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Such a costly and time consuming "Being as Repairs" ordeal just for the love of real hardware, but emulation still sucks because it cheapens the feel of true arcade gaming experience.
 
Such a costly and time consuming "Being as Repairs" ordeal just for the love of real hardware, but emulation still sucks because it cheapens the feel of true arcade gaming experience.
Hello, Rudy . I dont know if you know , but an multi for this system is available . This way you can still preserve the original hardware if you have more than 1 game and to mentain the true arcade experience . The instructions was writed by master @twistedsymphony , the multi is released by @caius & @Hammy .

If you don't know what i'm talking about , you can check this theard :

https://www.arcade-projects.com/thr...gn-by-caius-arcade-repairs-engineering.13275/

Enjoy :happy:
 
yeah that C5 looks toast.
Your a Genius! Thank you so much!

You was right the 2.2 35v cap was the problem why the board did not fire up and now it does, did not even need the replacement of the 3773 IC because the one i bought was a bit larger than the one on the board and would of been harder to put on.

Problem now is the audio is very very low.
Do you have a good idea what caps are needed to fix the low audio issue? I placed my finger on the variable resistor and it gave me a large hum, my guess the amp is fine?
I'm using the mic audio as an output to get audio from a powered computer speakers, the main amp on this board is gone.
 

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Do you have a good idea what caps are needed to fix the low audio issue?
ALL OF THEM. don't mess around with half measures. do a full re-cap, clean the whole board with IPA and you'll get your sound back and can sleep easy at night knowing the board is safe for years to come. anything short of that is a ticking time bomb.
 
ALL OF THEM. don't mess around with half measures. do a full re-cap, clean the whole board with IPA and you'll get your sound back and can sleep easy at night knowing the board is safe for years to come. anything short of that is a ticking time bomb.
@Nightshademan and eventually volume pots too (see 1 page back related posts) … see this was also changed sometimes along with caps ✌🏻
 
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I wouldn't bother with Volume pots unless they're not functioning properly. they're very tricky to remove and the replacements aren't a perfect fit... IMO flush them well with IPA and leave them be unless they're actually causing problems.
 
I wouldn't bother with Volume pots unless they're not functioning properly. they're very tricky to remove and the replacements aren't a perfect fit... IMO flush them well with IPA and leave them be unless they're actually causing problems.
Ok I'll wait tell i cap it all.
Thank you for all your advice.

My eye's are pretty bad now not like how they used to be like back ten years ago when i did a full recap of my friends arcade monitor.
Do you know of the list of all needed caps for this board? I normally have my wife hold my phone's built in flashlight when i work on pcb's. I do plan one day to buy an electronic magnifier to make life easy.
 
I went ahead and ordered this recap kit that is readily available with everything needed.
I'll give you guys a heads up when it arrives. Maybe i can recap this live for you guys to see.

I feel this should be as smooth as recapping an arcade monitor, just my eyes...darn.
 

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twistedsymphony, I just got all the capacitors off with hot air, now i see some soldering bumps on some contacts.
Do i clean solder "Added soldering" the pad contacts? or do i just go ahead and solder from the tip sides of the caps on the contacts?
 

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it's a whole process. you need to ensure you remove 100% of the toxic crap residue that the caps may have left behind.

After removing the cap, cover the area in flux, heat it up with your iron and you'll see it bubble dark brown or black.. that's an indication that the flux is reacting with the cap leakage and absorbing it.

Next use desolder braid to soak up all the solder and flux that you can and leave the area smooth and solder free.

Finally clean thoroughly with IPA.

you may need to repeat this process multiple times to ensure it's fully clean.
 
I'm going to buy a sound amplifier ic for my NA-2 Numan Athletics since it came missing when i bought it many years back and rather use the arcade speaker as it's main source of sound. Having a PC Speaker connected to the mic jack is not practical everytime i use it, of course i can just splice the speaker wires onto it but rather do it the right way.

My Question.
Is the Amp chip a LA4705 the correct one for my PCB? Just that i saw it on a NA-1 and figured it uses the same type but I'm not totally sure if it is.
 
Thanks for the heads up info twistedsymphony.

Do you know who sell's the input output edge connector hardness? would love an original one if possible and would gladly marry it onto the machine.
 
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