Today I worked on lots o’ cabs! (The CRT porn thread)

[biggestsonicfan]

convergence rings were stuck, but a splash of isopropyl alcohol both cleaned and removed old crap that made them stick.

This is quoting an older post but I had some weird crap on my rings that looked like some white epoxy at some point. The glue itself no longer sticks the rings together but it now makes the rings like a sort of puzzle so I can align the rings up with the glue to assumingly align them the way they were intended.

Grid before adjusting c-rings.... sucks...

This isn't something I've ever checked before nor know how to really adjust the rings, is there a method to this madness?

And put some fresh dielectric grease around the hole…. Happy hole

I have a Nano MS8-26U myself, is this something i should look into getting for my monitor? It could use a bath and I could do this next time I clean it.

 

[nem]

IMO unless you have your cab set up in a sauna, don't bother with dielectric grease.

 

[BuddyC]

IMO unless you have your cab set up in a sauna, don't bother with dielectric grease.

But it doesn’t hurt if you want to pamper a tube worth pampering

 

[BuddyC]

This is quoting an older post but I had some weird crap on my rings that looked like some white epoxy at some point. The glue itself no longer sticks the rings together but it now makes the rings like a sort of puzzle so I can align the rings up with the glue to assumingly align them the way they were intended.

Was probably done by factory to make sure the rings didn’t move during shipping.

This isn't something I've ever checked before nor know how to really adjust the rings, is there a method to this madness?

The rings are there to adjust convergence and purity. Definitely something to try if convergence is all over the place. Needs a lot of patience, but it is a method to the madness. Steve from Retro Tech made a ok video about the procedure. Worth a watch.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LvJC6f2dhww


Pro tip! Mark the convergence rings with a sharpie etc and draw a straight line before you start. In case you mess up( and you will mess up) you can use your own mark as a reference point to start from scratch.

I have a Nano MS8-26U myself, is this something i should look into getting for my monitor? It could use a bath and I could do this next time I clean it.

Like nem said. Probably not needed, but a lot of Nanao serviceman manuals says to add some fresh dielectric grease after service. So I do Just that.… And overkill is fun.

 

[BuddyC]

Quick little update to the SNK MV25UP-0.
As it summer, it gets warm inside my little buddy, so why not add some airflow?

The cab had already fittings for a fan thats never been used.
A 90 mm Noctua was a drop in replacement.
Used the omnijoin adapter and crimped on some connectors for 12V and ground and hooked it up to the PSU.

No monitor interference and a cooler, happy cab.

 

[BuddyC]

After some great assistance from the almighty arcadeguru @nem ,I was ready to do the fabled G1 mod to the Nanao MS9 inside my Impress.

Good lighting and a magnification lens is highly recommended, but it wasn’t to bad.
Some small soldering required, but was not to bad.

After completing the mod and hooking it all up, I was greeted with this image. Something had definitely changed.

The mod was working as intended (j and all I needed was to boost the flyback and adjust the colors a smidge and the results was a extremely sharp and bright picture!
MS9 with MS8 sharpness? Fuck yes!

It’s not a insane improvement if you do the mod, but image is brighter, a little sharper with more defined scanlines. I love it!

Thanks to @Hatsune Mike for the science and to @nem for the assistance!

Some CRT-porn for your enjoyment.

 

[BuddyC]

Some extra CPS2 snacks

 

[BuddyC]

Small but important update to the G1 mod.
Yesterday I got a pretty beat up MS9 chassis for free. It was working, but had some issues with jitter etc according to my buddy who gave it to me.
Chassis had not been worked on or used for about 10 years and had been living inside a closet collecting dust.

Cleaned the chassis, reflowed a lot of pretty bad solderpoints and added some nicer caps when needed + patched some corroded traces. Did the G1 mod while I was at it just because I did like the results I got on my other chassis.

This chassis was a Rev. D "05A00585D1'. The last one I did was a revision C. My best guess is a MS9 29A or MS9 29N22 due to the x-capacitors in C991 & C992

I used the same tube on the same cab. Same cabels, same game. The only variable was the pretty beat up MS9 chassis that was a rev D and not a Rev.C

The results was fucking mind blowing!
I have never seen a crispier image. It looks insanely good in real life and these pictures does not do it justice at all.
3rd strike looks mindfucking gorgeous and my eyes are bleeding because it’s so sharp and vivid. I do also love the bacon strip scanlines…
May be too sharp for some, but damn… I’m happy.

Is the Rev. D "05A00585D1' a better candidate for the G1 mod? I don’t know, but I am extremely pleased with the results.

Enjoy scanline porn.

 

[duffcon]

This really needs to be renamed “the crt porn thread”

 

[BuddyC]

Time for update!
Got a request if I could calibrate a Dance Dance Revolution Extreme that had some degauss issues and generally looked a little depressed….

Well, that’s depressing…..

Good focus, but a really dull picture… anti-vibrant would describe it best…
The cab had been placed right next to a huge breaker box, so I thought it would be smart to move it a little farther away from what looked like a mini power plant…
I hit it with my manual degaussing coil a couple of times and it cleared up nicely.

Picture take before degaussing, but color tuning was crap…. Lets make it sexy again!

Mmmmmm…. much better!
Just some minor adjustments on the flyback, brightness and contrast helped alot

Blue looked a little low in this picture, but was perfect IRL. Sharp, vibrant and nice colors AND colorless where it should be.

Happy DDR Extreme!

 

[dos]

man I wish every game had markings to show exactly which end bars should be blacked out

 

[BuddyC]

man I wish every game had markings to show exactly which end bars should be blacked out

Yup! It’s a really nice feature!

 

[BuddyC]

Today I had a date with this big bitch! Sega Super Megalo 2!

In good condition with original Hitachi PTV. First time I have worked on one of these. Exiting shit!
Screen looked like it could need some love and the crosshatch confirmed it….
No bueno!

According to the manual, convergence adjustments is done with a remote, but this remote was missing.… Crap.
Guess we have to calibrate this fucker old school!

After removing lots of panels, I finally found all the controls I need. Really cool stuff!

That’s a big ass flyback!

Controls for screen and focus was in the front along with some other controls

3x convergence rings, 3x screen pot, 3x focus pot, 3x the fun!

I actually found messing with the convergence rings easier than with a regular CRT since each color had their own controls. Results where pretty damn good to be a old PTV. Sexy grid time!

 

[BuddyC]

After some screen and focus adjustments etc etc etc, I really want to play some 3rd strike on this bad boy!
Happy cab!

Local arcade tech approved!

 

[ChrisBEANS]

That’s EPIC!!

I’d love to play some Metal Slug X on that beast!!!

You are a magician

 

[Mrhide]

You are lucky: there is practically no screen burn on these tubes. Wish I would have been that easy for me.

 

[BuddyC]

Some burn, but not bad at all. Cab is in excellent condition.

 

[dos]

Constantly impressed with these arcades you're showing us in Norway. I never would have guessed there were such rad arcades there.

 

[BuddyC]

We have some pretty hardcore arcadefans here in Oslo, so still lots o’ cabs I haven’t shown yet

 

[dos]

You should do a post detailing what arcades you have there and with some general description of what they have (and photos if possible!). I keep wanting to do a euro trip and from everything I've seen Oslo would definitely be part of that