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erzane

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Hi there,
Someone may sell repros of that 100Y sticker?
Thanks!
_20220222_135532.JPG
 
Thanks!
Anyone else? Id like to compare two or three differents modeles
 
Id like to compare two or three differents modeles
It's pretty simple: you can buy the one linked, or you can get a cheaper one. And well, you get what you pay for. So if your comparison desire is to price shop and save a few bucks then look around, there are others that are digitally printed and look fine. But if you want the best nobody else is putting in the effort to actually screen print these like that.
 
Aurich : take it easy
All : I'm sure hursit do good stuff and I'll probabily buy one of his item but I also would like to compare the other ones availables in the market. Each stuff I buy I do comparaisons by trying from different places, that's my method.
My worry is not the price, 11$ is cheap. Even if it would cost 51$ it should be ok. So, you have to understand that my concern isn't about saving money. Money doesn't really matter. My worry is about the fact it glows. I don't like the glowing type. Can I say that without rising virulent oppositions?
 
Aurich : take it easy
I'm easy man. Just telling you the facts.
My worry is about the fact it glows. I don't like the glowing type. Can I say that without rising virulent oppositions?
The original glows under blacklight too, that's why he brought it up. I feel like you're maybe misunderstanding what that means, it's not "glow in the dark" phosphorescent. If you shine a UV light on it the colors react. It's one of the ways you know it was actually reproduced correctly, the other ones on the market won't do that.

Which is why I'm telling you this is the best one. Because it is.

arent the real ones supposed to glow under black light?
Yes, and it only works with proper screen printed inks, not digital process. It's also more expensive and a pain in the ass to make, which is why almost nobody ever bothers to do it.
 
If they are not glowing in the dark as I tought I missunderstood it that's correct.
If I understand well, the UV light thing is a kind of reaction that prouves that the correct ink is used (same for the hursits sides I suppose)?
But why the black/UV light? Is this kind of light used somewhere?
Also, what is the difference between PVC and vinyl?
 
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If they are not glowing in the dark as I tought I missunderstood it that's correct.
If I understand well, the UV light thing is a kind of prouve that the correct ink is used (same for the hursits sides I suppose)?
Also, what is the difference between PVC and vinyl?
black light. its UV light
 
imbord : Ive edited my post a few seconds ago

Btw, I take the opportunity to have your opinion on the following :
I'm looking for that sticker since I'd like to paint the CP holder. Usually, this part do not need any paint since the natural finish of the white resin do properly the job but mine does have some visible cracks that I didn't succeed to remove/sand off (for example, it was too risky to remove a crack based on the very front side since it's to deep and I don't want to reduce the thickness of the material).
As basis, we know that the whole cab is varnished and the CP holder stays raw. It gives a typical esthetic to these Sega cabs. But the holder is systematicaly the subject to dirt and need to be cleaned (if not polished, it needs to be lightly sanded off). I don't know if this part was polished by the manufacture. But since I've already sanded it off, the polish is the natural way to protect it and refine it proper. Once this part is polished, it looks almost like varnished (there was always a difference between the holder and the rest of the cab, but I wonder if it was also the case back to '93).
Next week my restauration will reach its final stage (I'll post a whole topic soon) and I'm planing to paint that holder and cover it with the same varnish as the rest of the shell. This will uniformize the whole stuff and I'm a bit afraid that it will ''break'' the esthetic/essence of the cab. Did someone aleady choosed to do the same?
 
there are tons of astro city restoration threads on AP. i would look at as many of them as i could. i have never repainted a cab before so i really couldnt tell u how they are refurbished. i took a look at my 2 NACs and 1 is painted and one is not. they both look the same to me. as long as you stick with the same color you use for the rest of the cab, u should be fine. if you did any repair work to the control panel assembly, u will have to paint over it anyway, so u might as well just do the whole cab in the same color. thats my 2 cents, but dont take just my advice. lets see what other ppl have to say as well.
 
Can you make a pics of your two nac with their repsecitve cp holders? I'd like to compare them.
p.s. maybe your other holder was painted by the last owner of your cab?
 
Can you make a pics of your two nac with their repsecitve cp holders? I'd like to compare them.
p.s. maybe your other holder was painted by the last owner of your cab?
One was def painted over.
 

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Thanks for these pics. They are quite exhaustives. I largely have a preference for the one on the left.
It looks like polished. Does it quickly gets dirty? Do you often clean it, especially at the place where you put your hands when playing?
 
it doesnt change much from the way they look now. i dust them with a duster when they get dusty, and i wipe the cp down with a paper towel once a month or so. those control panels are alberto panels. they are the best out there. they are most accurate and do not need to be cleaned often. i play a lot on them.

left is the original, right is painted over. both r from a long time ago. i got both last year.
 
If they are not glowing in the dark as I tought I missunderstood it that's correct.
If I understand well, the UV light thing is a kind of reaction that prouves that the correct ink is used (same for the hursits sides I suppose)?
As I was explaining earlier, Hursit is screen printing his stickers, and the others are process color. That means his are made with solid ink colors, passed through a fine screen, and the proper fluorescent inks, which is why they fluoresce (glow) under UV light. The UV light thing is a test for accuracy, it matters even if you never shine a UV light on yours even once.

Think about it like a highliter marker. That will glow under UV too, but it has a unique look even without it.

Process color is how almost everything you see is printed. Cereal boxes, magazines, whatever. Little tiny dots of CMYK that look stippled when you get your eye up close instead of solid.

You'll never match the original look with that. It can look pretty good, but not actually accurate and you'll always be able to tell under close inspection, even without a UV light.

I'm not telling you to buy his because he's a cool guy. He is, but that's not the point. If you want accurate nobody else is making them that I'm aware of. You sound like someone who's trying to sweat the details and do a nice restoration. Just trust me, buy his while you still can and don't worry about the others, they are literally not as good. Be nice to have them when Hursit sells out, not trying to crap on other people's product, but these are just the manufacturing facts.
 
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