Otachi_R1X
Student
If anyone has another for sale name your price. I need one really badly!
- Thread starter Arthrimus
- Start date
Well all of the Console I/O V3.1s are sold. Thanks everybody, I thought I'd have stock for more than a day! If you still need a Console I/O I had a few of the older V3 model PCBs in my parts drawer, so I assembled those and added them to the listing on my website. The only difference between the V3.1 and the V3 is that the V3 does not have the second Auxiliary Button connector for wiring B7-B8 directly from the console I/O board, and the PCB is green instead of matte black. B7-B8 are still passed to the G Harness so you can wire them up that way, on the V3. I've discounted those boards to $39.99 due to the reduced feature set.
I intend to do another run in January. I do still have a couple of the V3 console I/Os if you need one and don't mind losing the option to wire B7-B8 directly to the console I/O
Happy to wait until the January restock
Great to see you are back! Can’t wait for the jamma kit
@Arthrimus Some questions:
* Does this also work with ps360+ ? Or only Brooks?
* It is stating my order is complete, does it mean it shipped? And if so are there any tracking numbers?
* Does this also work with ps360+ ? Or only Brooks?
* It is stating my order is complete, does it mean it shipped? And if so are there any tracking numbers?
Yes, it works with PS360 and any other PCB that uses the same 20 pin connector.@Arthrimus Some questions:
* Does this also work with ps360+ ? Or only Brooks?
* It is stating my order is complete, does it mean it shipped? And if so are there any tracking numbers?
If your order is marked as complete, then that means it has been packed up and has a shipping label printed. If you check you PayPal you should have a tracking number attached to your transaction. I've got most of the orders from the last couple of days packaged up and ready to go, I just need to drop them off at the post office.
Thank you, not used to these updates coming as paypal emails but seeing it now
Yeah, I do international shipping through PayPal because of how they handle customs paperwork. I haven't figured out how to link that to the website yet.Thank you, not used to these updates coming as paypal emails but seeing it now
UPDATE 1/10/24: I have replaced the firmware file in this post because there was a bug in that version's code that I did not discover until I was programming and testing the new batch of Console I/Os. If you have updated to the previous version of the firmware please download the new version and update again.
I should have another batch of Vewlix Console I/O PCBs available next week. The PCBs have been shipped from the board house, so I'm just waiting for delivery.
In the meantime I have been working on an update to the console I/O firmware to add the ability to properly control my RMAF remapping and autofire boards so you can use them with the Vewlix Console I/O.
When Jasen and I were working on the RMAF's design, we went with a different button combination for entering autofire and button remapping modes that we thought would be more reasonable on a modern arcade stick. The problem is that the new button combos require you to have a Start, Select and Home button wired up, which usually isn't the case with a Vewlix. The console I/O therefore could not properly communicate with an RMAF unless the user had an auxiliary harness wired up to physical buttons for home and select.
As of today I've added a special function to the Console I/O firmware that allows you to use the same button combos as the remapping chip in the Console JAMMAizer to control an RMAF connected player 1 and 2. The way it works is to take the Console JAMMAizer style input combo, and translate the output from the Console I/O to match the equivalent combo on the RMAF. With this functionality you can control all of the standard functions of the RMAF with no additional wiring from the Console I/O!
Button Combos for Console I/O with RMAF Installed:
The firmware file can be downloaded here
Load the hex file I provided into the "Flash" section of AVRDUDESS, make sure that the "Set Fuses" box is checked. Make sure your fuse settings are as follows
L: 0xCE
H: 0xD7
E: 0xFF
Do not put anything into the "LB" box
Your AVRDUDESS GUI should be look like this.
Connect your USBASP to the programming connector on the Console I/O following the pinout listed on the silkscreen. You don't need to solder a header onto it, you can simply use some dupont wires pressed into the holes at a slight angle to make a good connection. Then just hit program on AVRDUDESS.
Once programming is complete you should have a newly RMAF compatible Console I/O.
I should have another batch of Vewlix Console I/O PCBs available next week. The PCBs have been shipped from the board house, so I'm just waiting for delivery.
In the meantime I have been working on an update to the console I/O firmware to add the ability to properly control my RMAF remapping and autofire boards so you can use them with the Vewlix Console I/O.
When Jasen and I were working on the RMAF's design, we went with a different button combination for entering autofire and button remapping modes that we thought would be more reasonable on a modern arcade stick. The problem is that the new button combos require you to have a Start, Select and Home button wired up, which usually isn't the case with a Vewlix. The console I/O therefore could not properly communicate with an RMAF unless the user had an auxiliary harness wired up to physical buttons for home and select.
