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Mrhide's Egret 29 Restore Thread

Mrhide

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Time to start my own thread :)

Got a msg from a friend (@Barth0lin0 !) with a link to a marketplace add, with an Egret 29 in it, with a "3 digits" price on it.
2 seconds later, I had sent a msg to the seller.
4 seconds later, because he wasn't answering, I was checking our local "arcade night thread" and finding out there was a noami universal that somebody had already snatched.
8 seconds later I found that somebody gave some info which allowed me to google and find the phone number to the place (an arcade Bar that was closing) . Calling it gave a "no service at this number.
12 seconds later, went back to the thread and the Noami guy gave me the seller's cell number.
16 seconds later, Called and she answered! " so you've got an egret for sale"? " Yes" " Ok I'll take, I'm on my way, be there in 30 minutes.

30 minutes later, I was there to pick it up and while taking to the seller, who said "Yeah there is a tv and a computer in there but it does't work so that's why I want it gone for so cheap"... "but you're lucky to be here cause I was about to increase the price".
"did you buy it from a french guy?" I asked. "yeah I paid a lot more" he said.
(notice how I didn't say anything about the price increase !)

so I knew about that egret 29 in Montreal from way back in 2019 ... when a guy was trying to get rid of it for initially 5000$ but finally was sold for ..3000$. I had even called "dibs!" when he posted about the sale!
I posted about it in the old "for sale" thread and that's when the old seller msg me about the missing back door which he might have. To be confirmed in June when he comes back from abroad. finger crossed.

The "TV" and computer that were in it I didn't care about so when I put the game it the trailer, the "chassis" which I guess wasn't attached properly made a "crunch sound":

IMG_5331.jpg


No big deal.

For the computer part, I plugged it in and it went straight to hyperspin :) so ok, bonus! It even had 2 usb keys attached to it with DATA from the bar, including the bar publicity video and the entire documentation for "Battletech Firestorm", (I'll see if I can share this later) which they had a big place with a bunch of pods. A really nice setup, close to Ubisoft's office... then Covid hit and business went dead with everyone working from home.
IMG_5633.jpg


The "TV" has this tube, which appears to be compatible with WG U2000 chassis. (anyone has such a chassis ? :) )
IMG_5613.jpg


The setup for the display was ... a mess.
IMG_5332.jpg


HD 4870 with calamity 15hz drivers, with a DVI to VGA adapter
Vga connects to this ultimate Scart adapter board
IMG_5640.jpg

then scart out into this SCART TO Y-U-V adapter and the Y-UV to the "tv"
IMG_5325.jpg


like I said, I nice mess.

After 2 weeks in the shed,
IMG_5619.jpg


she was brought in yesternight and .... and I don't know if it's the move, the shock from the cold to the heat or just something that I didn't see ( but I would have ) but once down, I saw this:
IMG_5629.jpg


and the other side is weak and could/will do the same any second now
IMG_5630.jpg


little bit of a shock but hey, what can you do but look into the best way to fix that. If anyone has experiences with something like that, let me know please. Friend mentionned "Bondic Liquid Plastic Welder" yesterday?

The other "booboo" on the cab is the "ô so magical and nice idea of drilling wholes for external buttons in a cab that has 3 doors" ... " and while why not, I won't even put them in a straight line."

IMG_5631.jpg



All in all, still a phreaking good steal of a deal after having researched how much it would cost to build a metal cab!
 
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Question please: how is this lock supposed to work? Can i get pictures of the locks on the front bezel?!
 

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the tang hooks into that hole in the middle of the 2 screws. Here's a Pic of the tang. It moves clockwise 90 degrees to engage with the loop on the base of the cab.

Look forward to seeing this restore thread all the way thru to completion!

edit : changed the pic cuz it was too blurry
 

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the tang hooks into that hole in the middle of the 2 screws. Here's a Pic of the tang. It moves clockwise 90 degrees to engage with the loop on the base of the cab.

Look forward to seeing this restore thread all the way thru to completion!

edit : changed the pic cuz it was too blurry

Oh! Easy!! I can totally 3d print that! … if you do some measurements of that thang? 🤓pretty please with a cherry on top kind sir?
 
So great to see more E29s getting restored!

I was missing the monitor tangs on one of my cabs for a few years. I've never bothered to lock the monitor bezel because the weight of the thing holds it down secure on it's own, and unlocking it's just extra steps when you go to open it.
 
Also if you want to replace that repro art holder with a more accurate one @Battlesmurf made E29 Art holder repros that are damn good (only real difference from the original is the art is vinyl instead of silkscreened. Not sure if there are any left or if another batch will be made.
https://www.arcade-projects.com/thr...ders-bracket-reproductions.20400/#post-319952

This goes for @imbord3rlin3 too if he needs a new art holder to replace his cracked one.
he has 2 left last i heard which was yesterday lol

im also gonna rock the original cracked one. i dont mind it and its all original and real. i had a hard time even swapping the locks cuz those r original. i had to really talk myself into doing it lol.
 
