Thanks, glad you like it!
I was on the fence about getting a 3D printer for years but I didn't know how much I would actually use it as I mainly saw people printing mini figures and cosplay stuff using them. It was only when I stumbled across [
Alexandre Chappel's] YT channel that I started to see how useful they were for workshop stuff as well as a whole host of other projects. I picked a printer up soon after and it's always either been printing or I've been modeling up something to print. Deffo a great purchase for this hobby and many others.
Great stuff, great to hear it's working for you
Let me know how it goes with the LS-62. I think it will fit but I have no idea how it will perform. I can always mod it to suit the LS-62 if required.
What is the dead zone issue you're talking about? To me personally, there is a still quite a bad 'dead zone' with these sticks and with most other ball/joint type sticks. The 'dead zone' I'm talking about (which may be different to what you're experiencing) is the loose joystick wobble you get in the neutral position before the spring even starts to compress. It's probably reduced a bit with this mod but I can still feel it. With the stick being so 'tight' now it probably makes it seem worse/more apparent in some respects.
I did a [
Supa Tight LS-32] mod a few years back (11 to be precise, shiiit) when I used to run a CNC lathe and I turned some replacement parts. I think some of this 'neutral slop' comes from the clearance between the shaft and the hole in the ball joint. The replacement ball joint I made for those did make it much better.
Inspecting these LS-56-01s in front of me I can see the same amount of clearance, with doesn't actually require any clearance at all. Sadly, I don't have lathe access any more but I'll see if I can find a way to reduce it. Printing parts is probably out out of the question but I'll have a think/play. If I could just sort that out these would then pretty much be my perfect stick.
Let us know how you get on