.07 etc.

Be very careful increasing voltage
 
another method I've found useful is measuring the voltage at the chip closest to the battery... when that gets to around 5.0 you can stop raising your voltage. I found that on some boards that took raising to 5.2 on my supergun's psu. 5.2 at the jamma edge was 5.0 at the chip. But again 5.2 is high and I don't recommend running it that high once the keys are programmed.
 
KaPH33n said:
another method I've found useful is measuring the voltage at the chip closest to the battery... when that gets to around 5.0 you can stop raising your voltage. I found that on some boards that took raising to 5.2 on my supergun's psu. 5.2 at the jamma edge was 5.0 at the chip. But again 5.2 is high and I don't recommend running it that high once the keys are programmed.
Click to expand...
It's an InfiniKey so it needs that every time you want it to boot. He's safer gradually increasing the voltage until it works so he can leave it there safely
 
I thought I read somewhere that the resistor you can find attached to the pins of cn2 on some rev 3/4 boards was there to help with key programming.
 
parodius said:
I thought I read somewhere that the resistor you can find attached to the pins of cn2 on some rev 3/4 boards was there to help with key programming.
Click to expand...
Some Rev.3/4 have a pull-down resistor on the clock signal to lessen the chance of bogus bits getting written, but after loads of testing, I never found it necessary (for InfiniKey, at least). Konosuke's CPicS2 adds a series resistor to one of the programming signals, but I don't know which signal or if it would even help in this Asia board situation.
-ud
 
I think the best thing to do would be to get the board desuiciding with an arduino and battery, just to make sure that there's nothing wrong with the decryption circuit at all.

Also, I've had that resistor there sometimes, and I don't think it makes any difference. I've left it alone, lifted it, everything... doesn't really do much.
 
Infinikey issue?

revived a dead SFZ3 board (REV 7) with a infinikey. easy install. Game booted! was super happy. Played for an hour and shut down the PSU.

when i powered on the PSU, green or black or pinkey screen. Game doesnt boot up.

i need to let the PCB " cool " down an hour and then it works again.

if i quick repower on the PCM, same thing: blue screen.

Sometimes the game bootd up to the main screen or player select screen and then the "suicided screen" comes back.

Rechecked 4 times my soldering, everything is mint...

Any idea ? It's not a A board issue since all my other B boards are working great.

https://imgur.com/rICoVEe

thx

Simon
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top