Seimitsu LS-56 / LS-56-01 Throw Reducer

[FrancoB]

Reduces the post actuation throw of Seimitsu LS-56 / LS-56-01 joysticks.

Files / more info uploaded [here]

I find the post actuation throw of Seimitsu LS-56 / LS-56-01 joysticks to be too large. Post actuation throw is the distance that the joystick travels after the microswitch has been triggered and until it hits the restrictor.

Once printed, this insert fits between the restrictor and the microswitch PCB and can be fitted with the standard screws. The throw is reduced radially by 1mm and makes the stick stop almost as soon as the microswitch(es) have been triggered.

Printed in PLA at 100% infil.

The insert is compatible with the LS-56 and LS-56-01. The following Seimitsu joysticks share the same size bodies and restrictor. The insert should fit in these but I've not been able to test the throw functionality with them :

LS-58
LS-58-01
LS-60
LS-60-01

Video comparing a stock LS-56-01 and one with the insert:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZBcZylpXp3E

 

[xb74]

Really loving the look of this item! Excellent work.
May I ask, will this respond similarly to the KOWAL short throw mod for LS-56?

 

[opt2not]

I wonder how this would work with Kowal’s short throw mod plates?

 

[djsheep]

Really loving the look of this item! Excellent work.
May I ask, will this respond similarly to the KOWAL short throw mod for LS-56?

Keen to know too. I just installed the Kowal short throw mod… I’ll try get this 3D printed to do a side-by-side.

 

[FrancoB]

This works in a similar fashion to Kowals short throw mod in the way that they both reduce post actuation throw. I actually wanted to buy some of the Kowal parts but they were out of stock when I picked up my sticks. I was going to print a version of Kowals parts but I would have needed to buy some longer screws which I did manage to find but I had a bit of a rethink and I came up with this design instead.

Kowals mod works by lowering the restrictor by adding spacer plates. Because the lower part of the actuator protrudes through the restrictor/end of the joystick it will hit the restrictor sooner. Adding more plates will reduce the throw further as the contact point moves further along the axis. If you were so inclined you could work out the throw reduction with a bit of trig.

It's easy to work out the throw reduction with this printed mod as you're altering the contact point at the same place as the stock restrictor. I thought I would start with a 1mm offset and reduce or increase it after testing. 1mm actually turned out to be spot on for me so didn't need to adjust further. I can easily change the offset and upload other variations if anyone needs them. I might have a play and add some chamfers into the corners to see how that works as a semi-octo gate.

I think this 1mm offset is pretty much close to the limit of how much you can adjust the post actuation throw. If you go much further you may find that you hit the restrictor before you've engaged the microswitch. I think that might be that case if you fitted this mod as well as Kowals at the same time. It would be interesting to try it.

Just out of interest, it would also be interesting to see how many Kowal plates you need to add to the LS-56 assembly to achieve the same throw reduction as one of the printed parts, I'm guessing 2-3.

 

[djsheep]

Nice one @FrancoB — I have two Kowal plates in my 56 with the octo gate and will report back findings after I have printed yours.

I’m trying to get an optimum LS56 stick config (on the Suzo 500 level) before I settle down and get serious about scoring on shmups. This couldn’t have come at a better time. Thanks again for the science.

 

[Aurich]

This is so simple and smart, I love it. Thanks for sharing!

If you're in this hobby and you don't own a 3D printer seriously consider getting one. They're cheaper than most PCBs, and you might be surprised how useful they are. I know when I first got one I thought they were neat, and I had a purpose in mind for it, but I quickly discovered once I had it that I was using it all the time for things I never considered.

You can create really specific, functional pieces of precision-shaped plastic. That's a magic wand for a hobby full of little mechanical doo-dads and out of stock parts and interesting upgrade opportunities.

 

[PASTBLASTER]

I'm printing a few now. I have the short throw mod, so I'll let you know what I find out.

 

[reclaimer]

Nice one @FrancoB — I have two Kowal plates in my 56 with the octo gate and will report back findings after I have printed yours.

