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Spinner Joystick Pre-Order

Oh I definately agree repro should be 1:1 identical. Right down to brand name if you can get away with it.

What I was trying to say was rather than modifying a capcom spinner for Ghox functions, it would be far better to do it other way around but if u was going to do that might as well make it universal. Not that I would buy one if anyone would make it.
 
hi : all

Yes please i rarely checkin on this topic 1:1 if the ghox spinners materialize or someone has a pair for sale.
Also could do with another loop24 joystick. Afaia i have found almost all of the other control sticks i needed except --------->


regards
euphoria
🙃 (rarh! feed me you pathetic human)
 

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Sorry for replying to an old thread but I was looking for dimensions as I still haven't used my repro spinners yet, but want to this year. Talking of repro spinners, I think you'd have a big market for repro Arkanoid ones. I'd certainly buy one!
 
r-type said:
Sorry for replying to an old thread but I was looking for dimensions as I still haven't used my repro spinners yet, but want to this year. Talking of repro spinners, I think you'd have a big market for repro Arkanoid ones. I'd certainly buy one!
Click to expand...

Dimensions for the ghox spinners?
 
No mate, for the Capcom repros. I need to make a panel up, but will need to be creative as I think these are for metal panels rather than wood. I reckon 2mm steel plate fixed to 15mm MDF will do, but with a cut out of the wood so that the spinner can be mounted on metal only.

Wish me luck! :D
 
r-type said:
Sorry for replying to an old thread but I was looking for dimensions as I still haven't used my repro spinners yet, but want to this year. Talking of repro spinners, I think you'd have a big market for repro Arkanoid ones. I'd certainly buy one!
Click to expand...
I'd settle for parts for the Arkanoid spinners. They're fairly easy to find, not expensive, they all are just worn, or seized...and a new set of posts/gears/bushings would make most of them 100% ready to go.

That was why I sold my Capcom spinners, cause spare parts were not made available, when it was the number one issue I was pushing as we were seeing the pre-orders, etc.
 
A second run of japanese version forgotten worlds spinners might prove profitable @hursit ? Especially for those that missed this run... if u want to repro ghox spinners i might be persuaded to send you my nos one??

Have also a nos operation wolf gun too but thats very heavy. Rc gogo nos controller too?? Nos Ls30 ls24 nos taito spinners? Nos atari hall effect joysticks, hall effect joystick? Nos Sega trackballs, sharp x1 twin control pads? Might be missing some. Let me know if u need them?
 
Hello people
i already created the new spinner design last year but i was very busy because of my another project ( Octopus )

But now i can focus to this project again. This spinner is thinner now. It is thinner than the Japanese version also too ( little bit not much ) . The good thing is now, it can fit inside my Arcade Stick also too. I believe it can fit inside the Astro and Egret 2-3 cabinets too. Somebody can check the technical file and confirm it.

The first batch of the Spinner was expensive also. Im planning to make it cheaper this time and want to sell it a lot.

The new spinner has different gears now and this time my plan is to create extra gears also.
Please check the pictures and video. You will find some details. ( The new PCB on the way now, thats why you cant see it in the video )

m83txLz.png

LWsmlhX.jpeg

BvSU9Di.jpeg

3uo8CZW.jpeg

174dksm.jpeg

 
hursit said:
Hello people
i already created the new spinner design last year but i was very busy because of my another project ( Octopus )

But now i can focus to this project again. This spinner is thinner now. It is thinner than the Japanese version also too ( little bit not much ) . The good thing is now, it can fit inside my Arcade Stick also too. I believe it can fit inside the Astro and Egret 2-3 cabinets too. Somebody can check the technical file and confirm it.

The first batch of the Spinner was expensive also. Im planning to make it cheaper this time and want to sell it a lot.

The new spinner has different gears now and this time my plan is to create extra gears also.
Please check the pictures and video. You will find some details. ( The new PCB on the way now, thats why you cant see it in the video )

m83txLz.png

LWsmlhX.jpeg

BvSU9Di.jpeg

3uo8CZW.jpeg

174dksm.jpeg

Click to expand...
Different gears as in different shape, or different material? The 1st batch of spinner gears is a perfect replacement for original spinners.
 
Awesome work @hursit! I think the big thing is to definitely provide replacement parts this time, last run that was a major critique of the project!

Can you confirm as asked above if these new gears will work in the original Capcom spinners?

Also, I thought the first run did fit in an Egret 2/3 cab, were they too big? If so, I guess I have a pair of the old ones to sell b/c I bought them for my E2 cab and didn't realize they don't fit!
 
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@hursit - Chief, those look very nice.

