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Sorry to ping the both of you at once, this is mostly for @Nearlylogical , but were these suggestions ever implemented in another version? The most recent files I can find on this thread were from your july 28th post, and I'm really interested in ordering a batch of these to put together!

We're finally in talks to start hosting some fighting game locals again come this fall, and I've got more games than PVMs/RGB CRTs, so this would make things so much easier if I could just grab from the pile of joe-shmoe CRTs ive got lying around instead of hunting down and breaking the bank on another batch of RGB monitors. Also, I wasn't able to find any actual photos of this guy assembled/in use. Anyone here happen to build one of these before? Would love to see what I should expect from the finished product.
Sorry I haven't actually tried to build the circuit. I got caught up in leading the programming for the USB2DB15 project and kinda forgot... Sorry.
 
Sorry I haven't actually tried to build the circuit. I got caught up in leading the programming for the USB2DB15 project and kinda forgot... Sorry.
No worries! Totally understand- lord knows I've got enough projects on the backburner to relate. I would still be interested in putting together a few sets from this previous post if at all possible, though unless I'm missing something right in front of my face, that july 28th post mentions changes made to the minigun itself, but only includes the files for the AV hat. Do you still have the gerbers handy for this modified matching minigun you mentioned? :)
 
No worries! Totally understand- lord knows I've got enough projects on the backburner to relate. I would still be interested in putting together a few sets from this previous post if at all possible, though unless I'm missing something right in front of my face, that july 28th post mentions changes made to the minigun itself, but only includes the files for the AV hat. Do you still have the gerbers handy for this modified matching minigun you mentioned? :)
I should still have them somewhere. I'm away from my main system at the moment but I should be able to get them for you next week. They are strictly use at your own risk though...I'm not as good as Frank by a long shot
 
I should still have them somewhere. I'm away from my main system at the moment but I should be able to get them for you next week. They are strictly use at your own risk though...I'm not as good as Frank by a long shot
No rush at all- 'preciate the ping back! These would be hanging around until some time in the fall anyhow, so plenty of time to build, test, and run the "milage may very" course to see if they're good to head into the wild with. Thanks!
 
Is this project on github? I see gerbers but are the cad design files open source? It would be amazing if it were easy for folks to modify as needed (change out connectors for example) and share back changes etc. Does anyone have a version in kicad yet?
 
Is this project on github? I see gerbers but are the cad design files open source? It would be amazing if it were easy for folks to modify as needed (change out connectors for example) and share back changes etc. Does anyone have a version in kicad yet?
The design files are on easy eda. Just log in the site and open the files on the "EasyEda Design File" folder.
 
Excellent - thanks! If I end up making any changes I'll share them back here.
 
I've read conflicting things about composite output. Does the minigun work with a standard consumer composite CRT using a gensis style composite a/v cable with the jumper set to 75 ohms? Or is something like a retrotink required? I'm trying to minimize testing variables as I build this thing.
 
I've read conflicting things about composite output. Does the minigun work with a standard consumer composite CRT using a gensis style composite a/v cable with the jumper set to 75 ohms? Or is something like a retrotink required? I'm trying to minimize testing variables as I build this thing.
The minigun does NOT produce composite, s-video, YPbPr, VGA, etc. output. RGBS video out only.
 
Hello, I will preface this by saying I am very new and inexperienced with arcade hardware so please excuse any kind of obvious misunderstanding or such.

I just tried to power on my minigun for the first time only for the power supply to start sparking. I have the power cable that came with the power supply connected to the ground voltage screw via the black cable and the minigun connected to the 5v screw via the two red cables. Could anyone explain what I am misunderstanding about the setup? Below is an image of the setup that can hopefully help better clarify what the problem could be.
 

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Hello, I will preface this by saying I am very new and inexperienced with arcade hardware so please excuse any kind of obvious misunderstanding or such.

I just tried to power on my minigun for the first time only for the power supply to start sparking. I have the power cable that came with the power supply connected to the ground voltage screw via the black cable and the minigun connected to the 5v screw via the two red cables. Could anyone explain what I am misunderstanding about the setup? Below is an image of the setup that can hopefully help better clarify what the problem could be.
that looks like you are set up in the negative 5V...
 
Hello, I will preface this by saying I am very new and inexperienced with arcade hardware so please excuse any kind of obvious misunderstanding or such.

I just tried to power on my minigun for the first time only for the power supply to start sparking. I have the power cable that came with the power supply connected to the ground voltage screw via the black cable and the minigun connected to the 5v screw via the two red cables. Could anyone explain what I am misunderstanding about the setup? Below is an image of the setup that can hopefully help better clarify what the problem could be.

Probably even more importantly at this point: Disconnect your minigun entirely and take a multimeter to your psu; dial in your 5V as close as you can get to exactly 5V first. If you see that you need a little tweaking higher later, then do so, but dial it in to exactly 5 without the minigun connected, first.

If I'm just going by your photo, it looks like you have the red (if thats your harnesses +5), screwed into your PSUs -5v. You have a case on your minigun, but if you take it off and look at the bottom of the board, the different pins have their intended values silkscreened on the bottom of the board. Plug in your harness and follow the leads/colors based off that silkscreen and make sure you're screwing them into the right terminals.
 
