Sega Megalo 410
- Thread starter kazanova225
- Start date
tiff_lee
Grand Master
Good effort mate, your persistence paid off looks great.
ok i acquired someones megalo 410 it was a mess i got buttons and some screws fixed. but no sound i need some speakers. it has the benq in it but is a blurry mess and doesnt fill out the screen can someone help me?
Never mind I think im going with a short throw hitach i am and getting a harness made. Im not sure why people gut these things its dumb really dumb. im the forth owner of this cab after looking at the pictures on this forum and internet. the glass is toast has splotches on it
tiff_lee
Grand Master
Megalo has two speaker boxes up top, i havent removed any but they look to be the same as ones used in blast city.
What Benq model is it? blurry means out of focus, some models have focus controlled from the menu others need you to manually adjust on the lens. Size of image will dependent on zoom/throw distance, you may need to physically move the projector away from the screen for additional throw (to increase image size).
Lemony Vengeance
Champion
I mean.. I have a projector that will do 15khz..
my cab is completely gutted everything is gone. I'm regretting buying this thing.
hoagtech
Enlightened
What do you still have?
Fresnal, glass, PSU? Control Panel? Sepakers?
I had to fully gut a Dino King "Goldfish Catcher" and it was a lot easier than I thought.
Basically you start with a PSU and hook your JAMMA loom into it. Then connect the jamma leads to CP, Speakers, Coin, Test, Service.
Finally calibrate your projector and then connect your RGBs video ground to a scart lead on an OSSC or buy a Splitfire from Hatsune Mike and just plug in the VGA D-sub into OSSC.
You can customize your settings on OSSC and save them to your default profile. That way every time you power on your arcade, it keeps your default settings.
The shitty part about using a replacement projector is they don't turn on with your main switch. You either need to keep the remote or reach inside and hit the power button on the PJ. (The default CRT projectors turned on with the main)
If your able to fix it. You have yourself the LARGEST all in one candy cab produced as the 50" models have a pedestal CP and 3' gap between you and the screen.
Best of luck if you can bear it.
tiff_lee
Grand Master
Blast city speakers can still be picked up in the enclosures, I wouldn't be concerned with the fresnel lens it isn't required unless you want to use it as a surface to project onto. You can fit rear projection film to the glass and project directly onto that.
I just picked up one of the ultra short throw Hitachis. I haven't put in the cab yet (Maze of the Kings deluxe), but just running it here on the desk I'm very impressed with it.
I couldn't find one locally (well, I did find one, but it was 200 bones. No thanks!), but I thought maybe these are super common on Yahoo Japan? And they are. I won a CP-A352WN for 1100 JPY. It has a thousand hours on the lamp, but maybe it's good for a few thousand?
Very excited to try it in the cab. The cab now has a widescreen LCD inside it, but in 4:3 it's around 37", which is a far cry from the original rear projection 50".
I couldn't find one locally (well, I did find one, but it was 200 bones. No thanks!), but I thought maybe these are super common on Yahoo Japan? And they are. I won a CP-A352WN for 1100 JPY. It has a thousand hours on the lamp, but maybe it's good for a few thousand?
Very excited to try it in the cab. The cab now has a widescreen LCD inside it, but in 4:3 it's around 37", which is a far cry from the original rear projection 50".
tiff_lee
Grand Master
Post #177 is using a Hitachi ultra short throw for those wondering how it looks, rough image as not properly setup was merely plonked at the back to see if it was feasible.
I haven't got round to finishing it but I was working on something using an arduino nano to control projector shutdown as it has a standard 30 second cooldown IIRC correctly before turning off and no one wants to faff around with remotes. All my cabs are going to be connected via sonoff modules so they can be controlled remotely as independent cabs or as a group via a macro.
When my megalo is turned on it energises the arduino which controls the AC power to the projector and arcade hardware. The hitachi ultra short throws has a RS-232 port and the arduino sends the necessary code to turn on the projector. Inversely when turning off the megalo the AC power to the projector is held on, the turn off code is sent and the projector is queried after 30 secs ( or whatever it is ) for the current state, when the projector reports it is shut down the arduino then bins power to it.
