Okay. I might have a problem with my stick wiring then. The joystick movement is recognized in the boot menu, but not the buttons.
- Thread starter Raph_friend
- Start date
Raph_friend
Grand Master
You can join us on Discord for support.
Raph_friend
Grand Master
Hi guys, today i will present the USB2DB15 Consolization Ver.
It was asked for alot of people that work on this kind of project where turn a CPS2/3 on a console style, like @avramce OMVS.
Extra features that are not present on DB15 Ver.:
- 20 pins brook cable standard and redundance on screw terminals (will be present on the final version)
- Pins forLED
- Pins for USB
- Pins for memory reset
Just like the 2.0 (All-in-one) PCB, it will be exclusive for supporters for a while, so if you need one, just enter in touch.
It was asked for alot of people that work on this kind of project where turn a CPS2/3 on a console style, like @avramce OMVS.
Extra features that are not present on DB15 Ver.:
- 20 pins brook cable standard and redundance on screw terminals (will be present on the final version)
- Pins forLED
- Pins for USB
- Pins for memory reset
Just like the 2.0 (All-in-one) PCB, it will be exclusive for supporters for a while, so if you need one, just enter in touch.
Attachments
I'm trying to wrap my mind around how I would design a case. The problem is, there are no screw holes to hold it down or notches to brace against. If I go with my normal design, trying to plug in the USB would shove the board out the other side. Maybe I could design something where the two halves clamp down on the board using four screws? I don't know what the button does, but I assume users need access to it. I don't have one, so it's hard to verify any of this.
Ideally the board could be designed to fit in the molded case the undamned adapters use (and somebody finds the source for those).
https://paradisearcadeshop.com/products/undamned-db15-usb-decoder
Raph_friend
Grand Master
If you look well the PCB, there's holes for screws.
You can design your own if you like, it's open source.
Those look more like pin holes than screw holes. What size screw is intended?
What do I use to view .brd or .sch file? Autodesk Eagle maybe? I should be able to get measurements off of that, but it'll be a cold day in hell before I do business with Autodesk again.
Attached is a photo of the kind of case design I would normally do.
What do I use to view .brd or .sch file? Autodesk Eagle maybe? I should be able to get measurements off of that, but it'll be a cold day in hell before I do business with Autodesk again.
Attached is a photo of the kind of case design I would normally do.
Attachments
Raph_friend
Grand Master
That's right, Eagle.
You don't need that size of hole for a small PCB.
A professional 3D designer will know how to make it right.
You don't need that size of hole for a small PCB.
A professional 3D designer will know how to make it right.
LD Dark Schneider
Student
I was looking for just that! How can I enter Batch 5? I sent a private message to @Raph_friend is this the correct procedure?
Raph_friend
Grand Master
LD Dark Schneider
Student
Ok, Thank you!
Raph_friend
Grand Master
After 3 months of playing “internet scavenger hunt” I have managed to assemble all the parts to start building one of these.
To give you an idea how crippling the global component shortage is; There are 9 different suppliers in this pile, most of this stuff is now out of stock at all of them. For a hobby that’s ok. For anyone trying to run a business it must be very hard right now.
Many of the parts (tant caps in particular) come in weird packages that are designed for pick and place and wave soldering. I also had to order non-standard sizes to work around stock shortages. The 4.7uf cap in particular is absurdly oversized but it was the only one I could get in that value. All of these factors meant that the fabrication took a lot longer then I thought. As you can see I had to get “creative” to shoehorn oversized components in.
Anyway so after a couple of hours of slightly challenging soldering I think I’m done with hardware fabrication.
Tomorrow I start on programming the ardunos.
To give you an idea how crippling the global component shortage is; There are 9 different suppliers in this pile, most of this stuff is now out of stock at all of them. For a hobby that’s ok. For anyone trying to run a business it must be very hard right now.
Many of the parts (tant caps in particular) come in weird packages that are designed for pick and place and wave soldering. I also had to order non-standard sizes to work around stock shortages. The 4.7uf cap in particular is absurdly oversized but it was the only one I could get in that value. All of these factors meant that the fabrication took a lot longer then I thought. As you can see I had to get “creative” to shoehorn oversized components in.
Anyway so after a couple of hours of slightly challenging soldering I think I’m done with hardware fabrication.
Tomorrow I start on programming the ardunos.
Raph_friend
Grand Master
This one is absolutely a labor of love, huge thanks to @Raph_friend and the team for releasing the helper board and code.
I’ve learned a massive amount from being able to see how the magic happens.
I hope things get back to normal with components soon - keep up the good work! What you do is valued and appreciated!
I did some work on a case for this tonight - this was the first time that I've done a case for a multi-board product. Some parts that I thought would be hard turned out to be easy, some parts that I thought would be easy turned out to be hard.
I've settled into a workflow where I kind of draft them out first, do a test print to make sure everything lines up, then fill in all the details later.
This is how the draft looks - I'll print it tomorrow and see if it works
Because of the shape of the helper board and the nature of the project (being a 3 board stack) I had to do some thinking about how I could hold it all together - the holes in the board are 1mm and I didnt have any M1 bolts. In the end I designed it to kind of clamp down around the board (the red bits in the pic) This really only works because the USB-A port sticks out so far.
The Arduino USB shield is the most expensive and difficult part of this project to get for me. I didnt want to accidentally rip the port off the board, so the blue strain relief should keep everything nice and snug
I've settled into a workflow where I kind of draft them out first, do a test print to make sure everything lines up, then fill in all the details later.
This is how the draft looks - I'll print it tomorrow and see if it works
Because of the shape of the helper board and the nature of the project (being a 3 board stack) I had to do some thinking about how I could hold it all together - the holes in the board are 1mm and I didnt have any M1 bolts. In the end I designed it to kind of clamp down around the board (the red bits in the pic) This really only works because the USB-A port sticks out so far.
The Arduino USB shield is the most expensive and difficult part of this project to get for me. I didnt want to accidentally rip the port off the board, so the blue strain relief should keep everything nice and snug
Raph_friend
Grand Master
You can try Fusion 360 for more precise results.
Thanks! I’ve reached the local maxima of Sketchup Make and am stuck there. F360 is my next learning journey.
Rev 2 was much better. All the major bits are in the right place now. I will polish it up a bit and release.
My creative vision for this one was “black box”. I think I nailed the brief. I’ll try and pretty it up with some words or something for the next version.
