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UD-USB Decoders

im aware of that. I've already disabled it via a neo geo aes controller like ive said.

The problem is it doesnt work with a undamned converter ->> UFB arcade stick or PS4 controller. Even my SNES2DB15 won't work. I don't know what button 4 is on those outputs from the converter is. Im just assuming it is the one LK is tied too which is X on a PS4 pad.
 
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I've been using my UD USB Open Terminal versions for a few years now and decided to finally get the UD USB DB-15 for a more cleaner look and less clutter for my setup. I have my Naomi connected to my Retroelectronik Supergun. Ran into issues with the decoder recognizing my buttons and re-mapping still had the same result. My Punch Buttons are fine, and K1. K2 remains assigned to my credit button even after I remap the button and the button that is supposed to be my K3 is stuck in the K2 location, while the K3 button remains unassigned. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!
 
ChuChu Flamingo said:
@undamned have you ever disabled button 4 on a HAS supergun version 4 using a brooks UFB? Manual states to hold DB15 pin 4 (MVS D) button on power up of HAS. Only question is can your undamned usb decoder do that? I can't get it disabled on UNDAMNED USB Decoder - ps4 controller or brooks UFB arcade stick. The HAS disables button 4 if I plug in a real neo geo db 15 controller and hold mvs D button. Tl;dr can't do raging demon inputs on vampire savior.
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I don't own a HAS, so no, but if it works with a hardwired controller like AES, that tells me that the HAS is checking faster than the decoders can report first button samples. No fixing that on my end (not saying it's a "flaw" in HAS, either). Once it's disabled with your AES, does it stay disabled after power cycle?

EluVKV said:
I've been using my UD USB Open Terminal versions for a few years now and decided to finally get the UD USB DB-15 for a more cleaner look and less clutter for my setup. I have my Naomi connected to my Retroelectronik Supergun. Ran into issues with the decoder recognizing my buttons and re-mapping still had the same result. My Punch Buttons are fine, and K1. K2 remains assigned to my credit button even after I remap the button and the button that is supposed to be my K3 is stuck in the K2 location, while the K3 button remains unassigned. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!
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Check the mapping in the first post of this thread. Retroelectronik doesn't follow neo geo DB15 mapping, and I don't allow for remapping of coin/start, so you'd either need to modify your retroelectronik or make some sort of adapter. Sadly your original setup with screw terminals was the best for that supergun because of the goofy pinout.
-ud
 
@ChuChu Flamingo - This may indeed be a polling timing issue as explained by undamned. In this case you can:
1. Install a jumper/switch to manually disable button 4 (the spot is marked as JP2 on the HAS PCB).
2. Hold down the D button on the USB controller and reset the HAS' processor (touch the RESET spot on the PCB with GND - I can tell you more about it via PM).
3. Use the AES controller to disable buttons, unplug it and plug in the UD-USB. The DB15 shield isn't grounded in your HAS (and the UD-USB's isn't either) so this shouldn't be a problem.
4. Oldschool method of taping the JAMMA button 4 pin on the CPS2.
 
Seems like step 3 just pluggin in a neo geo aes controller is the easiest. I just remember reading your faq saying to not plug in db15 connections after it is being powered on. So it should be safe then?
 
There must be precautions in the instruction manual, people do weird things. The older HAS versions had the DB15 shield grounded, which sometimes resulted in short-circuit when the shield touched the VCC pin. Just be careful and plug the adapter evenly and it will be good.
 
Thanks so much for making these! I have the screw terminal and DB15 versions, and I love 'em since they let me use my old Street Fighter 15th Anniversary and Mortal Kombat 9 joysticks. Just got the Klassic Mortal Kombat PS3 joystick too.

Anyway, I just found out about this:
HORI Nintendo Switch Real Arcade Pro - Street Fighter™ Edition (Classic Arcade)

That is sick and very retro.... Therefore, I have a feature request for ya (if it would be feasible, that is): I would love it if Nintendo Switch and/or PC USB gamepad/joystick support is added in a future release! If so, I think I'd buy this joystick and make it my main. Hell, I might just buy it anyway.
 