I’m trying to get an optimum LS56 stick config (on the Suzo 500 level) before I settle down and get serious about scoring on shmups. This couldn’t have come at a better time. Thanks again for the science.

LS-56, 2 Kowal plates, octo gate is my shooter stick too.

Playing around with other 3D printed stuff and, ahem, heavier balls and springs.

Like others have said, 3D printers are great for this hobby. If you don’t want to invest in one, there’s plenty of places you can print stuff one-off locally or online.

 

[PASTBLASTER]

Installed one on my LS-56 with Kowal Short throw. It feels really nice. This adapter seems to solve my biggest gripe on the 56, which is the sloppy "dead zone".

I will install one on my LS-62 tomorrow and see how it feels with it. Awesome job on this @FrancoB !

 

[djsheep]

LS-56, 2 Kowal plates, octo gate is my shooter stick too.

Finally got to give Mushi Futari and DDP a run with this combo on the weekend and it’s right on the money. Absolutely stunning stick for Bullet Hell style shmups. Unbelievable difference the Kowal mod makes and turns it into a beast. Can’t wait to try the @FrancoB solution now.

Tried the new LS-32 model from Seimitsu with the metal pivot and stronger spring. Can’t say I’m a fan honestly. Only tried Street Fighter 2 with it. Might perform better in other genres though. Need to deep dive into it.

 

[FrancoB]

This is so simple and smart, I love it. Thanks for sharing!

If you're in this hobby and you don't own a 3D printer seriously consider getting one. They're cheaper than most PCBs, and you might be surprised how useful they are. I know when I first got one I thought they were neat, and I had a purpose in mind for it, but I quickly discovered once I had it that I was using it all the time for things I never considered.

You can create really specific, functional pieces of precision-shaped plastic. That's a magic wand for a hobby full of little mechanical doo-dads and out of stock parts and interesting upgrade opportunities.

Thanks, glad you like it!

I was on the fence about getting a 3D printer for years but I didn't know how much I would actually use it as I mainly saw people printing mini figures and cosplay stuff using them. It was only when I stumbled across [Alexandre Chappel's] YT channel that I started to see how useful they were for workshop stuff as well as a whole host of other projects. I picked a printer up soon after and it's always either been printing or I've been modeling up something to print. Deffo a great purchase for this hobby and many others.

Installed one on my LS-56 with Kowal Short throw. It feels really nice. This adapter seems to solve my biggest gripe on the 56, which is the sloppy "dead zone".

I will install one on my LS-62 tomorrow and see how it feels with it. Awesome job on this @FrancoB !

Great stuff, great to hear it's working for you

Let me know how it goes with the LS-62. I think it will fit but I have no idea how it will perform. I can always mod it to suit the LS-62 if required.

What is the dead zone issue you're talking about? To me personally, there is a still quite a bad 'dead zone' with these sticks and with most other ball/joint type sticks. The 'dead zone' I'm talking about (which may be different to what you're experiencing) is the loose joystick wobble you get in the neutral position before the spring even starts to compress. It's probably reduced a bit with this mod but I can still feel it. With the stick being so 'tight' now it probably makes it seem worse/more apparent in some respects.

I did a [Supa Tight LS-32] mod a few years back (11 to be precise, shiiit) when I used to run a CNC lathe and I turned some replacement parts. I think some of this 'neutral slop' comes from the clearance between the shaft and the hole in the ball joint. The replacement ball joint I made for those did make it much better.

Inspecting these LS-56-01s in front of me I can see the same amount of clearance, with doesn't actually require any clearance at all. Sadly, I don't have lathe access any more but I'll see if I can find a way to reduce it. Printing parts is probably out out of the question but I'll have a think/play. If I could just sort that out these would then pretty much be my perfect stick.

Finally got to give Mushi Futari and DDP a run with this combo on the weekend and it’s right on the money. Absolutely stunning stick for Bullet Hell style shmups. Unbelievable difference the Kowal mod makes and turns it into a beast. Can’t wait to try the @FrancoB solution now.

