What's new
By:

FS Xed and Mirko repro Monkeyball banana and harness

For Sale
clam_wattson said:
Bravo, I slept on this thread and missed out on batch 1. Registered interest for batch 2.

Fantastic work,
Click to expand...
Aurich said:
I shared this project on Twitter and I'm getting a lot of replies complimenting your finish work. And well deserved, they look great.

PLA is kind of a pain to sand, are you doing a lot of hand sanding? I know you mentioned at least some. I can see from the photos you've posted that you're spraying a yellow and not just relying on the filament color, are you using some kind of fill primer, or is that smoothness all hand processing?

Curious if you guys thought about using ABS and vapor smoothing?

I'd honestly never guess these were 3D printed, you're doing the work to hide the crimes!
Click to expand...
Thanks so much!

1) Rough sand with 120 grit to remove printer artifacts.

2) 3 coats of White high build catalyzed primer sanding 320 grit between coats. Primer must be white, yellow is very hard to cover even light grey primer, so by using white I cut my yellow base coat coverage down by half

3) Wet sand primer with 400 grit, then spray with colour matched yellow automotive base coat. I spray the yellow then the green and brown, these colors are done with an air brush.

4) After the base coat dries, about 20 minutes, I spray 2 wet on wet coats 10 minute apart of catalyzed clear that I have flattened to semi gloss (these are not full gloss) When you hold them in your hand they truly feel like injection molded plastic, partly because of the slight reduction in the gloss.

I can post all the product and guns I'm using if people are interested. Maybe when I have time I can create a thread in the 3d printing forums on how to finish small plastic parts.
 
Last edited:
Ok so I build up the Gundam actuator to match the original 45.5mm. It didn't help. It still max out the reading before it hit the square gate. Only thing now to test is a new pot
 
Well I read my notes wrong. The og pot were 5k not 1400ohm. A possible fix is to add 2kohm resistor on pin 1 and 3.

I get the following reading
Gundam with modified actuator to match og
1D: 29
BA: 186
38: 56
C9: 201

Gundam with supplied actuator
0F: 15
C7: 199
19: 25
E1: 225

I only had 5% 1k resistor. I'm sure with the right value we can get them to match.
 
1st file is the Gundam pot. 2nd is the monkeyball pot
 

Attachments

  • 20211120_134709~2.jpg
    20211120_134709~2.jpg
    110.8 KB · Views: 138
  • 20211120_135228~2.jpg
    20211120_135228~2.jpg
    180.2 KB · Views: 137
Mirko said:
I can post all the product and guns I'm using if people are interested. Maybe when I have time I can create a thread in the 3d printing forums on how to finish small plastic parts.
Click to expand...
Please do! Your finish work is really making this an over the top product.
 
twistedsymphony said:
Found the Datasheet for Monkey Ball
Monkey Ball
RA25Y 20FB5K
https://www.tocos-j.co.jp/tocos-j-wp/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/RA25_Series.pdf
RA = Wire Wound
25 = 25mm diameter
Y = Temp range between -10 and 100 Deg C
blank = Panel Mount Type
20 = 20mm shaft length
F = Flat shaft
B = Linear
5K = 5K Ohms

Anyone know what brand the [M] logo is for on the other one?
Click to expand...
Matsushita

Cant find anything since Panasonic took over, or however they merged or changed names
 
based purely on the markings I'm guessing:
E1K 60 8987

E = Linear?
1K = 1K Ohm?
60 = 60 Deg?
8987 = ???

looking at my 2 Gundam sticks of the 4 pots there are 3 different markings. all of them have the E1K 60 but only 1 has the "8987", two of them have "03", and the other has "68".
So I'm guessing that last number is a lot number or date code; irrelevant to the specs.

Poking it with a meter it appears to be a 1K Linear pot... so I'm guessing the E = Linear.

If this is used as a voltage divider then I think the degrees could make a huge difference. the stick design only moves the pot maybe 20deg at most lock to lock. so it's only using a fraction of the 60deg range on the Gundam stick. if the Monkey Ball Pot has a shorter rotational range that would equal a lot higher positional precision.
 
Last edited:
Ok so here is what I got. The upper 2 pot control the centering. Resistor R3/5 (y axis) R7/8 (x axis) The bottom 2 does sensitive with it crank all the way down (50ohm) I max out just before the stop. I install the center resistor back to what they were and put a 52.3ohm (what I had on hand)resistor in R11 and R12. I get 18 in one direction and FE just before the stop in the other.

If you want it similar to original add a 2k resistor on pin 1 and 3 of the joystick and using the amp. If you want full range then 50ohm on R11 and R12. I have only tested this on my portable test bench with the Gundam joystick on my lap and it seem playable to me. @nnap can I get you to test as you are the only person I know with all the same stuff. If not it will be this weekend before I can test on a cab.

1s picture is with the pot. 2nd is with the 52.3 ohm in place of the original 100k
 

Attachments

  • 20211122_234521~2.jpg
    20211122_234521~2.jpg
    222 KB · Views: 126
  • 20211123_010518~2.jpg
    20211123_010518~2.jpg
    215.4 KB · Views: 135
Last edited:
Are you changing the design of the Amp Board? I was hoping for an exact replica of the original.
 
XeD said:
Ok so here is what I got. The upper 2 pot control the centering. Resistor R3/5 (y axis) R7/8 (x axis) The bottom 2 does sensitive with it crank all the way down (50ohm) I max out just before the stop. I install the center resistor back to what they were and put a 52.3ohm (what I had on hand)resistor in R11 and R12. I get 18 in one direction and FE just before the stop in the other.

If you want it similar to original add a 2k resistor on pin 1 and 3 of the joystick and using the amp. If you want full range then 50ohm on R11 and R12. I have only tested this on my portable test bench with the Gundam joystick on my lap and it seem playable to me. @nnap can I get you to test as you are the only person I know with all the same stuff. If not it will be this weekend before I can test on a cab.
Click to expand...
great find! Pulled out my banana panel and did some tests.

My baseline without the amp is:
LEFT: 26
RIGHT: DC
PUSH: 10
PULL: D2

when I replace the 100k with a 50 at R11/12 on the amp i get:
LEFT: 26
RIGHT: FE
PUSH: 10
PULL: FE
but FE is hit around 10-20% before I hit the endstop.

also tried with a 100 ohm resistors but that did not change a lot. Next I will try a 1K resistor to see if that brings the range back to where it does not max out before the endstop.
Will also try to 2k mod on the input side.
 
going up with the resistance was not the right idea :)
then tried a 10 ohm resistor but it still maxes out before the stick hits the endstop.
 
The 2k mod is only if you don't change the R11/R12. In the test menu does it read around 80 for H and V? Your centering maybe off. That is control by R3/5 and R7/8 Dragonminded repro use 3.3k for R3 and R7 and 1k for R5 and R8 @ 1%

I guess more testing is needed
 
Last edited:
good point, mine is 4.2K for R3/R7 and 2.2K for R5/R8. Took the readings off the original board but maybe it was offset by something. Was doing the measurements in circuit as I did not want to desolder stuff from the original board. Will replace the resistors to see what readings I get after that. The range is definitively not centered as I only hit the max value on the high end of the pot.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top