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a10pilot

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Hi everyone, I found this listing for a 29" CRT new from factory https://collegestation.craigslist.org/vgm/d/bryan-brand-new-makvision-trisync-crt/7250221461.html
It is a Makvision M3129DS-72.
I have a New Astro City now with no monitor so I need something and I thought this might work. Can anyone tell me if this would work with my arcade and if I would need some adapters or power changes? I know very little about this stuff and just wanted a first stab at it with you all. Any input is highly appreciated!
 
Yeah, also it is a flat screen tube so there will be large gaps around the bezel where the curve of the original tube was.

Most people have been very disappointed with this monitor, it has pretty bad geometry and they are known to be pretty unreliable, but it is the only type still available new. It's really a "better then nothing" solution in my opinion. If you can source a used MS9 you'd probably be much happier, but if you only play fighters or games that don't scroll and re-cap it right away, you might be OK with it?
 
OK thanks all for your info. I'm not sure what to do. I don't want to buy one of these if they are unreliable. Will keep looking for MS9.
 
Would I have the same bezel issues with a blast city? I know I'd have to adapt power and video cables.
 
You can get a bezel that will fit the 27"/29" Makvision monitors from Suzohapp or Betson as both still sell those monitors new. Well, they sell the analog variant with the LG flat tube but the bezel will fit.

I have some of these and a bunch of other arcade monitors. I don't think the reliability is much different to any other brand. I.e. all arcade monitors are poorly made and unreliable (especially these days).

Every Wells Gardner monitor I've owned has given me trouble. I'm not sure I've ever even seen a working Kortek. A number of other brands were also just rebranded Wei Ya monitors.

Some people here had bad luck with the tube on their 27" Makvisions. LG certainly didn't make the best tubes. Their QC was inconsistent at best. I'm also not a huge fan of flat tubes for arcade cabs. Then again, I've never seen any 27" (or larger) CRT without issues (especially towards the edges).

I'd say they're fine as long as you set your expectations and are prepared to spend a little time messing around with pots.

Obviously, if you have a choice of a brand new K7000 or the Mak for a SF2 cab, you'd go with the K7000. Unfortunately it's a decade too late to be picky. It's been over a year since I've seen any working CRT arcade monitor for sale on eBay near me.

The choice many have is a Mak, a 16:9 LCD or an empty space.

In terms of making one fit a cab, it's usually just a case of drilling new holes in the wood to fit the hole pattern on the makvision frame. I don't know what the monitor is mounted to in an Astro City cab but if it's a wood frame then it's no issue.
 
Candy Cabs like the Astro and my Blast use custom bezels and metal frames instead of wood
 
I'm sure there's a solution for all that in a scenario where there's no other choice (aside from not using the cab).

You can drill and thread new holes in metal. I do it all the time. It's not fun but it's not the end of the world. You just need a plug-in drill and the right type of drill bit. Drilling into aluminum with a carbide bit is a piece of cake. Steel is just time consuming but, as a one off, it's fine.

It may not even be necessary. The Mak frame has a bunch of slot-shape holes. Maybe one of them might just fit.

I didn't even bother replacing the bezel in my light gun cab when I switched out a broken curved monitor for a flat Makvision. The only issue is that is leaves a small gap between bezel and screen. It's not that noticeable IMO:

WIN-20210206-17-12-43-Pro.jpg


You can see it if you're looking for it though:

WIN-20210206-17-14-32-Pro.jpg


But, it's no issue for me, it's not like it's going into a public arcade. I also took the plexiglass out of my cab to make the light guns work better. If it was left in, you probably wouldn't even notice the gap.

You could probably leave the original bezel in an astro city too. I'm sure it's not the first time someone has needed to replace a curved monitor in one with a flat one (given that flat ones are the only ones left these days).
 
You'll also need to back mount the tube, or else the bezel won't be able to put on correctly. Once back mounted, there will be gaps in the bezel. Back mounting a tube (especially in a Blast City) is NOT a fun task.
 
You'll also need to back mount the tube, or else the bezel won't be able to put on correctly. Once back mounted, there will be gaps in the bezel. Back mounting a tube (especially in a Blast City) is NOT a fun task.
I thought the back of those cabs mounted to the frame (of the cab). What issues would you see with attaching the back with a different monitor in there? The Makvision frame, tube and chassis is slightly shallower than other 29"/27" crt monitors so it's not like it wouldn't fit (in terms of depth).

From the pics in this thread, it looks like it would be no issue.

https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/astro-city-restoration-stringbean.14335/page-2
 
I thought the back of those cabs mounted to the frame (of the cab). What issues would you see with attaching the back with a different monitor in there? The Makvision frame, tube and chassis is slightly shallower than other 29"/27" crt monitors so it's not like it wouldn't fit (in terms of depth).

