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Namco NA1/NA2 Repair Tips

it's a generic edge connector. as long as you get the right pin count and pitch it will be identical to whatever Namco included in their kits back in the day.

I did also design a 3D printable replica of the key used on the original connectors: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2391981 it's also got a picture of the part number of the connector.
 
I see maybe i will find that kind of edge connection out there.

The key you made like that seems even better than the normal teeth type. Glad to say so far I've never connected it incorrectly to this date "Jamma that is" and was thinking if you add diodes to the power connectors of the Jamma wires maybe it won't ever fry the pcb in case someone connects it wrong? or will this just cause an anomaly?:huh:
 
Nightshademan said:
was thinking if you add diodes to the power connectors of the Jamma wires maybe it won't ever fry the pcb in case someone connects it wrong? or will this just cause an anomaly
Click to expand...
why complicate with electronics what can be resolved with a hunk of plastic?

all of my JAMMA connectors have keys because if they don't: I break off a piece of plastic from some broken or failed 3D print and shove it in the key pin... problem solved.
 
My friend did a full recap and board clean up of Namco Classics Collection 2 - there are still wavy/interference looking lines on the screen - any suggestions folks?
 
Hmm, can you snip a picture of the PCB ? Which caps were used i.e. value ?
 
Bump, odd tip I discovered.
A namco NA1-B will boot unmodified code knuckleheads.
I was under the impression that was NA2 only.
Currently diagnosing a board in attempt to save it.
 
Just bought a Namco NA2 with Nettou! Gekitou! Quiztou! The board works great, but the audio doesn't work off the JAMMA edge. If I twist the volume wheel, I can get interference to come through the speakers, but no actual game sound. The board looks quite clean.

What course of action should I take? Sounds like I should re-cap the whole board, but is that likely to bring the sound back?

Also, what is the difference between the two volume wheels? Is one for the headphone volume off the Namco edge?
 
kyletwentytwo said:
Just bought a Namco NA2 with Nettou! Gekitou! Quiztou! The board works great, but the audio doesn't work off the JAMMA edge. If I twist the volume wheel, I can get interference to come through the speakers, but no actual game sound. The board looks quite clean.

What course of action should I take? Sounds like I should re-cap the whole board, but is that likely to bring the sound back?

Also, what is the difference between the two volume wheels? Is one for the headphone volume off the Namco edge?
Click to expand...
Just check the output of the surface mount DAC, if it looks like sound on the scope, just recap the lot.

The volume wheels also fail. usually down to rust... I think one is for mono and the 2nd is for the 2nd / stereo speaker / headphones??
 
twistedsymphony said:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1z2F4sRwock3JWfkz_vqG48WVBqvE35M_JHAH4G_j0Io/edit?usp=sharing
Click to expand...

I have two of these boards (Emeraldia and Tinkle Pit) that both no longer boot due to the capacitors leaking. It's been a while since I last ordered parts. Does anyone have a suggestion for how I can easily locate the correct parts I need? (I tried ChatGPT to generate a Digikey parts list to search for, but it seemed to flake out when it came to picking the right diameters.)
 
You'll likely want to replace the 3773 IC next to the 2.2v reset cap also.
There's a cap kit list on here. I myself am using thru holes in place of smd because of the pads.
 
[EDIT: Update -- Console5 had cap kits in stock, so I ordered from there.
https://console5.com/store/namco-system-na-1-na-2-smd-th-cap-kit.html/
It helped a little to at least get something on the screen (some color bands and extremely garbled graphics, but it seems my Emeraldia board is beyond skill level to fully resurrect.]







I went through the cap google sheet list and put them into octopart.
I'm not sure it's finding the correct capacitors, though.
Is anyone able to offer advice here?



2.2 µF 35 V 3.1 mm SMD
https://octopart.com/search?q=22+µF6.3+V4+mm&currency=USD&specs=1
Can't seem to find a 3.1mm.


100 µF 6.3 V 6.2 mm SMD
https://octopart.com/search?q=100+µF6.3+V6.2+mm&currency=USD&specs=0
Nichicon UWF0J101MCL1GB


22 µF 6.3 V 4 mm SMD
https://octopart.com/search?q=22+µF6.3+V4+mm&currency=USD&specs=0
Nichicon UUA0J220MCL1GS


47 µF 16 V 6.2 mm SMD
https://octopart.com/search?q=47+µF16+V6.2+mm&currency=USD&specs=0
Not seeing any stock with Digikey for 6.2mm.
I see this for a 6.3mm, not sure if it'll work...
https://octopart.com/search?q=47+µF16+V++6.3+mm&currency=USD&specs=0
Nichicon UCW1C470MCL1GS


100 µF 16 V 6.5 mm TH
https://octopart.com/search?q=100+µF16+V6.5+mm&currency=USD&specs=0
No TH listed?


1000 µF 16 V 10.1 mm TH
https://octopart.com/search?q=1000+µF16+V10.1+mm&currency=USD&specs=0
Not seeing any stock for Digikey.


220 µF 6.3 V 6.5 mm TH
https://octopart.com/search?q=220+µF6.3+V6.5+mm&currency=USD&specs=0
No TH listed?


470 µF 10 V 8.3 mm TH
https://octopart.com/search?q=470+µF10+V8.3+mm&currency=USD&specs=0
Panasonic EEE-HA1A471UP



3773 IC
https://octopart.com/search?q=3773+IC&currency=USD&specs=0
Not finding these on octopart.
Ebay only shows ones in China: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=3773+IC&_sacat=0&_from=R40&rt=nc&LH_PrefLoc=98
 
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