I also remixed the original case as it didn't fit the BOM I bought so if the original fitment is an issue, this new case may help. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5804175
Open Source USB2DB15 for Supergun adapter
- Thread starter Raph_friend
- Start date
This is a great tip. The most inexpensive 500Ω 0805 resistor on Digikey is $2.94.
This 510Ω 0805 resistor is $0.10: RT0805FRE07510RL
Another great tip.
I had to make an order from Tayda Electronics for other stuff that is only available there, so was able to swoop up the DB15 and LED's from there. I have dupont male/female cables so hoping that can program everything correctly.
And yet another great tip. You are 3/3 and got the hat trick.
I am just using this for a small footprint test bench setup. It doesn't have to look nice; just functional. Great effort however. It doesn't go unnoticed.
Raph_friend
Grand Master
Attachments
Lemony Vengeance
Champion
lol how the hell did I miss this?
astro_zombie138
Champion
Does this support the new 8bitdo neogeo controllers? They won't work on UD boards currently.
Raph_friend
Grand Master
Hey, since 8bitdo controller has a really messy HID driver, we have issues to make 8bitdo controllers work on USB2DB15, that's why we don't have native suport for 2.4Ghz controllers, like M30 and the new NEOGEO controoler. That's why we are working on a new firmware implementation to make these controllers work, with @Nearlylogical as our main coder. We just don't know when it will me ready.
astro_zombie138
Champion
I figured that was the case. That's awesome news it is being addressed! When that gets implemented I'll definitely be snatching one up. Thank you for responding!
Raph_friend
Grand Master
I've got a workaround for this temporary snag. You could try using the Brook Wingman XB2 adapter alongside a USB2DB15. The cool thing about the Brook Wingman XB2 is that it supports 8Bitdo controllers and will soon hook up with Neo Geo too. This combo might just broaden the types of devices or connections you can use.
astro_zombie138
Champion
I appreciate the suggestion! I have a few of those for various consoles and they do their job for sure. At the same I really don't want to chain adapters together. I was looking for a simple solution this would require 3 adapters in place and extend out quite a bit from the supergun. It's just a lot sticking out from the pcb jamma connector.
astro_zombie138
Champion
Did these ever get updated to work with 8bitdo controllers?
Shin
Student
not yet, I don't think so no.
你是阿勋？
I was thinking of trying to assemble this one, since it would be very handy for the Minigun I just built, but I randomly found the post in the HAS thread about the backwards transistor - am I correct in thinking that current Gerbers still have this problem? Is there an easy fix for this like an equivalent transistor with reverse pinout? Should I even care if I'm not going to use it for HAS?
https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/home-arcade-system.332/page-208#post-427399
https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/home-arcade-system.332/page-208#post-427399
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Raph_friend
Grand Master
So I finally tried to make this one, but so far I'm not having any luck in getting this to work. Tried with every USB controller I own (two of which are explicitly listed as supported: Buffalo USB SNES gamepad and Logitech F310) and I'm not getting any inputs on the supergun side, no matter what I do the diode glows green (but I actually have no idea which way it was supposed to be soldered since as far as I can tell it's not documented, so for all I know this is actually red - the voltage is across the center and the pin closer to the edge of the PCB). I have the jumper SJ1 closed, and another jumper from the board to the USB shield as documented on github, including the broken trace (which I verified is broken with a multimeter). It's the first time I tried programming an Arduino but this seemeingly worked without problems (I made sure with a blink example first, changing the delay to make sure I actually do something).