From the pics in this thread, it looks like it would be no issue.

https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/astro-city-restoration-stringbean.14335/page-2
So heres the deal-

The Astro is made for a full curve tube. That mak is a pure flat tube, You will have to use the astro city monitor frame but mount it in the rear instead of the front and you will need to get some washers to offset it or the bezel wont close. You'll have a lot of gaps in the bezel too, so you'll need to get some foam or something to fill the gaps. I had to do the same when I put a PFX in an astro.
 
So heres the deal-

The Astro is made for a full curve tube. That mak is a pure flat tube, You will have to use the astro city monitor frame but mount it in the rear instead of the front and you will need to get some washers to offset it or the bezel wont close. You'll have a lot of gaps in the bezel too, so you'll need to get some foam or something to fill the gaps. I had to do the same when I put a PFX in an astro.
But how does the final product look? Got some pics to share?
 
So, if you do some searching you will find the common consensus is that these monitors are just plain lousy. They have awful geometry and they look weird in a candy cab because of the gaps. I bought a Blast City with what I was told was a new Makvision 29 (3129D) in it. It lasted all of 2 months before it died with a vertical collapse. I couldn't replace it fast enough. I hated it.

I have debated with Zebra in another thread about this monitor's merits, but honestly he is the only person I have ever read who is happy with his. But to each their own. Perhaps I and many others got bad ones...

Actually my Makvision monitor didn't have to be back-mounted in a candy cab, just the metal frame had new holes drilled to accommodate the mounting bolts on the cab. Maybe they have multiple frame versions? My Makvision's frame has an L shape to set the tube back farther then the average tube. Mine needed a couple washers behind the frame to actually bring the tube forward to meet the corners of the bezel. Though there is nothing you can do about the gaps that don't match the curvature of the tube, they were pretty obvious.

Finding or building a Nanao or similar brand replacement is a better option in my opinion. If you are handy and don't mind tinkering with electronics, read up on tube swaps. Buy a working chassis and compatible yolk and search craigslist for a free consumer tube. Put that chassis and yolk on it (following safety recommendations) and tweak it till your eyes go crossed... haha
 
So, if you do some searching you will find the common consensus is that these monitors are just plain lousy. They have awful geometry and they look weird in a candy cab because of the gaps. I bought a Blast City with what I was told was a new Makvision 29 (3129D) in it. It lasted all of 2 months before it died with a vertical collapse. I couldn't replace it fast enough. I hated it.

I have debated with Zebra in another thread about this monitor's merits, but honestly he is the only person I have ever read who is happy with his. But to each their own. Perhaps I and many others got bad ones...

Actually my Makvision monitor didn't have to be back-mounted in a candy cab, just the metal frame had new holes drilled to accommodate the mounting bolts on the cab. Maybe they have multiple frame versions? My Makvision's frame has an L shape to set the tube back farther then the average tube. Mine needed a couple washers behind the frame to actually bring the tube forward to meet the corners of the bezel. Though there is nothing you can do about the gaps that don't match the curvature of the tube, they were pretty obvious.

Finding or building a Nanao or similar brand replacement is a better option in my opinion. If you are handy and don't mind tinkering with electronics, read up on tube swaps. Buy a working chassis and compatible yolk and search craigslist for a free consumer tube. Put that chassis and yolk on it (following safety recommendations) and tweak it till your eyes go crossed... haha
This is what I did with the Blast city. Its cheaper and far more rewarding.
On the flip side, dialing it in is a real pain in the ass.
 
This is what I did with the Blast city. Its cheaper and far more rewarding.
On the flip side, dialing it in is a real pain in the ass.
I have a blast city currently but the monitor is in meh condition (slightly damaged glass, minor yoke tilt, minor burn in) where could I find a compatible tube for a nano 2933 chassis?
 
I have a blast city currently but the monitor is in meh condition (slightly damaged glass, minor yoke tilt, minor burn in) where could I find a compatible tube for a nano 2933 chassis?
Start looking for semi curved sets. The one I got to work I posted somewhere on the forum. General rule is you want to try to stick with same brands- IE if you have a toshiba tube, look for a toshiba set. There isn't any guarantee that the tube in the TV will work, especially in the USA where toshiba partnered with orion.

https://alt.tv.tech.hdtv.narkive.com/aERW2A1P/all-toshiba-crt-tube-televisions-are-now-made-by-orion
 
Anyone know if this tube would fit a blast correctly? LG tube with Wei Ya chassis. I’m told it’s meant for an egret 3 or atomiswave cab.
 

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