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nem

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Sure, but the discussion was also about over-draw on the Sanwa:

looks like something else happened there...
what "something else" are you thinking? because that looks like a classic over-draw burn to me.
There's only two pins for +3.3V on the Sanwa, which isn't ideal. And if the pins are making poor contact (due to dirt, oxidation, or whatever reason), that's what you can end up with.

The Sun Model 3 PSUs in Sega cabs have a separate 10-pin connector for +3.3V:

sega_model3_psu.jpg
 

twistedsymphony

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Sure, but the discussion was also about over-draw on the Sanwa:
at the point you quoted it wasn't PSU specific, we were simply discussing the number of wires and thickness of wires needed for power,

PSU selection really needs to be a completely separate topic because beyond the connection mechanism (be it ATX, Mini-Fit Jr, JVS, JAMMA edge, or whatever) this topic should stay focused on the adapter.
 

Ringo

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Lots of Japanese Arcades run the exact same harness and PSU I own and never had a problem. I do wonder if the issue that Ringo's friend had may have been influenced by voltage conversion (being that Ringo's location is the UK)? Just speculation on my part. Granted, I also use a voltage converter on mine, but I also use a Mean Well on one of them since I got one without the Sanwa PSU. All that said, I've had multiple sessions over weekends where friends and I played SpikeOut for 8+ hours (no joke), and we didn't have a single problem. Nothing melted, nothing caught fire.

I understand the level of concern here due to the power draw of these boards, plus Ken's comments, but I think as long as you're using a high-quality adjustable power supply with the correct input voltage for your region, there shouldn't be a problem.
My friend lives in Japan and has been playing SpikeOut FE for many many years, he's played quite a few of those years on that very setup. One day his DSB2 stopped working and when he investigated he found those connectors plugged into his PSU had burned out.

I'm guilty of playing SpikeOut for mad sessions too, I think my longest stream is something like 7+ hours! It's a devious addictive game for sure which pushes my patience to my upper limits. :whistling:

The only reason I posted that pic is to show that even when using a dedicated PSU there's a risk of over-draw in certain circumstances. My point was that powering Model 3 directly via Jamma may not be the right choice for the long term. Even when using different power supplies that Sega considered OK I still observed heat generated on 3.3v and 5v connectors.

Having a Jamma adapter for the controls and video would save a lot of hassle making bespoke looms etc. If I hadn't had made my own looms I would have been very interested in buying some of these if/when they are available.
 

Ringo

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Sure, but the discussion was also about over-draw on the Sanwa:

looks like something else happened there...
what "something else" are you thinking? because that looks like a classic over-draw burn to me.
There's only two pins for +3.3V on the Sanwa, which isn't ideal. And if the pins are making poor contact (due to dirt, oxidation, or whatever reason), that's what you can end up with.

The Sun Model 3 PSUs in Sega cabs have a separate 10-pin connector for +3.3V:

sega_model3_psu.jpg
Slightly OT, just an observation regarding your picture.

Even though the model number is the same, the PSU on one of my setups that was fitted inside a Daytona USA 2 DX shows 12a on the 5v rail. Not sure what's going on there.
 

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Ringo

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I was under the impression 400-5330 is the part number and the numbers after are the revision.
Maybe I'm mistaken though, always willing to learn something new. :)
 

nnap

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How about just using the JST-VL plugs that the NAOMI (JVS) has, it can provide plenty of power.
That is what I did on my blast. Use the JST-VL connectors from the 001 loom.
 

biggestsonicfan

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After several failed attempts, Digikey has sent me the correct parts and I can finish these damn adapters! lol
 

Hedonism Bot 2.0

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If you have extra, I am interested. I'd like something like this if it can be used for jamma controls and I use a seperate psu and my own stereo amp.
 

Tailsnic Retroworks

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Tops has a Model 3 Jamma adapter for sale here:
https://www.tops-game.jp/products/detail.php?product_id=5321

As Twistedsymphony mentions, you can power the DSB2 from CN12, that's how it's powered on Daytona 2.

As well as the DSB2, SpikeOut and other games such as L.A Machine guns w/no DSB2, Daytona 2 w/DSB2......etc, they use both the front and rear sound channels, CN7 and CN8 on the M3 filterboard.

On the original Blast City SpikeOut config, both CN7 and CN8 go to a larger mixer which is powered by 12v, part number 838-13445. Then the small passive mixer Twistedsymphony mentioned, that small mixer mixes both DSB2 and the output from the large mixer. It's quite a convoluted setup.