.My wife is stuck in New York until monday (instead of coming home today) because of “the fun of plane travels” so that left me with some unexpected time to work on the chassis today. I actually just wanted to plug everything and make it work. Then i thought, wait i have another chassis that is not working, perhaps it would be a good opportunity to try and fix it? So I dig up the box, lift the chassis… and find a full set of caps that i had forgotten! So instead of trying to fix that chassis, i recapped the working one :) Caps were even sorted by numbers! Heaven.

Before
B2144694-5803-4D39-AF62-9C5EE3596C6E.jpeg

With the ever so ecological cap bags
ADB212FC-61C7-445B-A16D-BE9D12E377A9.jpeg

Don’t forget to mark the old ones before starting
D9C20280-885D-4D8C-957D-042EED19383F.jpeg


Always an od one or two
Right is new. Left is old
DD0C0DFE-7DC6-4C67-95A2-D12F131194F9.jpeg

And done
29DE16F9-0281-44B1-A9DE-967F7D875536.jpeg


Putting that back in the cab and plugging it all back was an experience I do not want to repeat often. Not the easiest thing!

let’s hope it still works. Testing tomorrow.

Oh and i bought this today for the cracks

F3F2EF18-329B-45C5-B7CA-1654C6688E45.jpeg


my hope that this will work is at 0%
 
You may want to consider a two part epoxy or JB weld, something than can take some "flex", then sand it and repaint it. The plastics are fragile and carry a pretty large load with the glass and speaker pods, when you raise the front the plastics will get some stress even with the metal frame they are mounted to. When I do raise mine, i always keep it in mind and try to evenly lift it so one side doesnt get flexed too much.

Once I had mine apart I noticed a few of the interior plastic mounting points were cracked/striped, keep an eye out for this, seems like a common problem and will only get worse or spread to others with time and use. Someone made these up which I had printed and used to a good effect. Recommended.

https://www.printables.com/model/115773-taito-egret-29-bezel-screw-savers
 
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Also glad this cab went to a good home, I too have seen it for sale at one point and talked to a owner about purchasing it many years ago. At one point in its life around the early 2000's a guy converted a few of these cabs to MAME cabs and installed those buttons and hacked up the upper plastic control panel for resale, he is around and chimed in last time one of his creations popped up, maybe even a member here or on facebook. I have seen other members here owning these converted cabs, may explain the missing CP in one of your older pix. Battle smurf may be able to help you with the missing panels, he does fabrication work and has a e29 for measurements.
 
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.My wife is stuck in New York until monday (instead of coming home today) because of “the fun of plane travels” so that left me with some unexpected time to work on the chassis today. I actually just wanted to plug everything and make it work. Then i thought, wait i have another chassis that is not working, perhaps it would be a good opportunity to try and fix it? So I dig up the box, lift the chassis… and find a full set of caps that i had forgotten! So instead of trying to fix that chassis, i recapped the working one :) Caps were even sorted by numbers! Heaven.
29DE16F9-0281-44B1-A9DE-967F7D875536.jpeg


Putting that back in the cab and plugging it all back was an experience I do not want to repeat often. Not the easiest thing!
lucky dog! u got an MS9 in there! according to arcade otaku, they came with ms8 inside. mine came with ms8 as well. for removing and installing the chassis ffrom the cab, i fount it easier to rotate the tube to tate so you can get at the anode cap easily. its 10x easier than going over the top from the front. everything else is kinda straightforward until you do the cable manangement. it is critical to keep all the wires together and in a position s oas not to get tangled on the neck when rotating.

You may want to consider a two part epoxy or JB weld, something than can take some "flex", then sand it and repaint it. The plastics are fragile and carry a pretty large load with the glass and speaker pods, when you raise the front the plastics will get some stress even with the metal frame they are mounted to. When I do raise mine, i always keep it in mind and try to evenly lift it so one side doesnt get flexed too much.

Once I had mine apart I noticed a few of the interior plastic mounting points were cracked/striped, keep an eye out for this, seems like a common problem and will only get worse or spread to others with time and use. Someone made these up which I had printed and used to a good effect. Recommended.

https://www.printables.com/model/115773-taito-egret-29-bezel-screw-savers
thank you very much for linking these .STL files! im sure i will utilize these after i repaint the bezel in mine!
 
looking at the picture, I see it cures "black" ...so will do that from underneath and maybe the Bondit thing will help the front.

and talking about pictures: I see that my broken part is not all around but 2 pieces (10 & 11) , where the joint is hidden under the speakers. Nice design Taito!!
( I also see the #8 part ... should have thought about looking at the manual before asking!)
egretsides.jpg
 
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looking at the picture, I see it cures "black" ...so will do that from underneath and maybe the Bondit thing will help the front.

and talking about pictures: I see that my broken part is not all around but 2 pieces, where the joint is hidden under the speakers. Nice design Taito!!
( I also see the #8 part ... should have thought about looking at the manual before asking!)
egretsides.jpg
still good to ask. theres some details the parts list doesnt explain clearly. it is not perfect.
 
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