Tried the new LS-32 model from Seimitsu with the metal pivot and stronger spring. Can’t say I’m a fan honestly. Only tried Street Fighter 2 with it. Might perform better in other genres though. Need to deep dive into it.

Let us know how you get on

 

[PASTBLASTER]

Thanks, glad you like it!

I was on the fence about getting a 3D printer for years but I didn't know how much I would actually use it as I mainly saw people printing mini figures and cosplay stuff using them. It was only when I stumbled across [Alexandre Chappel's] YT channel that I started to see how useful they were for workshop stuff as well as a whole host of other projects. I picked a printer up soon after and it's always either been printing or I've been modeling up something to print. Deffo a great purchase for this hobby and many others.



Great stuff, great to hear it's working for you

Let me know how it goes with the LS-62. I think it will fit but I have no idea how it will perform. I can always mod it to suit the LS-62 if required.

What is the dead zone issue you're talking about? To me personally, there is a still quite a bad 'dead zone' with these sticks and with most other ball/joint type sticks. The 'dead zone' I'm talking about (which may be different to what you're experiencing) is the loose joystick wobble you get in the neutral position before the spring even starts to compress. It's probably reduced a bit with this mod but I can still feel it. With the stick being so 'tight' now it probably makes it seem worse/more apparent in some respects.

I did a [Supa Tight LS-32] mod a few years back (11 to be precise, shiiit) when I used to run a CNC lathe and I turned some replacement parts. I think some of this 'neutral slop' comes from the clearance between the shaft and the hole in the ball joint. The replacement ball joint I made for those did make it much better.

Inspecting these LS-56-01s in front of me I can see the same amount of clearance, with doesn't actually require any clearance at all. Sadly, I don't have lathe access any more but I'll see if I can find a way to reduce it. Printing parts is probably out out of the question but I'll have a think/play. If I could just sort that out these would then pretty much be my perfect stick.



Let us know how you get on

I have a stock spring LS-56 (Microswitch version, not the 01) with the kowal short throw plates and your adapter. There is nearly no dead zone (Exactly what you are describing) everything feels super tight now. It feels amazing, at least for STG.

 

[PASTBLASTER]

Played a few games of Mushi with this on my LS-62. I think the throw is too short, it's almost immediate. I'll play around with it more, but it DOES fit the stick perfectly!

 

[FrancoB]

If it helps, I've made a version that reduces the throw by 0.5mm rather than 1mm. I'll attach it to this post.

I printed one myself and it does fit with a little gentle persuasion. It's pushing things a bit really as the wall thickness is 0.5mm so you're only going to get one shell thickness and trying to print something like that without the wall bulging etc is asking a lot.

Another option is not to use an insert and just to print the whole of the restrictor but with a smaller profile on the inside. That would allow for much more adjustment whilst producing a solid/stable part.

I modelled the restrictor up whilst designing this so it wouldn't be too much work to get something ready that's printer friendly. I'll take a look when I have a bit more time.

 

[d00mdrew]

The LS-56 is my favorite stick of all time. I’d love to try this out. Anyone willing to print/ship one to Florida? Not sure what something like this would/should cost as I’ve never dabbled in the 3D printing game.

 

[kikaso]

Anyone willing to print/ship one to Florida?

@KaPH33n might be able to hook you up.

 

[PASTBLASTER]

The LS-56 is my favorite stick of all time. I’d love to try this out. Anyone willing to print/ship one to Florida? Not sure what something like this would/should cost as I’ve never dabbled in the 3D printing game.

I'm in FL and have a few extra printed up. DM me where you want it shipped.

 

[ChrisBEANS]

I have a stock spring LS-56 (Microswitch version, not the 01) with the kowal short throw plates and your adapter. There is nearly no dead zone (Exactly what you are describing) everything feels super tight now. It feels amazing, at least for STG.

Interesting! Kowal mod and Franco’s mod??

I’ve got a couple of Franco’s reducer plates, I’ll try combining them.

 

[AlxUnderBase]

Lovely