Always what? Are there more than 2 fuses?
Not sure what you mean by cab interlocks. If its the door lock switch i have that bypassed.
- Thread starter JSN_
- Start date
Not sure what you mean by cab interlocks. If its the door lock switch i have that bypassed.
You just wait till the day that zip tie has loosened *ever so slightly* and then you spend an hour panicking and chasing shadows because you can't figure out why the cabinet won't turn on. I think just about every Blast owner's gone through that at one point or another.
@GeekMan1222 had it set before shipping. I’ll try. All these problems arose after i pulled it out of the fedex package and connected it to my cab.
GeekMan1222
Grand Master
yeah Test Point 3 is the positive probe.
Hook your Negative probe to a ground or the larger metal heat sink is usually where I clip it to.
Make sure your multi meter is set to DC voltage appropriately.
Voltage should be right on 180V DC if not very close to that.
The B+ circuit will hold its charge for about a minute or so on power down so be mindful of that! or you could get nipped
You can connect all this stuff while the cab is off if you want when you turn it on you should see the voltage on the meter come up to 180 pretty instantaneously and hold. You shouldnt see any big swings in voltages. (ie you shouldnt be seeing it go from like 180 to 185 to 176 to 180 etc etc like that kind of swinging) It should just come up and settle down at a voltage pretty quick.
Hook your Negative probe to a ground or the larger metal heat sink is usually where I clip it to.
Make sure your multi meter is set to DC voltage appropriately.
Voltage should be right on 180V DC if not very close to that.
The B+ circuit will hold its charge for about a minute or so on power down so be mindful of that! or you could get nipped
You can connect all this stuff while the cab is off if you want when you turn it on you should see the voltage on the meter come up to 180 pretty instantaneously and hold. You shouldnt see any big swings in voltages. (ie you shouldnt be seeing it go from like 180 to 185 to 176 to 180 etc etc like that kind of swinging) It should just come up and settle down at a voltage pretty quick.
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I guess I’ll upload some high res images tomorrow.
Are there any tests i can run on my remote board to make sure its functioning properly?
advans14
Professional
Prob just unplug it and meter each component. It seems like more an excercise of boredom. but that wouldnt prevent raster i guess unless there is connection issues on the ribbon cable. I make brand new repro boards as well if you want to have an extra on hand at some point.
What are your dip settings 1 off, 2 on and 3 off?
What are your dip settings 1 off, 2 on and 3 off?
All on actually. Was working before like this.
The mister is is set to be sending 15khz signal
Wait a second this doesn’t make sense does it?
I had that exact same issue in one of my blast cities. I had to send to PNL and they fixed it. He just told me it was the HV daughter pcb board and that he replaced components on it. I couldn’t get anymore info than that and not even sure if what he told me was accurate. I didn’t really try and pry more info from him cuz I was just just happy that the monitor worked again.View: https://youtu.be/QVxwVvYyYTw
Here’s a visual rundown of what’s happening
Here’s also a pic of the neck which you couldn’t really see in the video.
GeekMan1222
Grand Master
I cant remember if you had 2 blasts or not but if you did you can just swap the remote board and cable and rule that out right away if thats a concern?
My guess is something funny going on in the HV circuit but unless you pry around the board alot more its hard to just say its one thing.
BlinG may have a point though those HV regulating daughter boards can get cranky its possible after the recap that another component that was already tired or stressed out died? Maybe a passive like a resistor or something like a diode.
My guess is something funny going on in the HV circuit but unless you pry around the board alot more its hard to just say its one thing.
BlinG may have a point though those HV regulating daughter boards can get cranky its possible after the recap that another component that was already tired or stressed out died? Maybe a passive like a resistor or something like a diode.
advans14
Professional
This is the same chassis you worked on in other thread? Seems like you did a burn in test. But I agree research the hv areas. There are a couple of hv shutdown and power issue threads. Also the ms2931 manual gives general guidance. Checking the power circuits etc, most likely the part numbers referenced would be off.
