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xodaraP

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Can you take a photo of your key writing wires? This sounds like what happens when the cap gets bridged to the pad....
 

buckweet

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Unplug key wires and try loading a decrypted gamer like mvc unlocked. See if it works.
Just tried it, same thing.


Can you take a photo of your key writing wires? This sounds like what happens when the cap gets bridged to the pad....
Oh jeez, hope I didn't blow it.
 

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xodaraP

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That looks super clean, no issues there

If you load the latest firmware onto an SD card and try to flash it does the FW disappear? Might be worth trying it, maybe the firmware is corrupted?
 

xodaraP

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Wait... Can we get a photo of your CN9 connector? Are you sure your wires are correct?

That shouldn't stop decrypted games running though.

Is your interconnect board seated properly?
 

buckweet

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Wait... Can we get a photo of your CN9 connector? Are you sure your wires are correct?

That shouldn't stop decrypted games running though.

Is your interconnect board seated properly?
Board is a seven revision. I'll attach pictures below.




That looks super clean, no issues there

If you load the latest firmware onto an SD card and try to flash it does the FW disappear? Might be worth trying it, maybe the firmware is corrupted?
I'll have to try that. Worried I'd need to do the arduino discovery method though if it did have the old firmware and I had already soldered wires and tried to write the games using encryption.
 

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xodaraP

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Wires are correct, interconnect looks like it's on solid (and I think it's the right orientation)


I'd try reflashing firmware.
 

Darksoft

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The interconnect board, doesnt seem to be completely pushed up on the left side (where main PCB is). The orientation is good. In any case it wouldn't explain the problem that he's showing. That's either:

A) Some solder blob when installing the key writing wires
B) some kind of shortcut or ESD that corrupted the firmware. Reinstall again.
C) Bad quality microSD. Try a different one. Format it fresh and copy all files in one drag+drop move.
 

buckweet

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The interconnect board, doesnt seem to be completely pushed up on the left side (where main PCB is). The orientation is good. In any case it wouldn't explain the problem that he's showing. That's either:

A) Some solder blob when installing the key writing wires
B) some kind of shortcut or ESD that corrupted the firmware. Reinstall again.
C) Bad quality microSD. Try a different one. Format it fresh and copy all files in one drag+drop move.
I re-flashed newest firmware successfully (got the rapid blinking green LED andfile disappeared from Micro SD afterwards). Issue continued. I then formatted two SDs that have worked on other CPS2 Multi Kits and copied all files via drag and drop. Issue continued.

One thing I didn't mention that I probably should have is that the LCD seems to have white squares over the whole thing, you can still read the names of the games you're switching through, but it's a bit difficult unless you tilt the Micro SD.

I haven't tried re-seating the CPS2 Multi on the B board yet. I'll give that a go next. Just trying to exhaust all the troubleshooting options I can before biting the bullet and sending it over to Master Mitsurugi to check it out.

If the CPS2 Multi did in fact have the old firmware on it, and the wires were soldered for encryption and the Micro SD had the new roms that included key writing, could that produce the problems I've mentioned? (Since I did write a game with the key writing before updating firmware initially) Or would that give a different result?

I appreciate all the help so far.
 

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If the CPS2 Multi did in fact have the old firmware on it, and the wires were soldered for encryption and the Micro SD had the new roms that included key writing, could that produce the problems I've mentioned? (Since I did write a game with the key writing before updating firmware initially) Or would that give a different result?
Yes, you could have corrupted the bootloader. When did you buy it?
 

buckweet

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If the CPS2 Multi did in fact have the old firmware on it, and the wires were soldered for encryption and the Micro SD had the new roms that included key writing, could that produce the problems I've mentioned? (Since I did write a game with the key writing before updating firmware initially) Or would that give a different result?
Yes, you could have corrupted the bootloader. When did you buy it?
Purchased from not the most recent, but second to most recent run from Paradise. I do believe this was a run with the updated firmware, but I could be mistaken. 05/07/2018
 

xodaraP

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If it was bought this year it will have the updated firmware
 

jord4n313

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So I had a cps2 with a dead battery, it wouldnt boot but the battery still had some voltage, so i shorted exc5 but i still get a purple screen after it flashes a game and writes a key, however if the game is a hack like MvC Unlocked or Vampire Savior Hack then if I reboot the cp2 without the sd card then they boot and play fine, any ideas?

this is a hispanic cps2 with revision 7 Marvel Vs Capcom b-board, i tried the PAL G it came with and the one I got from saveyougames with no change, the board didnt have CN5 or CN6 but since the two hacks I tried are working beautifully I'm assuming that my install of those two connectors isn't the problem? I've seen conflicting info about the jumpers, did I need to do anything with the jumpers with the 2019 batch of cps2 multis?
 
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jord4n313

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yes used my desoldering station to pull it out whole, came out easy

also i did realize that i dont need to remove the sd card for the hacks, if i select them and let it flash the game/key then power the cps2 off then on they play perfectly

is there a specific amount of time required to short the exc5 pin for?

EDIT: Just tried a few and all the decrypted roms appear to work, so i guess the issue is somewhere with the key writing and auto reset
 
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jord4n313

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would the key writing wires affect it not auto reset after loading a game?
 

jord4n313

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Thanks I used the Arthrimus Quick Solder Bus, I guess I’ll try removing it and doing a straight wiring setup. Are there alternate points I could use to test continuity for the keyharness wires?

Edit: Awesome! I reflowed the solder for the Setup 1 and Setup 2 points in the Arthrimus Quick Solder Bus and now everything is working great! So excited, thanks for everyone's help! I was nervous it was something with my removing solder from all 192 holes and then soldering in the 2 96 pin connectors in CN5 and CN6, but it turns out when I soldered Setup 1 and Setup 2 on the Arthrimus QSB the solder was filling the hole and flush with the top of the QSB but wasnt down deep enough to make a good connection with the two points.
 
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