ChuChu Flamingo said:
Seems like step 3 just pluggin in a neo geo aes controller is the easiest. I just remember reading your faq saying to not plug in db15 connections after it is being powered on. So it should be safe then?
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Wouldn't step #2 be the easiest (note I also posted that in my reply as well), unless you don't have the jumper version.
 
I do have the jumper version. Any link to a 2pin 2.54mm Gold Pin header (male) with jumper? It isn't too big of a deal to me since I play my fighting games on my candy cabinet 99% of the time.

also can't pm ya RGB inbox full. Just curious about 2. Hold down the D button on the USB controller and reset the HAS' processor (touch the RESET spot on the PCB with GND - I can tell you more about it via PM).

Also would it be fine to use the Saturn2DB15/SNES2Neo for disabling and unplugging after it is disabled? Just want to make sure.

@RGB
 
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@undamned Any plans to make this compatible with "8Bitdo M30 2.4G Wireless Gamepad for Sega Genesis Mini and Mega Drive Mini - Sega Genesis"
 
Got the jackscrews from @opt2not and they work as planned for securing them to a DB-15 extension cable. I just need a nut to finish securing them in place. :thumbup:

Thanks again!

IMG_20200203_221649.jpg
 
Dear Undamned,

In the past 2 months, I bought the power A fightpad for XboxOne and PS4 and have them shipped to you.

May I please kindly ask how is the work coming along to have these 2 fight pad supported in your Undamned DB15 decorder?

Please take your time.

It will be nice if you can update us on the progress.

Thank You once again.
 
I have a question, to get compatibility with this guy’s arcade stick, he used one of those brook adapters when plugging into the DB15 adapter on my HAS setup. Is that ok for future use like for power consumption? I like helping out the fighting game community but we all know it has a lot of stupid people.

Like if you tell them to not touch the power supply, they are definitely going to touch that power supply.
 
I have a Brook adapter on mine, UD added support for it a while ago. It works perfectly and I've had no issues at all.

The Brook board just replaces the USB encoder board that the stick came with, so it's using the same power as it would with any encoder board.
 
Cat said:
In the past 2 months, I bought the power A fightpad for XboxOne and PS4 and have them shipped to you.

May I please kindly ask how is the work coming along to have these 2 fight pad supported in your Undamned DB15 decorder?
Click to expand...
I have not made any firmware changes since receiving them. I have been busy with some hardware manufacturing support but I think in a couple weeks I will have time to get back to firmware update items.
-ud
 
Hey guys @undamned , trying to figure out a problem with two new decoders i recently bought from Paradise Arcade. The decoders i bought are the USB decoders that have the 20Pin header with screw terminals.

so bought them a few weeks ago and barely got around to making a harness for my Blast City. I made a harness that comes from the control panel of the Cab and splits into two. One goes to the original harness that connects to the buttons, and the other splits into a harness that connects into the 20pin header and goes to the UD USB decoder. I quadruple checked my wiring and made sure no grounds or anything were crossing. I even went to the extent to making another harness and ordering more things to do so , but still no cigar.... Im at the point to were i want to ask paradise arcade to exchange them. But i thought i would check here before doing so, just in case i missed something.

*note* i also tried skipping the 20pin header and using the screw terminals but still got the same issue!

TLDR; my issue is, one decoder everything works except for 1P and on the other decoder the 3P doesnt work. However the control panel on the cab itself still works with 1P and 3P. I didnt move any of the jumpers or anything? idk if that would effect anything.



https://imgur.com/gallery/z3au6Qy

z4eMLPA.jpg
 
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2 things:

- What is the top jumper set for (5V or 3V)?

- To test the decoder itself (no harnesses), hook up only 5V and GND to the decoder, plug in a game controller, and grab a voltmeter. Put the voltmeter between GND and UP and watch the voltage change when you hit UP on your controller. Now go through every terminal the same way for each direction and button signal on your controller.

-ud
 
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