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Ultracade UVC help

I really don't think the UVC is faulty as it syncs fine via the jamma JVS IO, I think it's something I'm doing wrong. I got up this morning and it occurred to me what the problem might be, 99% sure. I have a molex cable wired from my NVS4000 PSU for power, and a VGA cable in parallel on the 15 pin AMP UP, so I don't have to mess about with a jamma passthrough adapter. BUT, seeing as VGA allows for several ground connections via several pins, and I made that parallel cable quite some time ago, I'm pretty sure I used a different pin for ground. The reason being it wouldn't have mattered if I was going the @opt2not route via the jamma JVS IO, but now I want to go a different route, obviously I forgot about that. Hoping that's the case here as it's an easy fix, even though it'd make me quite the idiot lol.
 
Okay, it works now! It was indeed a simple ground issue (d'oh!).

Need to properly redo the cable with a female VGA connector and without the csync loop wire (as I have h and v sync wired separately now), but it works! The standard interface of the Xbox 360 still looks a bit bright due to it being mostly white, but it's doable. The games however look very, very nice. I'm happy :)
 

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I have been messing around with the UVC for a little bit, mainly playing DOA2 on Naomi. While it looks great, it catches my eye that on both 15khz and 24khz (worse on 24khz, but it is definitely also present on 15khz) there is a substantial amount of bleed/smearing in the brighter colors. Anyone noticed this? Capturing it on a picture is definitely hard, but please see attachment to get an idea (terrible picture I know, but check the letter "R" on the right). In DOA2 you mainly see it in the text in the overlay (WINNER/K.O., etc.). I think this is what the guys maybe meant over on the shmups forum, about the Extron talk and the vertical shift? Btw, I tried every jumper setting combination I could, including hvsync and csync, but it makes no difference.
 

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opt2not said:
When was the last time you calibrated your monitor? Looks like the color pots could use some adjusting.
Click to expand...

Actually very recently, got a new chassis, recapped it and then calibrated the colors... it doesn't show with anything else than the UVC. So can I assume you don't have it on yours?
 
Sp33dFr34k said:
Actually very recently, got a new chassis, recapped it and then calibrated the colors... it doesn't show with anything else than the UVC. So can I assume you don't have it on yours?
Click to expand...
No, doesn't happen on mine.
But I always do a quick re-calibrate on my monitors when I swap boards. So my monitor setup is tuned to use my UVC through my IO. Also I have replaced the caps on my IO's, but you're not using the IO as a passthrough now, so that shouldn't matter to you.
 
opt2not said:
No, doesn't happen on mine.
But I always do a quick re-calibrate on my monitors when I swap boards. So my monitor setup is tuned to use my UVC through my IO. Also I have replaced the caps on my IO's, but you're not using the IO as a passthrough now, so that shouldn't matter to you.
Click to expand...

Okay, let me try that then. Can you let me know your calibration procedure and which input screen you're using and I'll try to replicate it.
 
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I can't think of a system that doesn't have one.

Since you noticed the bleeding in DOA2, use the Naomi one. It's in the system service menu.
 
You were spot on @opt2not, I recalled I calibrated this monitor, but it was actually the previous chassis, d'oh... needless to say it looks a lot better now!

I only have 1 small issue left. Most of the time when I do a cold boot the wrapping around the top of the screen occurs on my Naomi. I know this can be controlled with switch 2, increasing or decreasing delay lines. But the switch is already on and flipping it doesn't change anything regardless. When I don't even touch anything, power the cab down and turn it on again, it disappears. Mostly on second boot, sometimes on third. Weird behaviour, but could also be an issue with my Naomi I guess? No big deal, just wondering if it sounds familiar to anyone here.
 
Sp33dFr34k said:
You were spot on @opt2not, I recalled I calibrated this monitor, but it was actually the previous chassis, d'oh... needless to say it looks a lot better now!
Click to expand...
For me, re-calibrating is usually part of the process of switching games. Especially if I'm running older pcb's, where video output values were all over the place in terms of color output.
I've gotten so used to doing it that it only takes me 5-10 mins to get it dialed in. When using the UVC with the IO combo, it definitely needed a recalibration. But I recommend doing this as a routine whenever you're switching boards.

