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Vewlix Console I/O - Connect Brook fighting boards directly to your Vewlix.

Yeah, I snagged the last 3, that’s what happens when you have a bunch of vewlixs :D

I’m going to need more though, so definitely put me down for 2 more please.
 
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I'm thinking of getting 2 Brook Univeral Fighting Board on Ebay, but not sure which one. Do I get the one with Pin Pre-Added or without? Thank you in advance.
 
Hi @Arthrimus, I received the v2 of your I/O board, love the latest revision and looks like you have additional pad to possibly update the chip in the future?

I noticed you remove the home button emulation jumper. Is it still possible to turn off/on this feature?
 
The first generation I/O board didn't have a programming port due to the fact that it used code identical to the Console Jammaizer button emulation. Since I didn't need to do any debugging with that code I didn't need a way to reprogram the microcontroller once it was soldered to the board, but with the new version I wanted to be able to program them on the fly to help debug the more complex functions that the V2 I/O has built in. I don't expect to need to do any further updates to the firmware of the I/O, but if something did change the user could update their board with the new firmware, provided they have a USBASP or similar AVR programmer.

As for the Home/Select/ Touchpad button emulation, the physical jumper was removed and now it is done via button combo. Toggle the emulation function on or off by pressing and holding B1+B2+B3+Start while powering on the Console I/O.
 
Hey @Arthrimus, I just received my Vewlix Console IO v2 today (after a few days stuck in customs) and it’s great! I love how cleaner it makes the cabling in my control panel. Thank you so much for making these!

One question though: none of the start/option/touchpad buttons are assignable to the credit function in the PS4 M2 ports (Battle Garegga, Ketsui, ESP Ra.De.)
The only usable buttons would be L1/L2/L3/R1/R2/R3 (preferably L3 or R3).

What are our options here?
Could a firmware update make more buttons assignable?

[EDIT] The PS4 firmware allows buttons to be remapped EXCEPT for the options, share, home and touchpad buttons, so there is no workaround I can think of. That’s a huge bummer, as it makes the coin input unusable in the M2 games.
 
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The only thing I can think of is if you wired the Touchpad button header on the console I/O board to the L3 or R3 pin on the Brook board. Then you could set the coin to trigger the Touchpad button and it would press the L3 or R3 button instead.
 
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@VxD - I just keep a controller nearby and register it as P2 in another profile when i need it.

You can use the controller or the joystick simultaneously to control the menu once its initialized.
 
Arthrimus said:
The only thing I can think of is if you wired the Touchpad button header on the console I/O board to the L3 or R3 pin on the Brook board. Then you could set the coin to trigger the Touchpad button and it would press the L3 or R3 button instead.
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Ah yes, you are right! It's a simple cable swap, that will work nicely. Thanks!
Let me order a crimp tool and I will build a 4-pin cable over the weekend.
 
Free bump and update: on Arthrimus' suggestion, I crimped a small 4-pin harness to wire the P1 Brook board to the Touchpad button header on the I/O, but swapped the cables so a signal sent by the board on the Touchpad would actually trigger an input on the L3 button.
I then set up the I/O so a coin would trigger an input on the Touchpad button (and thus a L3 button press).
Finally, I changed the settings in all the PS4 M3 ports to register a credit on L3.
Works a treat, thanks for the great piece of hardware!

Next step: source a JST XH 6-pin connector somehow (my local electronics shop had 5-pin and 7-pin, but no 6-pin...) and wire the home and select buttons!
 
Just wanted to let everyone know that my board house is back up and running and I have just received a new batch of Vewlix Console I/O PCBs. These new PCBs will have a minor update compared to the V2 pcb. The only change is that the player 1 and 2 controller PCB headers have been spaced a few extra millimeters apart to make it easier to plug in the touchpad button wire for player 2 and the player 2 touchpad button header has been moved closer to the player 2 pcb.

owZGgC2.jpg


I will have these in stock on my site as soon as I get the remaining parts I need to put them together. Should be in a couple of days.

In the mean time I have 2 of the V2 Console I/Os available on my website now. These were test units from the development and debugging of the new microcontroller code for the V2 and they have been discounted accordingly. If you are not concerned about the minor updates on the V2.1 PCB and don't mind a few scuffs on your board you will be very happy with one of these test boards.
 
Hello,

Quick question to everyone. Where would be the best place to to connect the button 7 ground wire with out cutting any original wires or harness. I wired up button 7 to the G harness pin 43 your player 1 but now I’m clueless on the ground wire.

thanks in advance.
 
My questions is how do I make the Brook UFB load up automatically as Xbox360 controllers instead of Xbox One on a Windows 10 machine. I know I can hold down button 3 during boot to make it act like a Xbox360 controller but if I restart the machine and walk away they come back up as Xbox One controllers.
 
KingSopz said:
Hello,

Quick question to everyone. Where would be the best place to to connect the button 7 ground wire with out cutting any original wires or harness. I wired up button 7 to the G harness pin 43 your player 1 but now I’m clueless on the ground wire.

thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
I soldered it to the existing daisy chain of grounds on the original p1 harness. Did not cut anything just soldered to one of the quick disconnects and pulled the rubber back over it. If I had an extra disconnect probably would have crimped and replaced it..heh
 
nismopunch said:
I soldered it to the existing daisy chain of grounds on the original p1 harness. Did not cut anything just soldered to one of the quick disconnects and pulled the rubber back over it. If I had an extra disconnect probably would have crimped and replaced it..heh
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thanks for the reply , and thats what am trying to avoid is to do anything to the original harness. Whoop ill see was up.
 
Dreygor said:
My questions is how do I make the Brook UFB load up automatically as Xbox360 controllers instead of Xbox One on a Windows 10 machine. I know I can hold down button 3 during boot to make it act like a Xbox360 controller but if I restart the machine and walk away they come back up as Xbox One controllers.
Click to expand...
I think thats more a firmware issue for brook. I understand that you can manually switch modes which is fine. But, they should have given the user a way to set one mode an have it always behave that way on subsequent power ups.

I have not found the answer to this either, have you tried asking brook about this?

http://www.brookaccessory.com:20196/forum?majorId=11

I gotta message you later about more stuff :)
 
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