Any ideas what to check/try to debug this? Stacking the shield on top of the Arduino didn't turn out to be the best (a little uneven and as it was mentioned earlier, had to desolder the reset button to even fit, and some joints aren't the prettiest), but multimeter shows continuity between top and bottom so I would assume soldering job isn't the issue. EDIT: now that I think about it it's not a very useful test since I probably just verified the continuity of the connector pins
Fun fact, PCBWay did not like "Made in Japan" on the silkscreen and requested to remove it, since otherwise it could cause problems with customs since boards are actually made in China - they removed that by themselves though, didn't have to fiddle with gerber files thankfully
Any ideas what to check/try to debug this? Stacking the shield on top of the Arduino didn't turn out to be the best (a little uneven and as it was mentioned earlier, had to desolder the reset button to even fit, and some joints aren't the prettiest), but multimeter shows continuity between top and bottom so I would assume soldering job isn't the issue. EDIT: now that I think about it it's not a very useful test since I probably just verified the continuity of the connector pins
Fun fact, PCBWay did not like "Made in Japan" on the silkscreen and requested to remove it, since otherwise it could cause problems with customs since boards are actually made in China - they removed that by themselves though, didn't have to fiddle with gerber files thankfully
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Some of the joints on the bottom looks suspect. If you can see the via pad, it usually means the solder didn't flow that well. Double check all the joints. The DB15 solder and your Hat soldering looks really good. And for SJ1, that disables the 5v circuit protection. If you know this and bridged it, then you're fine. I did SJ2 personally.So I finally tried to make this one, but so far I'm not having any luck in getting this to work. Tried with every USB controller I own (two of which are explicitly listed as supported: Buffalo USB SNES gamepad and Logitech F310) and I'm not getting any inputs on the supergun side, no matter what I do the diode glows green (but I actually have no idea which way it was supposed to be soldered since as far as I can tell it's not documented, so for all I know this is actually red - the voltage is across the center and the pin closer to the edge of the PCB). I have the jumper SJ1 closed, and another jumper from the board to the USB shield as documented on github, including the broken trace (which I verified is broken with a multimeter). It's the first time I tried programming an Arduino but this seemeingly worked without problems (I made sure with a blink example first, changing the delay to make sure I actually do something).
Any ideas what to check/try to debug this? Stacking the shield on top of the Arduino didn't turn out to be the best (a little uneven and as it was mentioned earlier, had to desolder the reset button to even fit, and some joints aren't the prettiest), but multimeter shows continuity between top and bottom so I would assume soldering job isn't the issue. EDIT: now that I think about it it's not a very useful test since I probably just verified the continuity of the connector pins
Fun fact, PCBWay did not like "Made in Japan" on the silkscreen and requested to remove it, since otherwise it could cause problems with customs since boards are actually made in China - they removed that by themselves though, didn't have to fiddle with gerber files thankfully
Raph_friend
Grand Master
Hey man, sorry about the delay.So I finally tried to make this one, but so far I'm not having any luck in getting this to work. Tried with every USB controller I own (two of which are explicitly listed as supported: Buffalo USB SNES gamepad and Logitech F310) and I'm not getting any inputs on the supergun side, no matter what I do the diode glows green (but I actually have no idea which way it was supposed to be soldered since as far as I can tell it's not documented, so for all I know this is actually red - the voltage is across the center and the pin closer to the edge of the PCB). I have the jumper SJ1 closed, and another jumper from the board to the USB shield as documented on github, including the broken trace (which I verified is broken with a multimeter). It's the first time I tried programming an Arduino but this seemeingly worked without problems (I made sure with a blink example first, changing the delay to make sure I actually do something).
Any ideas what to check/try to debug this? Stacking the shield on top of the Arduino didn't turn out to be the best (a little uneven and as it was mentioned earlier, had to desolder the reset button to even fit, and some joints aren't the prettiest), but multimeter shows continuity between top and bottom so I would assume soldering job isn't the issue. EDIT: now that I think about it it's not a very useful test since I probably just verified the continuity of the connector pins
Fun fact, PCBWay did not like "Made in Japan" on the silkscreen and requested to remove it, since otherwise it could cause problems with customs since boards are actually made in China - they removed that by themselves though, didn't have to fiddle with gerber files thankfully
I've been super busy lately, so I don’t get to check the forum much. If you need me, it’s easier to find me on the RF Projects Discord server.
