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Samurai Shodown 5 Special/Perfect - Improperly decrypted V-Roms

aargh! seems like flashing it in circuit requires reprogramming of the cpld as well.. darn it :(. yeah the flashcat I have been eyeballing before but never bought it.. found a Xeltex adapter that supports these for around 50usd + ship.. but have no idea if if works with my batronix.. I am guessing NOT since they have the adapter for 200€.. damn thats pricey
 
I think I will order a programmed one from buyicnow.. that seems like the only option sensible atm.. :) I really want the sound fixed.
(althou most sensible would be to buy the ds multi.... but I already got 80+ carts so not really missing anything I need.. but ss5s and strikers 1945 are boots D: )
 
bytestorm said:
I think I will order a programmed one from buyicnow.. that seems like the only option sensible atm.. :) I really want the sound fixed.
(althou most sensible would be to buy the ds multi.... but I already got 80+ carts so not really missing anything I need.. but ss5s and strikers 1945 are boots D: )
Click to expand...
Let me know. I couldn't find the right chip.
 
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bytestorm said:
Sure thing! This is the one I had in mind

SPANSION S29GL128N

https://www.buyicnow.com/it.php?i=1211
https://www.buyicnow.com/files/datasheet/EEPROM/1211.pdf

But please note, my pcb only had a 128 flash.. the Perfect cart had a 256 (with data doubled I assume).. so just make sure you get the right one for you.
Since there might be lots of different versions of these boots floating around
Click to expand...

Data wasn’t doubled on mine. I assume they just used what was cheap and available.
 
Well, I tried to do this with mine, and failed. Desoldering the old chip with Chipquik was no problem, but I think soldering on the new chip was beyond my capabilities.

I ordered two IC's. The first one I think I put too much solder and failed right away, so I started over.

Second time I think my mistake was I pre-tinned the pads. I think I was supposed to just set the chip in place, add flux, and then drag solder from the ends of the pins. As it is now though, it looks like I've got a bit too much solder, and somehow the pins are out of alignment with the pads now.

I think I need to order some more chips and try again and hope my board is still okay.

I thought it would be a quick project. But of course every quick project I take on always quickly escalates into an ongoing disaster. Anyone want to just sell me one?
 
Neo-Alec said:
Well, I tried to do this with mine, and failed. Desoldering the old chip with Chipquik was no problem, but I think soldering on the new chip was beyond my capabilities.

I ordered two IC's. The first one I think I put too much solder and failed right away, so I started over.

Second time I think my mistake was I pre-tinned the pads. I think I was supposed to just set the chip in place, add flux, and then drag solder from the ends of the pins. As it is now though, it looks like I've got a bit too much solder, and somehow the pins are out of alignment with the pads now.

I think I need to order some more chips and try again and hope my board is still okay.

I thought it would be a quick project. But of course every quick project I take on always quickly escalates into an ongoing disaster. Anyone want to just sell me one?
Click to expand...

Sorry to hear that, the board should still be fine as long as the pads are still in place.

Here is my method

Once the old IC is removed, use some flux and desoldering braid to remove excess solder from the pads. Clean the area with ISO and apply a fresh application of flux to the pads, line the IC up and use light pressure with your finger to hold it in place. With a freshly tinned tip, tack two of the corners down rotate the board and tack the other two corners down. From this point you can apply another application of flux to pins; clean your tip and add fresh solder and then drag solder the pins.

After your first drag you might have excess solder in places, just clean your tip add more flux to the pins and drag solder from the point of excess without adding any solder to your tip. Inspect with a magnifying glass, or microscope, clean your tip and add more flux and repeat as needed.

The key is to take your time and use LOTS of flux, dont flood the board or anything but you should pretty much be adding more flux after everytime your iron touches the board, unless your done soldering.
 
Thanks for the tips. I removed it again and the board looks okay. I ordered 4 more chips since these are cheap. So I will try again in a few weeks when they arrive.

By the way, this is the chip I'm using:
https://www.buyicnow.com/it.php?i=1211
 
finally got around ordering alot of stuff from buyicnow, including the replacement chip for the VROM with programming service.
but they need to know if the file needs to be byteswapped or such? Do I actually need to do anything with the data before they burn the edited VROM0 file?
I thought it was already decrypted & arranged in the needed state in the neo multipack archive..?

would it be correct to just email the edited file from the ds multipack, shown in the post on page 1?

man I should have just ordered this from the Go instead of trying to find a cheap way to program it myself.. took ages looking and didnt work out the way i wanted lol..
 
bytestorm said:
Mine is on the way also now :) really hope itll work out
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Good. I hope it does.

You figured out the byte-swapping question?

If it's the same as an original cart, I believe the answer is no. Byte-swapping is not required.

For MVS, and other arcade games, I've always just burned the MAME ROM as is.

On Atari Jaguar I had to do byte-swapping.

They will program anything you want on that IC? No questions asked?
 
GeorgeSpinner said:
Good. I hope it does.

You figured out the byte-swapping question?

If it's the same as an original cart, I believe the answer is no. Byte-swapping is not required.

For MVS, and other arcade games, I've always just burned the MAME ROM as is.

On Atari Jaguar I had to do byte-swapping.

They will program anything you want on that IC? No questions asked?
Click to expand...
No I thought that its probably arranged the way it should "as is" so I took a chance :)

I really should order a programmer for them thou since I have quite a few that I bought for some conversion projects...
 
Long overdue update! It worked fine :). I ordered a pre-programmed chip from buyicnow and swapped it. Now its perfect!

s16.md.jpg
 
wonder if there ever was a similar fix to the corrupted jump sound in Nightmare in the dark?
 
It's not a decryption issue, because the original cart has it too.

However, apparently, not all carts have it. If you have a Nightmare in the Dark without a corrupted jump sound, please dump V1!
 
its really annoying that sound :/.. how could that been released like that??
 
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