As of today I've added a special function to the Console I/O firmware that allows you to use the same button combos as the remapping chip in the Console JAMMAizer to control an RMAF connected player 1 and 2. The way it works is to take the Console JAMMAizer style input combo, and translate the output from the Console I/O to match the equivalent combo on the RMAF. With this functionality you can control all of the standard functions of the RMAF with no additional wiring from the Console I/O!
Button Combos for Console I/O with RMAF Installed:
- For Player 1 Autofire Mapping - Hold P1 Start + 1 Button for 3 seconds - Release buttons and wait 3 seconds then press each button the number of times that corresponds to the autofire speed you want.
- For Player 2 Autofire Mapping - Hold P2 Start + 1 Button for 3 seconds - Release buttons and wait 3 seconds then press each button the number of times that corresponds to the autofire speed you want.
- For Player 1 Button Remapping - Hold P1 Start + 2 Buttons for 3 seconds - Release buttons and wait 3 seconds then press each button the number of times that corresponds to the button map that you want.
- For Player 2 Button Remapping - Hold P2 Start + 2 Buttons for 3 seconds - Release buttons and wait 3 seconds then press each button the number of times that corresponds to the button map that you want.
- To Default the Current Profile for Player 1 - Hold P1 Start + 3 Buttons for 3 seconds - Release buttons and wait 3 seconds.
- To Default the Current Profile for Player 2 - Hold P2 Start + 3 Buttons for 3 seconds - Release buttons and wait 3 seconds.
- To Change the Active Profile for Player 1 - Hold P1 Start + 3 Buttons for 3 seconds - Release all of the buttons except the one that corresponds to the profile you want to select and wait 3 seconds.
- To Change the Active Profile for Player 2 - Hold P2 Start + 3 Buttons for 3 seconds - Release all of the buttons except the one that corresponds to the profile you want to select and wait 3 seconds.
The firmware file can be downloaded here
Load the hex file I provided into the "Flash" section of AVRDUDESS, make sure that the "Set Fuses" box is checked. Make sure your fuse settings are as follows
L: 0xCE
H: 0xD7
E: 0xFF
Do not put anything into the "LB" box
Your AVRDUDESS GUI should be look like this.
Connect your USBASP to the programming connector on the Console I/O following the pinout listed on the silkscreen. You don't need to solder a header onto it, you can simply use some dupont wires pressed into the holes at a slight angle to make a good connection. Then just hit program on AVRDUDESS.
Once programming is complete you should have a newly RMAF compatible Console I/O.
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Darkominator
Beginner
I have received my I/O PCB, but... it doesnt fit! My G connector does not fit on the pcb. How to solve that problem? I have a diamond orange, originally with usb I/O.
Its made to fit the more common Fast IO/JVS IO mounting plates. One option would be an acrylic adapter plate if there is enough clearance. I would offer to make you one, but I just dont have the time right now. Maybe another member can help you out with this, Im sure others might need to do the same.
Im not sure on the G connector, I would have to check my Diamond Orange cab to see if its different, I never looked into it, I used the other vewlixs.
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Hi darkominator!
If you have USB i/o, your connector is G1 not G... and you need this G connector for your console i/0.
Darkominator
Beginner
Oh yes right, i see a G1 (thought, thats the same 
. Anyway, could an adapter help me?
I'm certainly not the only one with a Diamond Orange.... I am very grateful to anyone who can help me.
Especially because we don't have a community for arcade cabinets like this...
. Anyway, could an adapter help me? I'm certainly not the only one with a Diamond Orange.... I am very grateful to anyone who can help me.
Especially because we don't have a community for arcade cabinets like this...
Maybe @Arthrimus can make an adapter pcb to go from the G1 to G connections.
Just went over my Taito manuala for Magiciana Dead, SF5:TA which both use the same USB IO.
The G1 harness is definitely wired different to the G harness, so you would need some type of adapter to use the G1 harness with anything wired to use the G harness found in the older vewlixs.
I might dabble into making one if I have time and can source the right connectors. I have a Diamond Orange and Black so I would like to keep my stock harnesses and not spend hundreds on replacements when a converter pcb should be relatively easy enough to make and should be fairly inexpensive.
But agree at this point replacing the G1 for the G harness will be the path of least resistance. That, or completely rewiring the panel directly with a brook, etc...
The G1 harness is definitely wired different to the G harness, so you would need some type of adapter to use the G1 harness with anything wired to use the G harness found in the older vewlixs.
I might dabble into making one if I have time and can source the right connectors. I have a Diamond Orange and Black so I would like to keep my stock harnesses and not spend hundreds on replacements when a converter pcb should be relatively easy enough to make and should be fairly inexpensive.
But agree at this point replacing the G1 for the G harness will be the path of least resistance. That, or completely rewiring the panel directly with a brook, etc...
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