I'm not too sure about that one, I think it's designed to work with a higher resolution signal than arcade boards. E.g. 31K VGA as opposed to 15K RGBS.
Minigun Supergun - An Open Source Supergun
- Thread starter Frank_fjs
- Start date
VodkaGobalsky
Professional
Alright I’ll go with the one you recommended then. It just looked like the delivery was going to take a long time. Thanks.
By the way, the spec for that one says input power of 12V 2A. The power supply I bought has 12V at 4A. Would I still be able to tap from that power or will the extra amps fry the board?
edit: never mind I just read about how power supply and power requirements work haha. The supply needs to be able handle at least that amount of amps. So I’m good.
By the way, the spec for that one says input power of 12V 2A. The power supply I bought has 12V at 4A. Would I still be able to tap from that power or will the extra amps fry the board?
edit: never mind I just read about how power supply and power requirements work haha. The supply needs to be able handle at least that amount of amps. So I’m good.
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No dramas re the amperage, it'll just draw what it needs.
Hey @Frank_fjs is a 3D design planed for the sync booster as well?
and when we talk about 3D cases: a bit offtopic but do you have anything for your SNES2NEO adapters?
and when we talk about 3D cases: a bit offtopic but do you have anything for your SNES2NEO adapters?
Main post updated with SYNC BOOSTER PCB.
No plans for a 3D enclosure for the sync booster, it's totally unnecessary and probably more of a hindrance than useful. It would add bulk and weight to an otherwise light and compact PCB that docks neatly and directly to the OSSC.
3D design isn't my strong point, I'm still learning.
No plans for a 3D enclosure for the sync booster, it's totally unnecessary and probably more of a hindrance than useful. It would add bulk and weight to an otherwise light and compact PCB that docks neatly and directly to the OSSC.
3D design isn't my strong point, I'm still learning.
In case it isn't obvious, use jumper shunts on the sync booster PCB to select between CSYNC or HV sync output.
1 x jumper shunt for CSYNC:
OR 2 x jumper shunts for HV sync output:
1 x jumper shunt for CSYNC:
OR 2 x jumper shunts for HV sync output:
SabreAZ
Enthusiast
hey guys, I was curious about something in regards to wiring for power. I've recently read somewhere that i should run one of the two grounds from the minigun power cable to the field ground(FG) terminal on the psu, which a proper 3 prong power cable is already utilizing.
Is this accurate? I normally combine both ground wires to one spade fork and run it to one ofvthecregular ground terminals. I also see many others do this over the years.
Not sure which method is correct. Help!
Is this accurate? I normally combine both ground wires to one spade fork and run it to one ofvthecregular ground terminals. I also see many others do this over the years.
Not sure which method is correct. Help!
What is the PSU in question? Some have earth and DC ground connected internally via a filtering capacitor, which is why continuity won't buzz through on a multimeter.
the Goat
Grand Master
SabreAZ
Enthusiast
in my case, an RT-65a
^ As above. Exactly how it should be connected.
With the RT65 there is no need to connect EARTH and COM together manually / externally.
With the RT65 there is no need to connect EARTH and COM together manually / externally.
SabreAZ
Enthusiast
right, that's exactly how I have always known to do it. I wish I could find the link I was referring to. A bunch of electrician talk, and there was some confusion in regards to this. Figure I would just come here to set the record straight =)
We might have stumbled upon and read the same discussion. I can't remember how I found it, it was quite random, but I stumbled across an electronics forum where this topic was being discussed. I think it was associated with LED power supplies, different application but same principle.
From what I read, if you wanted / needed to combine earth and DC ground the appropriate way to do it is at the opposite end to the PSU, in our case the Minigun. So one of the two ground wires would run to COM and another to Earth.
But, in the case of the RT65 it's not necessary as they're already combined internally.
From what I read, if you wanted / needed to combine earth and DC ground the appropriate way to do it is at the opposite end to the PSU, in our case the Minigun. So one of the two ground wires would run to COM and another to Earth.
But, in the case of the RT65 it's not necessary as they're already combined internally.
Can it be connected to a VGA monitor?In case it isn't obvious, use jumper shunts on the sync booster PCB to select between CSYNC or HV sync output.
1 x jumper shunt for CSYNC:
OR 2 x jumper shunts for HV sync output:
the Goat
Grand Master
Depends on the sync range supported by the monitor.Can it be connected to a VGA monitor?In case it isn't obvious, use jumper shunts on the sync booster PCB to select between CSYNC or HV sync output.
1 x jumper shunt for CSYNC:
OR 2 x jumper shunts for HV sync output:
the Goat
Grand Master
Yes. The proper VGA hsync frequency is 31kHz. Many VGA CRT monitors will not accept an hsync significantly lower. Such as 15kHz hsync for 240p signals.
Got it, Thanks.
Kavas
Champion
Lots of people using OSSC, but I was going to run this minigun through my gscartsw into my framemeister. Due to the wording on the https://retro-access.com/collection...aflex-8-pin-mini-din-rgb-scart-cable-for-mods cable, I am concerned. Is this still the correct cable I need?
As for Taito f3, since the sync booster is designed for the OSSC, is there no way for me to run an f3 on a minigun to a framemeister?
As for Taito f3, since the sync booster is designed for the OSSC, is there no way for me to run an f3 on a minigun to a framemeister?