I haven't got round to finishing it but I was working on something using an arduino nano to control projector shutdown as it has a standard 30 second cooldown IIRC correctly before turning off and no one wants to faff around with remotes. All my cabs are going to be connected via sonoff modules so they can be controlled remotely as independent cabs or as a group via a macro.
When my megalo is turned on it energises the arduino which controls the AC power to the projector and arcade hardware. The hitachi ultra short throws has a RS-232 port and the arduino sends the necessary code to turn on the projector. Inversely when turning off the megalo the AC power to the projector is held on, the turn off code is sent and the projector is queried after 30 secs ( or whatever it is ) for the current state, when the projector reports it is shut down the arduino then bins power to it.
tiff_lee
Grand Master
haha yeah that is certainly simpler, I did gloss over some stuff but the parts cost like maybe $10 to $15 all in, can't remember if this projector gives a nagging warning or not when you power it up if not shut down correctly.
I have the Hitachi projector in the cab now.
The original rear projection monitor came with a lenticular lens and a fresnel lens. The fresnel lens does even out the brightness, but it also makes the picture out of focus. The lens I have is also pretty badly scratched, and the scratches are very visible. So I left the fresnel lens out and just went with the lenticular lens.
Setting up was very easy. I kept putting down things underneath the projector until I found a good spot for it. I was also able to see the screen from the back, so I didn't have to run back and forth.
I didn't adjust the keystone at all, I left it at the minimum setting. Due to the lenticular lens, I found the picture looks the best when the angle is small as possible.
The picture is certainly bright enough. I have the projector in eco mode and I still had turn to down brightness.
I'm currently making a shelf for it out of wood and 3D printing coasters for the feet that can be screwed down. The projector will just drop in place and hopefully stay there.
While I think it's better than the LCD I had before, it's not perfect. It's more bright at the bottom than the the top, contrast is kind of poor and it doesn't handle motion super well.
I'll take some pics when I have everything finished.
The original rear projection monitor came with a lenticular lens and a fresnel lens. The fresnel lens does even out the brightness, but it also makes the picture out of focus. The lens I have is also pretty badly scratched, and the scratches are very visible. So I left the fresnel lens out and just went with the lenticular lens.
Setting up was very easy. I kept putting down things underneath the projector until I found a good spot for it. I was also able to see the screen from the back, so I didn't have to run back and forth.
I didn't adjust the keystone at all, I left it at the minimum setting. Due to the lenticular lens, I found the picture looks the best when the angle is small as possible.
The picture is certainly bright enough. I have the projector in eco mode and I still had turn to down brightness.
I'm currently making a shelf for it out of wood and 3D printing coasters for the feet that can be screwed down. The projector will just drop in place and hopefully stay there.
While I think it's better than the LCD I had before, it's not perfect. It's more bright at the bottom than the the top, contrast is kind of poor and it doesn't handle motion super well.
I'll take some pics when I have everything finished.
I got the Hitachi ultra short throws projector, is there anything else I need or can i just face it towards screen and itll work?
atm im trying to find the back and the front.
i am super interested in this if you get it finished.
atm im trying to find the back and the front.
tiff_lee
Grand Master
Yeah I got a schematic sketched out somewhere and I wrote the arduino code but its been on the back burner like everything else for ages.
Trying to find the back and the front? Have the projector facing the rear of the where the glass would be and then set the projector to rear projection mode in the menu.
It would probably work even better if you have the original mirror and have it projecting through that. I didn't, mine had been thrown out. So I have the projector facing straight towards the screen from inside the cab at the lowest possible angle. It looks OK if you're looking at the screen dead-on. It looks better if you're looking at it from above. It looks worse if you're looking at it from below. It's due to the lenticular lens.
Here's the setup:
Here's the setup:
tiff_lee
Grand Master
If you're interested in replacing the mirror I can provide pics/dimensions of the setup and mounting. One of mine had shattered mirror and I just bought a replacement and cut it to size, my other megalo with a mirror still uses an acrylic mirror so is heaps lighter.