A
Apocalypse
They are CPS1.5, and there's no known bootleg without Q sound.Muscle Bomber 1 & 2
They are CPS1.5, and there's no known bootleg without Q sound.Muscle Bomber 1 & 2
Yes, exactly that.I would assume a DS CPS1 multi would work the same as the CPS2 multi, load a game but once is loaded it starts that game on next boot without any issues
Or does it not work that way?
It should be a 12MHz, I'll double check it though.Looking forward to your review![]()
Btw. 10MHz A board from the looks of it?
I've sent some pics over to you, let me know if there any good.Can you pass me the model number of one of the Flash chips? I am guessing they begin with 29LV***. I'd like direct confirmation of the voltage mismatch. If the multi is otherwise good, then maybe it would be worth the effort to build a short interposer board to sit between it and the A-board to provide level translation.
It's been said before but there are 2 things to consider:Well, we could just add a small regulator to get voltages down to 3,3V (I don't like using diodes).
Also, does it have "good" roms? Or are they bootleg?
I'm mildly interested in this.
Define "bootleg" better... It won't be running "clean" ROMs if that's the question/expectation.Also, does it have "good" roms? Or are they bootleg?
I made a hack many years ago to play FW with buttons instead of spinners like the MD or PCE versions.Other games like Forgotten Worlds would need patching to handle spinner to stick differences, and CPS1.5 games like Punisher just have the Q-sound 100% ripped out and replaced.
Apocalypse is right here. Driving the ROMs at 3.3V is only one side of the equation. That protects the ROMs themselves. I believe the PCB itself already drives the ROMs at the current voltage.Well, we could just add a small regulator to get voltages down to 3,3V (I don't like using diodes).
Also, does it have "good" roms? Or are they bootleg?
I'm mildly interested in this.