Sp33dFr34k said:
I only have 1 small issue left. Most of the time when I do a cold boot the wrapping around the top of the screen occurs on my Naomi. I know this can be controlled with switch 2, increasing or decreasing delay lines. But the switch is already on and flipping it doesn't change anything regardless. When I don't even touch anything, power the cab down and turn it on again, it disappears. Mostly on second boot, sometimes on third. Weird behaviour, but could also be an issue with my Naomi I guess? No big deal, just wondering if it sounds familiar to anyone here.
Click to expand...
This is a weird one. I haven't had that issue before but it sounds like caps needing to be warmed up. Aka, needs new caps! maybe your UVC could use a cap refresh.
 
opt2not said:
For me, re-calibrating is usually part of the process of switching games. Especially if I'm running older pcb's, where video output values were all over the place in terms of color output.
I've gotten so used to doing it that it only takes me 5-10 mins to get it dialed in. When using the UVC with the IO combo, it definitely needed a recalibration. But I recommend doing this as a routine whenever you're switching boards.


This is a weird one. I haven't had that issue before but it sounds like caps needing to be warmed up. Aka, needs new caps! maybe your UVC could use a cap refresh.
Click to expand...

Yeah, now it makes sense why you're using the IO combined with the UVC, if you dial the monitor in again every time.

Caps is what I was thinking as well, so I'll just replace them and see if the issue remains. Thanks for bearing with me :)
 
opt2not said:
This is a weird one. I haven't had that issue before but it sounds like caps needing to be warmed up. Aka, needs new caps! maybe your UVC could use a cap refresh.
Click to expand...
I have been doing some checking, and it only happens with my Naomi. Probably my Naomi needs to have a recap then, rather than the UVC. Which is weird, as I never had any issues on 15khz. So I'm not entirely sure about this one, but I guess I'll give it a try.
 
I'm not sure how your video is setup or what arcade machine you're using. Here's my setup; hope this helps you solve your issue.

  • Arcade Machine is NAC with auto sync MS9-29A but I only use it in 15khz mode
  • Naomi 2 is setup for 480p/31khz output
  • UVC is setup to take the 480p signal from Naomi 2 and scale it down to 240p/15khz
  • UVC gets its power from the SUN PSU that powers the Naomi 2
  • wiring of video is as following:
  • Naomi 2 -> VGA short cable into UVC -> UVC output into Sega JVS I/O RGBS output pins bypassing the entire video signal of the JVS I/O
  • Capacitors on Sega JVS I/O replaced (some were leaking)
  • RGB processing on JVS I/O disabled: I don't use its video amp or input, its just passing the signal from UVC to the JAMMA harness directly (it's been a few years, I believe I removed the resistors for video output to make sure it doesn't interfere with the UVC output)
 
leonk said:
I'm not sure how your video is setup or what arcade machine you're using. Here's my setup; hope this helps you solve your issue.

  • Arcade Machine is NAC with auto sync MS9-29A but I only use it in 15khz mode
  • Naomi 2 is setup for 480p/31khz output
  • UVC is setup to take the 480p signal from Naomi 2 and scale it down to 240p/15khz
  • UVC gets its power from the SUN PSU that powers the Naomi 2
  • wiring of video is as following:
  • Naomi 2 -> VGA short cable into UVC -> UVC output into Sega JVS I/O RGBS output pins bypassing the entire video signal of the JVS I/O
  • Capacitors on Sega JVS I/O replaced (some were leaking)
  • RGB processing on JVS I/O disabled: I don't use its video amp or input, its just passing the signal from UVC to the JAMMA harness directly (it's been a few years, I believe I removed the resistors for video output to make sure it doesn't interfere with the UVC output)
Click to expand...
Hey Leon, thanks for replying. Your setup is similar to mine. I believe the problem is isolated to my Naomi, I will go ahead and recap it. Not my favorite job as it has 55 caps onboard, but at least it will be fresh again, doesn't hurt. I have since completely calibrated my MS9, the B+ was almost spot on for 15/24khz, but I have recalibrated it using as low as possible RGB cutoffs and more SCREEN, and it looks brilliant now. The chassis is really good, except for a tiny bit of the beam being out of focus on the top left, but this only shows in a raster anyways, not too concerned with that. I am wondering however why you're using it with 15khz only? 24khz looks so much better imo :)
 
For the last 15 years, it's been mostly been used with my MAME setup where 15khz is the norm (JPAC, ArcadeVGA and then ATOM-15 firmware on ATI video card all running GroovyMAME) I never had a chance to try 24khz. :)
 
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