I'll take a look on the measurements for the E2/3/AWSD, Capcom Cute, and AC/NAC today.

If they fit, and you're going to get spare parts this run, I'm DEFINITELY interested

Regarding the spare parts, I would suggest the plastic gears, the fan gear, the two spinner shafts, those spoon-levered micro-switches, the bushings/clips, and DEFINITELY that spring, and maybe even the actual aluminum spinner top.

If any of the spare parts, are off the shelf hardware, we can source those on our own....but if I grab a pair of spinners this time, I'd ideally be looking for 4 spares of each gear, shaft, spring, bushing, and microswitch.....and possibly two tops.

That way I could rebuild each one of them, twice down the line, or if I ever did have to sell things, the buyer could rebuild them if needed.

I feel this would be a good fit for any arcade operators looking to make a Forgotten Worlds cab too, so they would have spares, as public play places are so much more brutal on equipment.

Ready to help get this thing moving! :D
 
bagheera369 said:
@hursit - Chief, those look very nice.

I'll take a look on the measurements for the E2/3/AWSD, Capcom Cute, and AC/NAC today.

If they fit, and you're going to get spare parts this run, I'm DEFINITELY interested

Regarding the spare parts, I would suggest the plastic gears, the fan gear, the two spinner shafts, those spoon-levered micro-switches, the bushings/clips, and DEFINITELY that spring, and maybe even the actual aluminum spinner top.

If any of the spare parts, are off the shelf hardware, we can source those on our own....but if I grab a pair of spinners this time, I'd ideally be looking for 4 spares of each gear, shaft, spring, bushing, and microswitch.....and possibly two tops.

That way I could rebuild each one of them, twice down the line, or if I ever did have to sell things, the buyer could rebuild them if needed.

I feel this would be a good fit for any arcade operators looking to make a Forgotten Worlds cab too, so they would have spares, as public play places are so much more brutal on equipment.

Ready to help get this thing moving! :D
Click to expand...


Ok...so for the DEPTH measurements, the AC/NAC's will have about 15mm clearance, the Egret 2/3/AWSD will have about 20-25mm, and the Cute's will have about 20mm clearance.

Also, the Cute will be a touch tight on the length measurement (from front of panel to rear of panel near monitor) with about 5-8mm to spare at the front, and at the back.

The one thing I am noticing, is that because of how shallow these are, and the 100mm width....they will absolutely eat up a width of a 6-button section of a control panel.

So with the forgotten worlds panels, that's obviously fine...but if these were to be cheap enough, to say....make a spinner panel like my attached picture, with a 30mm fire button on each side, you'd have to space everything accordingly.

Shouldn't be an issue on the larger panels....but for the Cute, a forgotten worlds 2p panel SHOULD work (it will be TIGHT and need to be prototyped to be certain).....but a spinner panel could only have 1 fire button per player, not both.

If I can provide any other info, please shout, and I'll try to accomplish that.


It should go without saying, that the Vewlix/Chewlix cabs have all the room in the world, and will fit these fine.
 

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bagheera369 said:
Ok...so for the DEPTH measurements, the AC/NAC's will have about 15mm clearance, the Egret 2/3/AWSD will have about 20-25mm, and the Cute's will have about 20mm clearance.

Also, the Cute will be a touch tight on the length measurement (from front of panel to rear of panel near monitor) with about 5-8mm to spare at the front, and at the back.

The one thing I am noticing, is that because of how shallow these are, and the 100mm width....they will absolutely eat up a width of a 6-button section of a control panel.

So with the forgotten worlds panels, that's obviously fine...but if these were to be cheap enough, to say....make a spinner panel like my attached picture, with a 30mm fire button on each side, you'd have to space everything accordingly.

Shouldn't be an issue on the larger panels....but for the Cute, a forgotten worlds 2p panel SHOULD work (it will be TIGHT and need to be prototyped to be certain).....but a spinner panel could only have 1 fire button per player, not both.

If I can provide any other info, please shout, and I'll try to accomplish that.


It should go without saying, that the Vewlix/Chewlix cabs have all the room in the world, and will fit these fine.
Click to expand...
Thanks man. Would it be a bother to confirm if the original spinners will fit in an E2? I thought they would, but don't really remember.
 
XtraSmiley said:
Thanks man. Would it be a bother to confirm if the original spinners will fit in an E2? I thought they would, but don't really remember.
Click to expand...

No bother, but I need the depth for those in MM. I don't have my set anymore.

I think they should have, but I don't wanna lie to you.

Need depth from top of mounting plate, to bottom of lowest point.....and if the shaft pushing down the spoon switch is the lowest point, I need that measurement with the spoon switch depressed.
 
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