Enjoy your board, when and if this drops, and it's still a big if, you'll still be able to sell it for probably more than you paid for it.
In the meantime while we're all waiting to see if this works out you can be playing APB.
- Thread starter djsheep
- Start date
In the meantime while we're all waiting to see if this works out you can be playing APB.
AlxUnderBase
Enlightened
Cheers Buddy , what MiSTer to Jamma option do you use or intend to use ? Mistercade by MisterAddons , Jamma Expander by Invzim or Mister2Jamma by Aje_fr ? Arcade pcbs aren't worthless
ShootTheCore
Legendary
Two things to check:
Make sure the global audio volume is turned up. Press the Menu button twice and you should see the volume adjustments.
Check the dvi_mode setting in your mister.ini file and make sure it’s set to 0.
lastspaceship
Student
Just scanning this thread this is just what I need I think - got a new scart crt. Rgc cable to hook it up. Cheers !
Yeah I checked those, thanks mate. It's just samsung shitting themselves, ordered a hdmi extractor after testing on my LG and it worked fine. Great, another cable!
GeorgeSpinner
Professional
If you are very familiar with certain PCBs, you will probably find some discrepancies between MiSTer and the real PCB. Some cores are closer than others.Ok guys, they told me Mister was accurate to my pcb's... they lied.
Bubble bobble original pcb with Japanese rom, identical to the one running on mister. The PCB runs 11 seconds faster than Mister over 30 minutes. After 30 minutes of running the games when they are started at identical times, the original pcb ends up around 11 seconds ahead at the 30 minute runtime point. Unacceptable trash.
These are both running on Namco Exceleena cabs, same internal wiring power supplies, Nanao ms9 chassis and tubes. So it's good for comparison purposes.
For real though, that actually happens. They go out of synch by approx 11 seconds over 30 minutes. Gotta say though, you would NEVER tell the two apart to look at. There's just no way you could. Also, on stage 10 if you have all 3 powerups (fast shoot, long shoot and boots) on the original pcb if you fall through the roof and just start shooting bubbles as fast as you can, you can bring this stage to a fair crawl speed wise on the original pcb.... it's identical between mister and the pcb. You can trigger this exact same slowdown on both. I was curious how mister would replicate the slowdown on this stage compared to the original pcb.... it replicates it!
There's a bunch more other stuff I'll test out over the weekend side by side with original boards, a few more things like that where i know i can trigger slowdowns in games and various little oddities.
One thing I was really curious about was if Ghost n Goblins had the blue flash screens in it. I haven't been able to trigger it yet.. Pretty much all GNG boards have this blue flash, i've never seen one that doesn't, so i was just curious if it was replicated in mister. It appears it isn't. Small thing!
https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/ghosts-n-goblins-flashes-on-screen.179981/
Anyways, more testing on the weekend jut because i can.
An FPGA core is only as accurate as the core designer makes it. There is no guarantee the core will be more accurate than MAME or other emulators. Core devs do still approximate some things when they don't have access to the information that is required; Jotego did this with his Double Dragon II core because he only had access to a Double Dragon PCB. The result is a core that is worse than the MAME implementation (I think the MAME implementation is pretty damn good). It's not even close.
That is not to take anything away from Jotego. He can only work with what he has. The point is to demonstrate that not all cores are actual clones of the real hardware. They are as close an approximation as can be achieved (at the time).
Jotego did a patreon post comparing his CPS core speed vs original vs MAME. If I recall correctly, he was closer than MAME but not near as accurate as he wanted to be. He used his comparison data to further enhance his CPS core. Now the difference is almost nothing.
Jotego went the extra mile, but not all core devs have access to the real PCBs or will be as determined to achieve that level of accuracy.
GeorgeSpinner
Professional
I was not happy with the component output of any HD15 to Component breakout cable I tried. The image quality was fine but the image was too dark. I have many sources connected to the same CRT and don't want to adjust the brightness everytime i change sources.
I ended up creating an HD15 to Genesis 2 adapter for use with the HD Retrovision component cable.
I had to put 390 ohm 1/4 watt resistors on the R,G, and B lines. I also wired pin 13 to composite video pin of Genesis 2 din.
I have to run with composite_sync=1.
I'm very happy with the quality of the image.
That's a good compromise, I had thought about something similar, but I only have RGB scart cables for other systems. It was for use with OSSC. My current CRT only takes component lol, what a mess. I do have Mike's RGB2Comp coming, so maybe I can do it that way. A long daisy chain of adapters, probably end up with worse video than just a cheap amazon DB15 to comp cable.I was not happy with the component output of any HD15 to Component breakout cable I tried. The image quality was fine but the image was too dark. I have many sources connected to the same CRT and don't want to adjust the brightness everytime i change sources.
I ended up creating an HD15 to Genesis 2 adapter for use with the HD Retrovision component cable.
I had to put 390 ohm 1/4 watt resistors on the R,G, and B lines. I also wired pin 13 to composite video pin of Genesis 2 din.
I have to run with composite_sync=1.
I'm very happy with the quality of the image.
XtraSmiley
Legendary
I have a normal MiSTer, for use on my TV, not for a cabinet. I wish you had told me arcade PCBs aren't worthless faster, I already threw my Armed Police Batrider PCB in the trash...!
GeorgeSpinner
Professional
Thanks. I'm very pleased with it.That's a good compromise, I had thought about something similar, but I only have RGB scart cables for other systems. It was for use with OSSC. My current CRT only takes component lol, what a mess. I do have Mike's RGB2Comp coming, so maybe I can do it that way. A long daisy chain of adapters, probably end up with worse video than just a cheap amazon DB15 to comp cable.
Thankfully, there is no appreciable quality loss with the RGB2COMP. I'm using one with my real consoles on my CRT that only accepts component. It's a good scart to component converter.
Cant wait for this to be done...ignore thumbnail...YT is annoying me today
GeorgeSpinner
Professional
Did you make any progress on this?
Nope, tried a lot of different things and was forced to conclude my HDMI port was defective.
I had one that wouldn't display HDMI on the FPGA side, on the linux/HPS side, it would. I ran through a bunch of tests with Terasic for 2 weeks and concluded it was bad. Not sure if you're interested, but there are test points on the board, you can test for their impedance value while powered off. My 1.1v and 3.3v values were bad, they said it should be around 1k. The others are my measured values which they didn't say were bad, so I assume those are the value you want to have:
1.1V around 1k
1.2V 1.466k
1.5V 840
1.8V 1.445k
2.5V 1.026k
3.3V 1 around 1k
5V 105.3k
9V 105k
GeorgeSpinner
Professional
This is great info. Thanks for sharing.
