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PS1 Namco Arcade Stick Mods

NPC-102.jpg


I've wanted to mod my Namco stick with the GP2040-CE so I figured the fastest way would be to create a custom PCB. It allows to use Sanwa, Seimitsu, and of course the original Namco buttons.

Parts needed:
  • Raspberry Pi Pico
  • 5-pin and 8-pin connectors are S5B-XH-A-1 and S8B-XH-A-1 (optional, you can just solder wires directly to the PCB)

Required only if you want the USB host functionality:
  • R1 and R2 are generic 22R 0603 resistors
  • F1 is MF-PSMF050X-2
  • USB-A uses a generic footprint, most through-hole USB-A connectors should fit just fine

Information on how to flash the Pico - https://gp2040-ce.info/installation

You'll need to change the button layout, so remember where you wire PIN17, because by default it's "S2", which is required to enter the Web Config.

Enjoy :)
 

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RGB said:
This took some time. I made the mistake of ordering the buttons from Aliexpress thinking they would somehow end up being legit; they were obviously counterfeit. I just got the legit ones from SmallCab and immediately modded the stick…
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Nice! Do you offer this PCB for sale?
 
For years I used a Sanwa JLF 2lb. spring in this stick, but it was starting to feel too heavy given the throw distance, especially for fighters. I swapped in a Seimitsu LS-55 spring, and I really like it. It's a better fit since the diameter is much closer to stock than a standard JLF spring, plus it's just slightly stiffer than a JLF 1lb., so it's better for shmups, which I tend to play more of on PS1 than fighters. It's fine for fighters too, unless you need that stock JLF broken-in feel. Hopefully this helps folks in a similar situation.
 
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What can I do to make this stick feel more like a JLF?

I find dashing sometimes can be troublesome (have to tap directions twice faster than a regular JLF) but unsure if this is just an issue with microswitches on the joystick going out. I don't mind the stock stick apart from dashing issue, but was thinking of using some Omron V-16-3CS's as they are rated of a operating force of 200gf - have read about the positive feedback for the D44x's but would like to keep it close to a JLF as possible but unsure if they'd be an easy replacement.

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Martyken said:
What can I do to make this stick feel more like a JLF?

I find dashing sometimes can be troublesome (have to tap directions twice faster than a regular JLF) but unsure if this is just an issue with microswitches on the joystick going out. I don't mind the stock stick apart from dashing issue, but was thinking of using some Omron V-16-3CS's as they are rated of a operating force of 200gf - have read about the positive feedback for the D44x's but would like to keep it close to a JLF as possible but unsure if they'd be an easy replacement.

​

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If you haven't modded it, start with getting a stock JLF 1 lb. spring. If that doesn't get you there, I think you can swap in a JLF, but that requires a bit of extra mod work.
 
daskrabs said:
If you haven't modded it, start with getting a stock JLF 1 lb. spring. If that doesn't get you there, I think you can swap in a JLF, but that requires a bit of extra mod work.
Click to expand...
Do I have to do anything to the spring itself or can I just drop it in?

Don't really have any issues outside of playing anime fighters, feels like double tapping the stick to dash sometimes does not work and the input does not get read.
 
Had some time today to open my stick up but I can't bloody get the c-clip off the joystick ;(

Seems there's like no gaps to wedge in a flathead compared to the clips on other sticks, what sorcery did you guys use to remove yours?
 
JohnRambo'sKnife said:
Try using a very small flathead like those free ones you get with some electronics orders. Curved dental picks also work. I put a popsicle stick under the clip to prevent marring anything when I remove it. You can also buy special clip removal tools as well.

View: https://youtu.be/LETdAR2gDUI?si=VFQSZ0n0TidGUPnF
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finally got around to it even though admittedly its took me longer than it should :D

you mentioned on the first page installing a jlf washer, abit confused on where exactly it should go - as if i place it on the backside of the plate before mounting the stick theres not enough clearance for the pivot, unless i need to remove the gate and install it somewhere there?
 
RGB said:
This took some time. I made the mistake of ordering the buttons from Aliexpress thinking they would somehow end up being legit; they were obviously counterfeit. I just got the legit ones from SmallCab and immediately modded the stick:

namco.jpg



Here is my GP2040-CE pin mapping:
s.png
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RGB, thank you for sharing your gerbers for the PCB! I'm going to try your PCB in my Namco stick. Curious, how in the heck did you squeeze the JLF in there? :)
 
digitron said:
RGB, thank you for sharing your gerbers for the PCB! I'm going to try your PCB in my Namco stick. Curious, how in the heck did you squeeze the JLF in there? :)
Click to expand...
Awesome, please share the results :D

The JLF needs some modding to fit:
  • Unscrew and remove the metal plate.
  • Replace the JLF shaft with the Namco shaft.
  • Trim the top (narrow part) of the JLF actuator. The wide part that contacts the switches must end up at the same height as in an unmodded JLF, so measure that first on an untouched JLF for reference. In my case, the trimmed actuator ended up exactly 11 mm tall.
Untouched and trimmed photos:
55095713953_9dae304ff2_z.jpg
55095713968_ebd2e87a9c_z.jpg
 
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I drilled out the holes on an old JLF base and cut the tabs off. RGB, you got me pointed in the right direction with using the stock Namco shaft. The pivot, spring, actuator from the Namco stick all fit fine in the JLF base. Imagine fitting a LS-32 in this thing, it would be splendid :D. Wish I was good with CAD, I would design a 3d printed LS-32 base for it.

Housing is 100% original, didn't have to put the dremel to the case. It's nice to have a compact desktop stick laying around. :)

l9GbGq2.jpeg

aQSqZOt.jpeg

X4gRjaT.jpeg
 
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