That's the way Sega do it, there is some ground hum which I'd love to get rid of one day but the sound levels are correct when you do it this way. If you try to use 2 small passive mixers the sound effects are not at the correct level in relation to the music.

There are obviously other ways to mix the sound, but if there's a solution that simplifies everything that would be awesome.

I've also attached a pic of a home made loom for the sound showing the original config.
Hi. In this setup, I can't see where it would be connected the final audio to an amp/speakers. I only see a closed-cable-circuit between filter board, mixers and DSB2.

Would it be connected to the center connection CN3 in the little mixer 839-0542 the final audio to an amplifier?
 

Ringo

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Tops has a Model 3 Jamma adapter for sale here:
https://www.tops-game.jp/products/detail.php?product_id=5321

As Twistedsymphony mentions, you can power the DSB2 from CN12, that's how it's powered on Daytona 2.

As well as the DSB2, SpikeOut and other games such as L.A Machine guns w/no DSB2, Daytona 2 w/DSB2......etc, they use both the front and rear sound channels, CN7 and CN8 on the M3 filterboard.

On the original Blast City SpikeOut config, both CN7 and CN8 go to a larger mixer which is powered by 12v, part number 838-13445. Then the small passive mixer Twistedsymphony mentioned, that small mixer mixes both DSB2 and the output from the large mixer. It's quite a convoluted setup.

That's the way Sega do it, there is some ground hum which I'd love to get rid of one day but the sound levels are correct when you do it this way. If you try to use 2 small passive mixers the sound effects are not at the correct level in relation to the music.

There are obviously other ways to mix the sound, but if there's a solution that simplifies everything that would be awesome.

I've also attached a pic of a home made loom for the sound showing the original config.
Hi. In this setup, I can't see where it would be connected the final audio to an amp/speakers. I only see a closed-cable-circuit between filter board, mixers and DSB2.
Would it be connected to the center connection CN3 in the little mixer 839-0542 the final audio to an amplifier?
Yes, CN3 on the small mixer is the output.
 

Tailsnic Retroworks

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Tops has a Model 3 Jamma adapter for sale here:
https://www.tops-game.jp/products/detail.php?product_id=5321

As Twistedsymphony mentions, you can power the DSB2 from CN12, that's how it's powered on Daytona 2.

As well as the DSB2, SpikeOut and other games such as L.A Machine guns w/no DSB2, Daytona 2 w/DSB2......etc, they use both the front and rear sound channels, CN7 and CN8 on the M3 filterboard.

On the original Blast City SpikeOut config, both CN7 and CN8 go to a larger mixer which is powered by 12v, part number 838-13445. Then the small passive mixer Twistedsymphony mentioned, that small mixer mixes both DSB2 and the output from the large mixer. It's quite a convoluted setup.

That's the way Sega do it, there is some ground hum which I'd love to get rid of one day but the sound levels are correct when you do it this way. If you try to use 2 small passive mixers the sound effects are not at the correct level in relation to the music.

There are obviously other ways to mix the sound, but if there's a solution that simplifies everything that would be awesome.

I've also attached a pic of a home made loom for the sound showing the original config.
Hi. In this setup, I can't see where it would be connected the final audio to an amp/speakers. I only see a closed-cable-circuit between filter board, mixers and DSB2.Would it be connected to the center connection CN3 in the little mixer 839-0542 the final audio to an amplifier?
Yes, CN3 on the small mixer is the output.
YAS!!!! Many thanks!!! I was overthinking it!! xD. Almost forgot. What are the memories of the DSB2 I have to burn? Are all 27C322 (32Mbit)? I will have the Spikeout normal version, so I have seen the memories of the Final Edition.

http://www.arcaderestoration.com/memorymap/8326/Spikeout+Final+Edition.aspx

It says that in the "dsb" zone, it uses 4 memories. Does it is right?
 

Ringo

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DSB2 requires 5 ROM's in total.

4 x m27c322 and 1 x AM27C1024
 

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biggestsonicfan

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Sorry for taking so long to update this but my work area had been claimed by the rest of the family for the holidays.

Anyway, this weekend I plan to finish assembling the first PCB I've been working on and test it. Considering the audio works, I can only assume my reverse engineered traces should all work fine and dandy.

I still haven't put too much thought into the next generation of adapters regarding the power throughput.
 
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