Probably even more importantly at this point: Disconnect your minigun entirely and take a multimeter to your psu; dial in your 5V as close as you can get to exactly 5V first. If you see that you need a little tweaking higher later, then do so, but dial it in to exactly 5 without the minigun connected, first.

If I'm just going by your photo, it looks like you have the red (if thats your harnesses +5), screwed into your PSUs -5v. You have a case on your minigun, but if you take it off and look at the bottom of the board, the different pins have their intended values silkscreened on the bottom of the board. Plug in your harness and follow the leads/colors based off that silkscreen and make sure you're screwing them into the right terminals.
Thank you for the help, appreciate it. Looking over some sheets of instructions that had come with the minigun I see that the red wiring is meant for +5v, on the PSU it has a screw for "5V 15A", just to be safe this is indeed the correct screw and same thing as "5V"? So with switching the wiring to the correct screw and adjusting the psu with a multimeter should it then be ready to tested again?
 
Did you have your board connected when you saw the sparking? Please remove the JAMMA edge from your boards until you are sure the voltages are correct.

You will cause major damage sending the wrong voltage through the board
 
Thank you for the help, appreciate it. Looking over some sheets of instructions that had come with the minigun I see that the red wiring is meant for +5v, on the PSU it has a screw for "5V 15A", just to be safe this is indeed the correct screw and same thing as "5V"? So with switching the wiring to the correct screw and adjusting the psu with a multimeter should it then be ready to tested again?
Yep- again, make sure your minigun is unscrewed from the psu before testing your psu voltage. Once you've dialed in the 5v, you can once again power off the psu, screw the minigun terminals to the correct positions, then test again. If you look at your PSU, you'll see on the label that there is a separate terminal for "+5v" and "-5v". Your +5 seems to be near the top of the psu. Also make sure you have ALL of your screw terminals screwed in, and in the right locations. The pinout for the minigun has 2x leads for Ground, 2x leads for +5v, 1x for -5v, and 1x for 12v.

If you've already seen sparking, however, be ready for some bad news. Maybe you got lucky and everything will be fine, though I would go into this with the expectation of either your PSU or minigun being somewhat damaged now (hopefully one of the two took the punch instead of your nice CPS2 there; that's the worst-case scenario).
 
Did you have your board connected when you saw the sparking? Please remove the JAMMA edge from your boards until you are sure the voltages are correct.

You will cause major damage sending the wrong voltage through the board
Yep- again, make sure your minigun is unscrewed from the psu before testing your psu voltage. Once you've dialed in the 5v, you can once again power off the psu, screw the minigun terminals to the correct positions, then test again. If you look at your PSU, you'll see on the label that there is a separate terminal for "+5v" and "-5v". Your +5 seems to be near the top of the psu. Also make sure you have ALL of your screw terminals screwed in, and in the right locations. The pinout for the minigun has 2x leads for Ground, 2x leads for +5v, 1x for -5v, and 1x for 12v.

If you've already seen sparking, however, be ready for some bad news. Maybe you got lucky and everything will be fine, though I would go into this with the expectation of either your PSU or minigun being somewhat damaged now (hopefully one of the two took the punch instead of your nice CPS2 there; that's the worst-case scenario).
Unfortunately it seems the CPS2 unit took the brunt of it. The B board is perfectly fine, which is what really scared me, but the A board suffered what I believe is a cap exploding. The rest of the board appears perfectly fine thankfully, naturally I have no idea how this would effect the board and made a thread about it in the CPS2 channel. I have to imagine something like this isn't unfixable but that's just me being optimistic. If anything I'm just happy it was the A board, I would have been crushed to damage the B board.
 

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Please post more pics of that power supply and power cable (both the AC cable and the DC to minigun cable) I cant really see that clearly from the pics, but maybe I think you've got...
-5v on the DC side of the power supply connected to +5v on the supergun?
and
Earth on the AC side of the power supply connected to GND on the DC side of the supergun???

So the -5 thing is not the end of the world. DC kind of doesnt care which way it goes (and in fact for decades we thought it flowed the wrong way).
Depending on which model of minigun you have it's likley there are no polarised components - so there is a good chance there is no damage there
The CPS2 A board DOES have polarised components on it. Those are little caps are polarised and they DO care which way the current goes (they cared enough to blow up in this case). But everything else on the A board has a reasonable shot of surviving this unharmed.

Do you have a multimeter and the ability to measure DC current with it? if so we could perfom the following troubleshooting steps in reasonable safety


1) wire up that power supply correctly
1a) start with getting AC live, neutral and earth wired correctly (typically Black goes to hot/live, white to neutral and green to earth)
1b) on the DC side there are no real color standards, But this cable looks particuarly non-standard. From the photo it looks like it could be as follows
Black = COM (pretty sure about this)
Yellow = -5 (this is weird)
Blue = +12v (this is also weird)
Red = +5v
2) test the voltages on on that 6 pin connector BEFORE connecting it to the minigun
3) connect the power to the minigun and then test the voltages on the JAMMA edge
4) connect the minigun to the CPS2 A board and test the voltages on the JAMMA edge
5) replace that cap and see if it lives
 
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