I don't think there is a 32ML500M-B.
32MN500M-B supports FreeSync, 32ML600M-B has HDR. I think that's more or less it for differences.
- Thread starter Hadouken Arcade
- Start date
32MN500M-B supports FreeSync, 32ML600M-B has HDR. I think that's more or less it for differences.
wigsplitta
Professional
Finally got round to installing mine, nice and easy to do 
Thanks for this @Hadouken Arcade it great to have a bracket that doesn't require any modifications to the Vewlix, in order to future proof it in the event of a monitor failure. (I didn't mod the monitor frame either, I decided to get some 3mm screws to avoid having to drill out)
A couple of tests fits whilst I was waiting for the monitor to get delivered:
And all done!
Thanks for this @Hadouken Arcade it great to have a bracket that doesn't require any modifications to the Vewlix, in order to future proof it in the event of a monitor failure. (I didn't mod the monitor frame either, I decided to get some 3mm screws to avoid having to drill out)
A couple of tests fits whilst I was waiting for the monitor to get delivered:
And all done!
wigsplitta
Professional
I bought a 32ML600M and 32MP58HQ (there was a 20% off sale on ebay at the time 
)
In a side by side test on my desk, I didn't see a preference, so I put the 32MP58HQ in the Vewlix, and am using the 32ML600M as PC monitor
) In a side by side test on my desk, I didn't see a preference, so I put the 32MP58HQ in the Vewlix, and am using the 32ML600M as PC monitor
PERFECTCOMBO
Beginner
https://amz.run/43aC Going to get this monitor wanted to know if the Rev C is the one i should get?
Hadouken Arcade
Professional
Yes, Rev C works. I have the exact monitor. Early rev will have to make a cutout. This monitor sits quite low so you won't be able to access the control thingy on the bottom of the monitor through the small cutout. Because the bezel is so thin I recommend applying the gasket on the glass instead of the monitor itself.
Hadouken Arcade
Professional
It really depends on what kind of tool you have. I used a Dremel but took forever on a aluminum version. Maybe there is a better way though. I would drill series of holes around where you want the cut out to reduce using a Dremel the whole time.
Got the kit and finished it up yesterday for my Vewlix L , worked out very nicely, just like wigsplitta, I just bought a 3mm screw and washer+nut kit and used the original metal casing and it held up perfectly. Didn't need to do any drilling to fit the 4mm screws. I left the glass intact on the metal frame, no issues with slamming hands on screen.
Edit:
This was Rev C of the mount and I used 32ML600M-B monitor
Edit:
This was Rev C of the mount and I used 32ML600M-B monitor
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For the ones that went through the new bracket, I used m3x16 (4 of them 2 on top, 2 on bottom, could not reach the middle, but it holds up well) , which clears the welded nuts on the mount and gives good spacing.
And to hold the frame to original metal brackets, m3 x 12 (10 of them) ,
I just bought a kit of assorted bolts and nuts since I needed some M4's to replace some faded bolts. it worked out for me.
This was the kit https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B086MC31JT , but be warned the Allen key tool they give in that package is pretty crappy.
socalcade
Professional
To anyone with a 32GK850F-B in their cab, did you use the gasket tape and/or the glass? There is basically zero bezel on the top or sides of this monitor. I just re-did mine, trying the 'gasket tape-on-glass' method, and honestly the glass blurs the picture so much that I'm going to take mine off. I just don't know if we need the gasket tape, and if we do, how did you install yours? Installing these monitors feels more like an art than a science, since the bracket is so generic. It's also a major pain to line up, in my experience, since the monitor positioning is the *first thing you do*, but you really need the monitor attached to the frame pieces before you can flip the assembly over. I really wish there was a way to fine-tune adjust the monitor without having to remove 12+ screws.
I have a 32GK850G-B waiting to go in. I wasn't planning on re-using the glass. Is it a pain to get the monitor centered in the opening with the tiny bezels? Any pics of your install?
mR_CaESaR
Champion
I don't think you really need a manual...
You loosen the screws, you line your holes to the vesa bracket of your monitor and then install back into your cab - you may need fine adjustments depending on which monitor your use. Once you're happy with placement, tighten your screws.
You loosen the screws, you line your holes to the vesa bracket of your monitor and then install back into your cab - you may need fine adjustments depending on which monitor your use. Once you're happy with placement, tighten your screws.
i figure isn't that difficult still i don't want to make any mistakes @Hadouken Arcade I think you had a mini tutorial somewhere?
checking back the thread now, I guess I'll ask questions as I go along dismantling the Vewlix.
checking back the thread now, I guess I'll ask questions as I go along dismantling the Vewlix.
You have to first remove the plastic upper side panels. It's just a few screws and you pull them off. Then loosen the top and bottom metal bezels (the screws are underneath the plastic bezels, hence their removal). Then remove the back panel behind the monitor and unscrew the monitor from the back. Be sure to unplug all the monitor cables and then pull it out.
socalcade
Professional
@Kaede I was supplied with https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_QW-RIMtHH7qm8ayJKZO1u5YOmO8NYzp/view as a manual.
In addition to what mattsoft said, you'll want to take the top set of speakers off as well.
My advice is get gooooood measurements of your vewlix's viewport and your monitor's bezels. Use that to figure out how much of a gap there should be on all sides. I did keep the glass in mine, but I don't love it and will probably remove it. Rest the bottom lip of the glass all the way on the bottom of the monitor frame, since it'll fall down there anyway when you put the enclosure back in the cab. I put the gasket tape on the glass facing the monitor, and then used some gaffer's tape (out of sight of the viewport) just for a little extra security.
@tonyt76 no pics, sorry, but my advice above applies. One hangup with our monitor is the back, shown here: link. that little nub that's for releasing the monitor from the stock stand will block the back bracket install. To get around it, I put four round furniture gripper pads like these to offset the height. The screws still reach down through the bracket and into the holes below. This way, you'll get a centered bracket install and nothing will bend or hang weirdly.
In addition to what mattsoft said, you'll want to take the top set of speakers off as well.
My advice is get gooooood measurements of your vewlix's viewport and your monitor's bezels. Use that to figure out how much of a gap there should be on all sides. I did keep the glass in mine, but I don't love it and will probably remove it. Rest the bottom lip of the glass all the way on the bottom of the monitor frame, since it'll fall down there anyway when you put the enclosure back in the cab. I put the gasket tape on the glass facing the monitor, and then used some gaffer's tape (out of sight of the viewport) just for a little extra security.
@tonyt76 no pics, sorry, but my advice above applies. One hangup with our monitor is the back, shown here: link. that little nub that's for releasing the monitor from the stock stand will block the back bracket install. To get around it, I put four round furniture gripper pads like these to offset the height. The screws still reach down through the bracket and into the holes below. This way, you'll get a centered bracket install and nothing will bend or hang weirdly.