I designed this board to be really easy to assemble and get working, so I’m surprised you’re having trouble. Try this: connect the FTDI, open the Serial Monitor in Arduino IDE, set it to 115200 BAUD, and see if anything shows up on the debug screen.
Honestly, PCBway gave me so much trouble that I stopped using them. I’ve switched to JLCPCB and haven’t had a single issue in all these years.
Second time's the charm!
That being said, I'm not sure what did I do differently this time - your advice about the serial monitor came already after I commited some desoldering crimes on the first attempt so we'll never know I also redid the joints that looked suspect the first time (including the ones you pointed out) but it didn't seem to change anything.
For the second attempt I just took a new PCB and reused most of the components from the first one, but I sourced an Arduino clone locally instead of one from Aliexpress (it wasn't even more expensive) and I bought the host shield from a different Aliexpress seller (in this case I don't think you can get them from anywhere else), but who knows if that mattered or not. Maybe my soldering on the pin headers was marginally better but I doubt it. I also didn't populate optional tantalum capacitors, mostly because I cracked one when desoldering, and you will notice that for C1 I got creative because I cracked this one as well (and I only bought 1 from digikey last time lmao).
So thanks for coming up with this project, pretty sure it's the first time I programmed an Arduino to do something useful
There's just one thing left that's bugging me, the diode seems to glow red no matter whether the controller is connected or not. Although it's of course possible I have it backwards so maybe it's just always green, but the question remains - what is the diode colours supposed to mean then and in what situations does it actually change?
That being said, I'm not sure what did I do differently this time - your advice about the serial monitor came already after I commited some desoldering crimes on the first attempt so we'll never know
I also redid the joints that looked suspect the first time (including the ones you pointed out) but it didn't seem to change anything.For the second attempt I just took a new PCB and reused most of the components from the first one, but I sourced an Arduino clone locally instead of one from Aliexpress (it wasn't even more expensive) and I bought the host shield from a different Aliexpress seller (in this case I don't think you can get them from anywhere else), but who knows if that mattered or not. Maybe my soldering on the pin headers was marginally better but I doubt it. I also didn't populate optional tantalum capacitors, mostly because I cracked one when desoldering, and you will notice that for C1 I got creative because I cracked this one as well (and I only bought 1 from digikey last time lmao).
So thanks for coming up with this project, pretty sure it's the first time I programmed an Arduino to do something useful
There's just one thing left that's bugging me, the diode seems to glow red no matter whether the controller is connected or not. Although it's of course possible I have it backwards so maybe it's just always green, but the question remains - what is the diode colours supposed to mean then and in what situations does it actually change?
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Raph_friend
Grand Master
Sorry abour the delay!Second time's the charm!
That being said, I'm not sure what did I do differently this time - your advice about the serial monitor came already after I commited some desoldering crimes on the first attempt so we'll never know
For the second attempt I just took a new PCB and reused most of the components from the first one, but I sourced an Arduino clone locally instead of one from Aliexpress (it wasn't even more expensive) and I bought the host shield from a different Aliexpress seller (in this case I don't think you can get them from anywhere else), but who knows if that mattered or not. Maybe my soldering on the pin headers was marginally better but I doubt it. I also didn't populate optional tantalum capacitors, mostly because I cracked one when desoldering, and you will notice that for C1 I got creative because I cracked this one as well (and I only bought 1 from digikey last time lmao).
So thanks for coming up with this project, pretty sure it's the first time I programmed an Arduino to do something useful
There's just one thing left that's bugging me, the diode seems to glow red no matter whether the controller is connected or not. Although it's of course possible I have it backwards so maybe it's just always green, but the question remains - what is the diode colours supposed to mean then and in what situations does it actually change?
You can try to flip the LED and see if it solves the color, the main one is green, red means the code is accessing the memory for remap or reset it.