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Mrhide's Egret 29 Restore Thread

Mrhide said:
Ah! Have much more hope in the jb weld name!
Thanks!
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You can get the JB weld in clear, a small tube, and it has a higher PSI rating as well to guard against another break

https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-ClearWeld-Syringe-25mL/dp/B07D1NX76J/ref=sr_1_3?crid=352UKVELFQ6VE&keywords=jb+weld+clear&qid=1678057060&sprefix=jb+weld+clear,aps,80&sr=8-3&th=1

I noticed you are missing the blue stripe around your monitor casing, I have a huge roll of 3m vinyl that I purchased, I have sold a few strips to other people who needed it, but it may not be cost effective to ship to canada vs purchasing it on a local site. Its out there, 3M 2.5” roll of the #92 Sapphire Blue is a good match, maybe slightly darker than the OG. Buy way more than you think you will need, its not a easy application to get it perfect.
 
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Well well.
That .stl file will be usefull ;)

And the other break appears to already have been “fixed” with bondo. :unsure:


Anyway, this cab is great! Really easy to open and turn (and remove) the bezel.
4555B79E-8E28-4CEE-9C0B-CAB90D6AF61C.jpeg

5D9316A7-28A2-481E-BCE7-4BDC71135B08.jpeg


7966079A-C7F6-4779-9BED-F3C34E36234B.jpeg
 
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Mrhide said:
she works and damn a capkit fixes a bunch of stuff!! like “too much white and not enough black” on this one.
Happy to have foud that kit!
D21B9958-56F6-49DC-82CB-FCD828E0DE3B.jpeg

29BF87FD-9402-4D57-A8EE-B31FC3DDF8A5.jpeg
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is that the original unpainted cp? if so damn that looks really good!
i also think your coin plate might be backwards. for me the yen price is on the left side. its also blue. what does it look like on the back?
 
The cp had been painted…check the 2014 picture in the first page of this thread…

Cp cups are filled with screws right now so can’t look

… and I tried something:
D754EE15-5333-425C-B501-98041F3DE49D.jpeg


And hey, it is holding
48D49C7E-DC22-46D5-AC08-798A522B459C.jpeg

30185729-4732-41AD-B70D-51882D803CBA.jpeg


And doesn’t look too bad (keep in mind that you are now seeing the "microscope" picture view and that it is not that visible in real life)
B22B9206-5E1C-435B-A178-AA7B155DBA8A.jpeg


… holding enough that is to now use the jbwelb and make it strong!
But that’s a story for another day !
 
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Mrhide said:
Turns out 3d printed PLA, just like cosplay foam, can be molded to a curve when you shoot it with a heatgun and let it cool in the curve.

I am thinking to print it in white, wider, and put the black jb weld underneath ? What do you guys think?
95466D43-5F0A-46C8-9C3D-5297907A7EAC.jpeg49C20ABD-F62C-4805-A3BE-096DDD6DE78F.jpegFA498C6B-0D93-43E3-901B-44EE213C74C0.jpeg
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Seems like a good plan to me.
 
Mrhide said:
5D9316A7-28A2-481E-BCE7-4BDC71135B08.jpeg
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I've used stuff called "Apoxie Sculpt" before which is like a clay resin you mix in two parts. If you really want to fix that screw fixture, you can make the Apoxie Sculpt (color of your choice, but I'd go with white I guess), apply it, screw the screw in to thread it, sculpt it to be symetrical, smooth it with wet fingers applying excess where necessaryt to fill in anything, maybe a toothpick to get a nice edge, then wait. After about 24 hours, it's good to go! I've used it to replace the broken screw fixtures in my Sega Versus Billboard 7-Segment LEDs (and cosplay things)

Also have to say, that monitor came out mighty fine... Oh do I spy a Virtua Fighter control panel? Mind handing that over? :P
 
biggestsonicfan said:
I've used stuff called "Apoxie Sculpt" before which is like a clay resin you mix in two parts. If you really want to fix that screw fixture, you can make the Apoxie Sculpt (color of your choice, but I'd go with white I guess), apply it, screw the screw in to thread it, sculpt it to be symetrical, smooth it with wet fingers applying excess where necessaryt to fill in anything, maybe a toothpick to get a nice edge, then wait. After about 24 hours, it's good to go! I've used it to replace the broken screw fixtures in my Sega Versus Billboard 7-Segment LEDs (and cosplay things)

Also have to say, that monitor came out mighty fine... Oh do I spy a Virtua Fighter control panel? Mind handing that over? :P
Click to expand...

I actually tried the Bondit for the screw fixtures that are cracked and sure, it "works"but I don't know how strong it will be though.
and that control panel is attached to the whole game ;) ... so no, sorry :D
 
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biggestsonicfan said:
I've used stuff called "Apoxie Sculpt" before which is like a clay resin you mix in two parts. If you really want to fix that screw fixture, you can make the Apoxie Sculpt (color of your choice, but I'd go with white I guess), apply it, screw the screw in to thread it, sculpt it to be symetrical, smooth it with wet fingers applying excess where necessaryt to fill in anything, maybe a toothpick to get a nice edge, then wait. After about 24 hours, it's good to go! I've used it to replace the broken screw fixtures in my Sega Versus Billboard 7-Segment LEDs (and cosplay things)

Also have to say, that monitor came out mighty fine... Oh do I spy a Virtua Fighter control panel? Mind handing that over? :P
Click to expand...

Apoxie Sculpt is awesome, I have a friend who works in the film industry doing practical SFX and he turned me onto it a few years ago. I typically use it in place of bondo.
 
Mirkvid said:
Anyone looking to repair cracks and holes in a candy cab should check out this amazing thread:

https://forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=43141
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holy shitballs! nice work.
I see he used a lot of metal to reinforce certain areas
I am not ready to make that type of commitment to this cab yet ... I did it for the Egret 2 so maybe some day but right now the goal is to get it in the line up ready to play.

So there, it's done and yes, I hate the black and I put too much of it (I am glad to have put the PLA to cover it).
I guess I could paint it but nha, you'll never see it anyway.
IMG_5750.jpg


The front hairline crack ... will stay for now but hey, if you are 2 feet away, it's gone anyway

IMG_5753.jpg


oh ... and I figured out the handles on the side to lift the cover now ! /facepalm
 
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imbord3rlin3 said:
i also think your coin plate might be backwards. for me the yen price is on the left side. its also blue. what does it look like on the back?
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You're right. The other side has 100Yen so if you flip it, it would end up on the other side (and the buttons would have to be flipped as well, duh)
 
Thats a non-original coin plate, the original plate has blue artwork painted on similar to the original control panel.

The reason for their being two cut-outs, one on either side of the coin slot is that taito offered an optional "TCR" (Taito Card Reader) system on these cabs. this allowed you to load up credits on a magnetic card that would be inserted where the rectangular metal plate is on the front right of the control panel box. and the second cut-out next to the coin slot would have a digital counter showing the credits the player had on their card. The small square cut-out next to the card slot was for an IR window. Not sure what this was used for but I'd guess so operators could interact with the TCR somehow.

I've never actually seen a complete TCR system though I have come across one or two people who have part of one still in their E29
 
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